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bcja

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I have read all I can find on fan clutches, and I am still a little stuck. Been doing a lot of deferred maintenance over the last year (TLDR is/was my elderly father's, but now I drive it). I noticed a precipitous drop in fuel mileage after changing out the water pump and fan clutch (severe Duty GMB), but a few other things happened around the same time that might have had an effect.

Truck is a 2011 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 l Hemi, crew cab Outdoorsman 4x4. Stock as far as I know. About 146,000 mi. Viscous fan clutch, no electric fans (edit - the AC fan is there, I just hadn’t seen it). Before doing most of this work I had been towing trailers between Baltimore and Lower Alabama to move my dad and renovate his house. No real issues during that time.

This winter, before the big snow and ice storm and the weeks of freezing temps, I finally replaced the warped headers. That went well enough, though I broke a brittle evap line and had to make a new one using the old fittings.

While doing that I noticed the water pump was leaking. I ordered the GMB kit (with severe duty clutch) from RockAuto, on the recommendation that you might as well replace the fan clutch as well. I knew nothing about clutches at that time, this is my first truck. Good thing, as I could not get the old clutch off of the water pump. Had to get a new (Dorman) fan because I dropped the old one trying to get the new clutch threaded on and it was brittle, and the cowling also cracked during removal but I re-used that.

Even though temps were hovering around freezing, the clutch roared and would not disengage even after the engine warmed up. I ordered a replacement kit to return that fan, and also a new cowling. The new clutch was a little less noisy (maybe partly the cowling?) but still have the same noise problem and the fan not really disengaged even at lower temps.

Most of my driving now is in the city, and I feel like the mpg (measured by the truck) has dropped from around 11-12 to 8-9. It does do a bit better with extended highway driving. I've been logging data (there are no DTCs), and the LTFT is mostly in the 6-8 range which seems a little high, though in spec. O2 sensors seem ok voltage-wise (first sensors rapidly oscillating between 0 and 0.9 V). There is a difference between banks 1 and 2 (1 LTFT is 1.6% higher at idle, 7.8 vs 6.2%). I did not see any exhaust leaks with the home-made smoke machine, but not sure how much I trust it since I was pumping into the tailpipe. Plugs and boots were new last summer. I haven't messed with the fuel injectors, and I ordered an intake gasket kit and new MAP sensor for cheap and easy insurance (neglected to get one when I did the plugs). AC is not currently working. While smoke testing the exhaust I found a nearly broken ground strap which I sistered across the damage with some new ground strap I had. At this point I only expect marginal, if any gains in fuel economy from going down this route, but maybe I will be surprised.

Since I am not doing a lot of hauling or 4-wheeling, I am tempted to put a regular duty, or maybe just heavy duty, fan clutch in to try to improve mileage. Neither is spec'ed for this vehicle, so I'm hesitant. The other choice is to try another manufacturer's severe duty, like a Hayden, but from the posts I've read I'm not sure that a different severe duty clutch would be any different. Any opinions or suggestions would be welcome.

TIA
 
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ExpressRules

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I may be wrong, but I don't think a bad fan clutch would cause low MPG but what your saying is definitely lower then normal. From my understanding a bad 02 sensor could cause lower MPG through causing truck to run rich.

I did have to replace clutch fan when replacing the water pump on 14 and had new one bad right out of the box making it sound like a jet airplane on takeoff.
 
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bcja

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Thanks!

Yeah, the jet engine sound is what I’m dealing with. I’m on my second replacement already. Not sure getting another one of these is going to help - why I’m thinking at least another brand, if not a lower duty version. Because I got the kit, I can only get the same one again as a return. I’m not doing the water pump again just to switch clutches!

After posting, realizing I should have mentioned my temps are reading (pid) 5-10 fahrenheit below the new thermostat rating. That pre-dated the drop in MPG though. This is the second new thermostat - I thought maybe I bought a lower temp one last summer by mistake.
 

mdc1990zr1

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Thanks!

Yeah, the jet engine sound is what I’m dealing with. I’m on my second replacement already. Not sure getting another one of these is going to help - why I’m thinking at least another brand, if not a lower duty version. Because I got the kit, I can only get the same one again as a return. I’m not doing the water pump again just to switch clutches!

After posting, realizing I should have mentioned my temps are reading (pid) 5-10 fahrenheit below the new thermostat rating. That pre-dated the drop in MPG though. This is the second new thermostat - I thought maybe I bought a lower temp one last summer by mistake.
A bad temperature sensor will affect mpg in a negative way
 

Ken226

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Aftermarket clutch fans are notoriously bad. They stay engaged all the time, sound like a Pratt & Whitney high bypass turbofan, and will destroy your gas mileage.

For clutch fans, go OEM.

At highway speed running constant 3000rpm with that thing fully engaged, it's probably producing more aerodynamic drag on the engine than if each blade had a parachute attached.
 

EdGs

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^^^^This^^^^

My OE clutch was so bad, I could stop the blades with my hand at full hot.

Bought a replacement from NAPA, and it's a crapshoot when it will release, generally, it stays engaged when I start the truck at full hot, mostly.

It does disengage, but does not perform like it should.

Now that my coolant temps are great, I'm almost tempted to stick my OE one back in there. Not looking forward to dropping $3-400 on a new one but it is what it is.

I will live with the replacement for now, unless it gets worse.
 

EdGs

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Double post
 
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bcja

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A bad temperature sensor will affect mpg in a negative way
It's not too expensive, I was thinking I would replace it during this "renovation" cycle. Not sure it will make a huge difference, but with prices what they are it seems worth it at this mileage. Replacing the MAP sensor as well, mostly for the new o-ring but also it's cheap and likely worn.
 

EdGs

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For sensor, go OE. A bit more expensive, but our Rams don't play well with aftermarket sensors.
 
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bcja

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Thanks for everyone that has chimed in so far. You've convinced me that I really need to go MOPAR for the fan clutch no matter how much it hurts. It is the most likely culprit, with the biggest impact, and should bring peace to my wallet (at the pump) and my ears. I did find it for a few bucks less than others at MOPAR Auto Parts Direct, even with shipping.

I did a deeper dive into the fuel trims and O2 sensor data, it does look like there may be a leak. I have the new intake gaskets and MAP sensor on the way, and will pick up a coolant temp sensor locally. Also, the O2 sensors are probably original and look to be getting lazy. No DTCs yet. I will probably wait on those to see how the rest of the repairs affect fuel efficiency - plus I need to save up to replace the AC system.
 
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bcja

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For sensor, go OE. A bit more expensive, but our Rams don't play well with aftermarket sensors.
Hard-earned wisdom, no doubt.

For the MAP and Coolant I am going to try oem aftermarket with decent reputations. They are not a huge loss if they don’t work.

For O2, a lot of people online have recommended Denso for discerning ECMs, and they are a third or less than the MOPAR. Any experience with those?
 

EdGs

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Hard-earned wisdom, no doubt.

For the MAP and Coolant I am going to try oem aftermarket with decent reputations. They are not a huge loss if they don’t work.

For O2, a lot of people online have recommended Denso for discerning ECMs, and they are a third or less than the MOPAR. Any experience with those?
Only Denso experience I have is a radiator, and so far, all is well, knock on wood.

I just bought a coolant temp sensor for my '15, was $68 at dealer, part #5149077AB, not sure if same for your year.
 

mdc1990zr1

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Hard-earned wisdom, no doubt.

For the MAP and Coolant I am going to try oem aftermarket with decent reputations. They are not a huge loss if they don’t work.

For O2, a lot of people online have recommended Denso for discerning ECMs, and they are a third or less than the MOPAR. Any experience with those?
My 2000 Jeep wrangler OEM was NGK and I got them on rock auto. Sometimes rock auto lists the OEM manufacturer in their description
 
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bcja

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My 2000 Jeep wrangler OEM was NGK and I got them on rock auto. Sometimes rock auto lists the OEM manufacturer in their description
I ended up biting the bullet and ordering the DENSO O2 sensors anyway along with the Delphi coolant temp sensor to save a few bucks on shipping. All are listed as OEM by RockAuto. TS was 18.35, O2B1S1 was 39.79, and the other three O2s were 28.99 each. Shipping was about $8. The MAP sensor I got from them was also DELPHI. The NTKs were slightly more expensive at the moment, but from what I've read they are from the same factories and just wired up by the sensor brands.

With crossed fingers and knocking wood, this should be the last of the "deferred maintenance" and the truck should be in good shape until the next major interval. Aside from the AC, of course. Hoping a can of refrigerant will get me through this year.
 

hunterdan

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My guess is that the severe duty clutch you have, has very little slip. Meaning that it turns and pulls maximum amount of air at all times (hence the severe duty). I'd throw a standard duty replacement in its place, no need for a heavy duty or severe duty.
Screenshot_20260423-234835.png
That will 100% kill fuel mileage.
 
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bcja

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My guess is that the severe duty clutch you have, has very little slip. Meaning that it turns and pulls maximum amount of air at all times (hence the severe duty). I'd throw a standard duty replacement in its place, no need for a heavy duty or severe duty.
View attachment 583204
That will 100% kill fuel mileage.
Thanks, that is what I have concluded. I have gone from knowing zero to a fair amount about them in the last couple of months.

Given I’m on the second new clutch, and the resoundingly bad reputation of aftermarket clutches (even OEM), I decided to go MOPAR for this item. I’m not even 100% certain I won’t have trouble still, but it seems like the least risky path. I want to move on from this.

It does boggle my mind how such a widely manufactured product can be so prone to defect. It’s not like it’s a new technology.
 

hunterdan

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Thanks, that is what I have concluded. I have gone from knowing zero to a fair amount about them in the last couple of months.

Given I’m on the second new clutch, and the resoundingly bad reputation of aftermarket clutches (even OEM), I decided to go MOPAR for this item. I’m not even 100% certain I won’t have trouble still, but it seems like the least risky path. I want to move on from this.

It does boggle my mind how such a widely manufactured product can be so prone to defect. It’s not like it’s a new technology.
I deleted mine and went electric to save the wear and tear on the water pump. It's the fan and clutch that destroys the bearings and seals on the water pumps that leads to failures.
 

pacofortacos

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Map sensors rarely fail in reality, it isn't unheard of but much rarer than people think.
Usually when they fail, it is the baro read side - which throws it all out of whach - easy to see on a scanner.
 
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