Clutch fan delete writeup

So today I finally got around to installing a few goodies, and getting rid of some crap from my truck. I removed the factory clutch fan and factory electric fan, as well as the fan shroud. In place of all that I installed an electric fan from a 2011 Ram V6 and while I was at it, I threw in a 180 degree T-stat. I also have already installed my Billet Technologies oil catch can and there's a pic here of that. Additionally I got my VaraRam intake install pictures in here. Time for some pictures and a few notes as I go.

Here's a picture of the crap that I got rid of.



Removing all of that was fairly easy. The clutch fan came off by putting a #2 screwdriver through one of the holes in the water pump pulley and using a large crescent wrench to break torque (it is reverse thread). Once the clutch fan was removed, there's two bolts on the top of the shroud, one on each side, securing the shroud and the existing electric fan. Remove the bolts, push on the lock-tabs at the top of the "ears on either side of the shroud, and lift out the shroud, clutch fan, and electric fan all together.

I didn't take a picture of the fan before I installed it, but the install is very straight forward. Here is a link to the fan I used.

2010 DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 3.7L V6 Radiator Fan Assembly | RockAuto

I used the TYC 622320 and it fit perfectly. There were a few electrical modifications required though. First, I removed the temp sensor from the new fan, modified the little plastic piece it's on, and reinstalled it to block the hole it left in the shroud.









Once I got that taken care of, it was time to address the electrical connections. The stock connector has a nice little clip that holds the body mounted side of the connector to the shroud. I broke it off of the shroud, trimmed it down, and bolted it on with the new fan.



I cut the connector off of the old electrical fan, cut the connector off of the new fan, and spliced the old connector to the new fan. I used crimp connectors with heat shrink weather guard, and as a double measure I used some additional heat shrink over that. Never have to worry about water getting in. Then I drilled a small hole for a zip tie to secure the fan harness so it wasn't flapping around in the wind.





Next was the thermostat installation. As a general rule of thumb, I always drill a 1/16 hole in my thermostats so there is always a tiny bit of flow even when the thermostat is closed, and it does wonders for burping the system. If you do this, make sure you deburr the hole after you drill it. Also, 1/16 is plenty big, no need to do any larger.



Install the thermostat with the burp/bleed hole on the top side for obvious reasons.



After this, I reinstalled the radiator hose and started filling the system. All was looking good and once I had it full of fluid I started the truck. As the system built up some heat I noticed that the radiator hose kindof crept toward one of the braces on the new electric fan. At first I decided to use my angle grinder and just trim it down some, giving it a nice radius. As more heat soaked in, it was still too close for comfort, so I decided to use the 'ol zip tie trick and secure it so there wouldn't be any rubbing, leading to a punctured hose down the road.



Here you can see where I radiused the brace on the fan, as well as the zip ties.

Now it was time to reinstall the VaraRam intake and take a few pics.



With the stock airbox gone, there's TONS of room to easily get at the oil catch can. This is also the best picture I have of the V6 fan installed.



And dang, does that VaraRam intake look good.



After I was done up front, I went around back and threw on the Hellwig rear sway bar. No pictures of this one, sorry. It couldn't have been easier. 4 bolts, 2 nuts, remove old one, install new one. Done.

I took the truck out for a drive and everything worked great. I didn't have time to really go test out how it felt with the new sway bar, but I'm sure it'll be nice to have. The sock one was so lightweight they almost could've saved themselves the time of even putting one on. The Hellwig is a hefty piece. I'm looking forward to towing my camper with it. That's where I'm sure I'll notice the difference. I guess at this point I just need to get with Sean to have my tune revised for the new T-stat.

Great write up. 1 small thing...the Tstat already has a bleeder valve on it, so drilling the extra hole is not necessary. You can see the small brass valve under the brace on the left side of your Tstat pic.

Hemi450hp said:

Great write up. 1 small thing...the Tstat already has a bleeder valve on it, so drilling the extra hole is not necessary. You can see the small brass valve under the brace on the left side of your Tstat pic.

Click to expand...

Force of habit. I didn't even notice it. Not going to hurt anything.

Your description of the wiring was a clear as mud. I thought this thing was suppose to just plug in after you extended the wiring. I have been thinking about this since the day I got my truck and have never seen a step by step how exactly to do it, your description is closer than what I have seen but it's still not clear. I've not heard of anyone having to modify the fan.
I'd love to do this but can't chance burning up my truck out in the middle of the desert.
Please clarify if possible.

The connector on the new fan has three pins. It will plug into the existing body connector, but you'll have a third pin doing nothing. I decided to install the connector from the original fan onto the new fan just because I'm OCD and don't care to have a "dead" pin on the connector. Splice the two wires. Black to black and red to green. No need to worry about overheating, this fan pulls plenty of air.

Just to add, while you have the old fan out is a great time to go ahead and do an underdrive pulley while you have the room.

Ronan said:

Just to add, while you have the old fan out is a great time to go ahead and do an underdrive pulley while you have the room.

Click to expand...

I thought about this, but I haven't looked into it. Is it just a pulley that bolts to the balancer, or would I have to pull the balancer? If pulling the balancer is required, I don care to do it. If it's just a pulley replacement, gimme a supplier and part number.

Wild one said:

ATI Super Dampers for Chrysler, Dodge and Mopar Engines - including the new HEMI!

Click to expand...

Sounds like pulling the damper, not just changing a pulley. Too much hassle and money to get my interest.

jag1886 said:

Your description of the wiring was a clear as mud...Please clarify if possible.

Click to expand...

I'm sitting here and I can't stop thinking about this reply. "Clear as mud". Um, I provided fairly descriptive instructions AS WELL AS pictures. If that's clear as mud, I'd love to see your version of crystal clear.

Yes, this mod is talked about a lot, and it is a fairly straightforward deal. I complicated it by changing connectors and using the existing connector mount off of the shroud to keep it more "stock" looking. Sometimes you just need to use your imagination a little.

nickpohlaandp said:

I thought about this, but I haven't looked into it. Is it just a pulley that bolts to the balancer, or would I have to pull the balancer? If pulling the balancer is required, I don care to do it. If it's just a pulley replacement, gimme a supplier and part number.

Click to expand...

It is a new harmonic balance , with a pulley that can be changed to suit your needs (if you decide to go F/I) the stock pulley is not a balance!! The ati IS. I thought it was a sound mod as I ran my truck in the high rpm's a lot!! You will notice the quicker rev response as well , especially when losing the clutch fan. As far as difficulty, it isn't too bad. There are some tricks out. I locked a breaker bar on the crank bolt and against the frame and turned the motor over. Split second and the bolt was out. Then pull the pulley with a puller , and reassemble with an impact gun. I was a little scared , but it all worked out fine. And I definitely noticed a difference in snap of the rev. After this I was all out of bolt-ons, so it had to be done. I was happy with the results.

So the stock engine doesn't have a harmonic balancer?!?!

I know it's probably been talked about before, so please forgive me, but what's the purpose of pulling off the factory clutch fan and replacing with the electric one?

ramittome said:

I know it's probably been talked about before, so please forgive me, but what's the purpose of pulling off the factory clutch fan and replacing with the electric one?

Click to expand...

Less rotational mass on your crankshaft..

nickpohlaandp said:

So the stock engine doesn't have a harmonic balancer?!?!

Click to expand...

I just proof read that, the stock pulley is a balance ,I would assume it has to be,just not as good at high rpm's as ati. This is from what I have read here on the forums. Also note that there is no keyway to set timing...

Nick,
It appears we both have a love for zip ties-----
Jay

ramittome said:

I know it's probably been talked about before, so please forgive me, but what's the purpose of pulling off the factory clutch fan and replacing with the electric one?

Click to expand...

I posted this in another thread, but here it is again.

I have an aviation background so I'll explain it this way. If you are spinning a propeller with pitch "x" with a 350 HP engine and the max RPM you can turn it is 2300, that is because the air that the propeller is pulling is creating enough force on the blade to prevent it from going any faster. In recent years there have been great advances with composite technology, drastically reducing the weight of propellers, but no matter the composition (wood, metal, or composite) that 350 HP engine will only be able to reach 2300 RPM with a prop with pitch "x".

It takes power to turn a propeller (or fan). In this instance the gain is not so much from reducing rotating mass as it is from reducing drag. Drag is the enemy in speed and power, and it's not just related to aerodynamics.

If you want to get real crazy with it you can go down to every last detail such as dialing in your piston rings when building an engine by measuring and tweaking the static, breakout, and dynamic forces of turning the crankshaft after assembling the bottom end.

You didn't have to do anything with the programming? I've read some people do something with the ac fan trigger. Or did you just plug it in and go?

Mopar1987 said:

You didn't have to do anything with the programming? I've read some people do something with the ac fan trigger. Or did you just plug it in and go?

Click to expand...

Right now it's plug and go. The factory setting has the fan come on around 210 degrees. I'll have it changed in my tune this week. That being said, since I installed the 180 thermostat, and since I always run the AC (that keeps the fan on always), the temp hasn't gone above 185

cool. thank you