Stock Lug Nut Upgrade

[blackbetty14]

The torque values listed in the owners/shop manual are dry torque numbers, unless otherwise noted. By reducing the friction of the lugnut to stud by applying a wet compound, you are essentially reducing the Run-on torque and increasing the clamp on force. It might not be enough to cause an issue, but you are technically over torquing the fastener.

This reminds me of a story shared by a fellow aircraft technician. While building up Q400 aircraft wheels in the backstop, the required anti-size used for the wheel tie bolts was not available. The airline engineer was contacted, and promptly recommended an alternate anti-size product. The technician proceeded to assemble several wheel assemblies that day with the newly recommended anti-seize. Several weeks later, there were 2 catastrophic wheel failures upon landing. An investigation concluded that the wheel tie bolts had been over torqued due to use of the improper anti seize compound. The engineer neglected to look up the difference in friction coefficient between the two compounds, this difference was enough to cause a clamp force difference that ultimately caused a failure. The engineer was fired on the spot.

If you do insist in using anti-seize in your lugnuts, I would recommend torquing it to the lower end of the torque range.

While I agree that a wet lube will cause less friction and thus alter the tq value your missing a key point of friction that will go in touched. I've built a few engines (not two but more like 8) and these are all high performance V8s in the past 15 or so years. I'm very aware of tq specs changing with lubricants and I would stress that the use on certain things would require tq value adjusting. The main thing with the lube are its properties and how it's being applied. Say for instance the use of motor oil on a head bolts threads would require a slightly different tq value than that of a dry bolt. The same head bolt with a moly lubricant (not a standard antiseize) on the threads would also require a slightly different tq rating. But once you apply lube to the underside of the head bolt (and washer if used) would creat the MOST noticeable decrease in tq bolt rating. This is due to the HUGE amount of friction created at the head of the bolt to the mating surface and this is usually much more than the threads.

So to sum this up... applying antiseize to lug threads could result in a small reduction in tq spec (not enough to warrant a change) but if I also applied antiseize to the cone of the lug nut and the area it contacts the rim material then I would have decreased the tq value. Since I did not and no one ever does this doesn't create that much of a reduction in tq value and I would rather my wheels tight vs loose. Let's not even mention that wheel studs are rated at minimum 10.9 or grade 8 and they are a big ass 14mm stud. You couldn't snap that with 130 ft lbs if you wanted to. I tq all my 12mm wheel studs to 100ftlbs even with spacers.

I think your over thinking this honestly. Antiseize on the threads will make your life easier upon removal period. Ever have to burn a lug nut out when the wheel stuck on the car? Kiss the wheel goodbye.

 

[smiley]

I don't think I have ever needed anti-seize on the lugs only on the rim where it meets the hub. I would put it back there but don't see a need on the lugs personally.

 

[blackbetty14]

Well it used to be that lugs were open (not enclosed) so water and salt etc would get in there and make it very hard to get off. Enclosed lugs make it not a huge problem anymore but I do it just in case. Mainly it something happens and the threads deform or something the lugs would be easier to remove (vs stripping the lug or threads) if you had to get them off.

 

[grizzstang]

I have been using anti-seize on the wheel studs for 30 years or so and I have never had a wheel nut loosen off or have had a stud break from over tightening. If I lived in Florida or any other year round warm climate I wouldn't bother but since I live in Canada and see real winter and all the rust that comes with it I will continue to use it.

 

[ScottFL]

So after reading the whole thread and doing some shopping I opted for the McGard.

All of the McGard lug nuts are warranted not to chip, peel or rust for life whereas the Gorillas only offer lifetime for some.

My truck did not come with wheel locks, and I came across the McGard kit

The funny thing is if you were to buy the four pack of nuts Amazon has them for $24.14 but the kit which includes 16 nuts, 4 locks and a key with pouch on Amazon is $64.07; kind of a no brainer.....

 

[GIJoe2010]

I am a little confused. I want a set of 20 (to include locks, or 16 without) of 14x1.5 acorn 60* bulge black lug nuts by either Gorilla or McGard. I'm having a hard time researching the specifics here or on either of the vendors sites.

Any insight or info with correct model numbers would be appreciated.

 

[ScottFL]

I am a little confused. I want a set of 20 (to include locks, or 16 without) of 14x1.5 acorn 60* bulge black lug nuts by either Gorilla or McGard. I'm having a hard time researching the specifics here or on either of the vendors sites.

Any insight or info with correct model numbers would be appreciated.

If you have a 4th gen truck just use the links in my above post

 

[GIJoe2010]

Got it thanks

 

[mpicc84]

I got lost here...

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Auto...1&keywords=Gorilla+Automotive+M14+x+1.5+black

These are the Black Acorns that fit 2014's?

 

[GIJoe2010]

That's where I'm at too. I want the black lugs from either manufacturer but their own website is very limited or lacking when it comes to model numbers for lugs.

Money doesn't grow on trees so even $60 is tough to swallow especially if you have to return them and take a hit on a restock fee.

 

[mpicc84]

That's where I'm at too. I want the black lugs from either manufacturer but their own website is very limited or lacking when it comes to model numbers for lugs.

Money doesn't grow on trees so even $60 is tough to swallow especially if you have to return them and take a hit on a restock fee.

I'm 100% with you man, I pay enough monthly for this pig. (Purchased 0 down, and still negative overhang from last vehicle)

 

[Samsonlabs]

For those wanting black lugs Gorilla's lugs seem to be the way to go part# 66148BDX for bulk pack of 20 I got mine on ebay for 68 bux shipped.

20 GORILLA EX LARGE SEAT FACTORY STOCK WHEELS LUG NUTS 14X1.5 ACORN RIMS BLACK | eBay

they look awesome so far. Also got the black center caps as well, exhaust tips and antenna coming as well. BTW if you want to use locks they have a clamshell pack of 4 part# 66147BDX so you buy 4 and then 4 locks. Wheels like mine below take the 60° bulge acorn style. Gorilla list this as "factory bulge" The locks I believe are part# 96641BDX.

After a little search on ebay:

16-4-LOCK-GORILLA-LARGE-SEAT-OEM-OE-STOCK-WHEELS-LUG-NUTS-14X1-5-M14-RIMS-BLACK | eBay

if you are worried about fitment call the number they list at the bottom - my truck said it wouldnt fit on ebays compatibility chart but I contacted gorilla direct and they confirmed the factory 20" alloy wheels use the 60° bulge acorn. hope this helps!!!

I have a 2014 Ram Express Black

 

[GIJoe2010]

^^^^ This is what I was waiting for thanks.

 

[Samsonlabs]

Happy to help!! You'll love the new lugs esp when you take the factory ones off and see how crappy they are

 

[gustheram]

Factory lugs were garbage. I replaced mine with McGard Tough Nuts about a year ago when several of the factory nuts started to noticeably deform. When I made the swap, 3 lugs got stuck in the socket and had to be driven out. A forth almost took the socket to the garbage with it. That nut had a massive hole in the cap by the time I was able to get it out of the socket. Definitely money well spent. I have 32 lugs though so it cost me about $120.

 

[SportyJames]

Anyone put the chrome lugs on the Sport Polished Aluminum rims?
Pics.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[rocket]

I used an impact wrench on my lugs noticed right off the bat that my 22 mm socket wasn't fitting properly....so I used the gun for easy on/off but left the torquing to the torque wrench.........now off to flea bay......swapping mine out ,will post item number for 3rd gens.

 

[rocket]

26193 ht for 3rd gens I went with the spline design might leave the mcgard locks on....never know who carries around a splined key socket, least this way they aint coming off other than by me.

 

[Hemi395]

Thanks Rocket!

 

[69GWC]

Hard to see but I went with spikes..