2 ohm amp question

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I ran the e430's in my dash as well. Pretty easy install. I needed a new kidney so I sold those which covered the entire cost...jk
Something tells me the dynaudio and Audio Frogs are bit more than the OP wants to spend....considering the guy may have to buy a dsp etc to quarterback his front stage

I dont even know what a DSP is. Haha

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I still have my previous Hertz system (Hi-Energy 3 ways front and 6.5 coax rear) sitting on a shelf waiting for me to list it somewhere. Ran them biamped using Focal passive crossovers and a Bit One.

I should probably stop procrastinating and get them up for sale. LOL

View attachment 121739

Very nice! Is it the HSK XL?

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Hertz also makes 3.5" drivers. I have a set.

Could have sworn the only hertz midranges i saw were 4"?

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

I still have my previous Hertz system (Hi-Energy 3 ways front and 6.5 coax rear) sitting on a shelf waiting for me to list it somewhere. Ran them biamped using Focal passive crossovers and a Bit One.

I should probably stop procrastinating and get them up for sale. LOL

View attachment 121739

I guess my question is on a 3 way component set, do you run all 3 speakers off of just one channel?

 

[Eestee70]

Yep. Speaker input into the crossover or go active ( highly recommended) for this setup you would need a minimum of seven channels

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Yep. Speaker input into the crossover or go active ( highly recommended) for this setup you would need a minimum of seven channels

What do you mean by active?
I appreciate you explaining thanks.

 

[Eestee70]

Best way to explain it is, an active setup assigns certain frequencies to a specific channel and allows for a broader range for fine tuning you system through a DSP mainly. Each speaker has it own deticated channel. Example: channel 1= LF tweeter, channel 2= RF tweeter
Channel 3= LF midrange, channel 4= RF midrange, channel 5= LF woofer, channel 6= RF woofer, channel 7= Subwoofer. There are a lot of variable that go into it but this is the best way to simplify an explanation. Hope this helps.

 

[TomT]

I guess my question is on a 3 way component set, do you run all 3 speakers off of just one channel?

You can use a two channel amp running to the passive crossovers. The crossovers will split the signal into the three separate frequency bands going to the appropriate speaker. This would be running fully passive.

Another option (if the crossovers support it) is to run two amp channels to each of the crossovers. This is called bi-amping because you are running two amps (or channels) to a single passive crossover. In this case, one amp channel goes to the midbass and another channel to both the midranges and tweeters.

Both of these setups have the crossover AFTER the amplifier.

Going fully active means that you would put a crossover BEFORE the amps. That means you need a separate amp channel for each speaker. In most modern systems, this crossover is one part of a Digital Signal Processor (DSP).

A DSP will normally contain a crossover section, a time delay section, and an equalization section. Some are fairly simple and some are incredibly complex.

Hope this helps.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

You can use a two channel amp running to the passive crossovers. The crossovers will split the signal into the three separate frequency bands going to the appropriate speaker. This would be running fully passive.

Another option (if the crossovers support it) is to run two amp channels to each of the crossovers. This is called bi-amping because you are running two amps (or channels) to a single passive crossover. In this case, one amp channel goes to the midbass and another channel to both the midranges and tweeters.

Both of these setups have the crossover AFTER the amplifier.

Going fully active means that you would put a crossover BEFORE the amps. That means you need a separate amp channel for each speaker. In most modern systems, this crossover is one part of a Digital Signal Processor (DSP).

A DSP will normally contain a crossover section, a time delay section, and an equalization section. Some are fairly simple and some are incredibly complex.

Hope this helps.

It did help thank you. Wonder if i can just get a passive crossover for the midrange drivers? Or a passive 3 way crossover

 

[TomT]

Very nice! Is it the HSK XL?

It’s the HSK163 set. Three way with a 3” midrange that drops easily into the Ram dash positions.

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ertz-65-3-way-hi-energy-component-system.html

 

[TomT]

It did help thank you. Wonder if i can just get a crossover for the midrange drivers?

Maybe, but it would have to come from a three way system in order to not have it send too high of a frequency to them. Dedicated midrange speakers tend to do what is called “beaming” when they reach the highest frequency they are rated for. It won’t hurt them but can frequently sound like crap when it happens.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

It’s the HSK163 set. Three way with a 3” midrange that drops easily into the Ram dash positions.

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ertz-65-3-way-hi-energy-component-system.html

Nice. I almost bought the HSK XL component set. I might down the road, and move my rockford components to the rear.

 

[TomT]

Well, I’m obviously not using these anymore if you want to make an offer. My old system used the factory head unit going to an Audison Bit One DSP to a Zapco Z-150.6 and then a Z1KD for the sub. That was the biamped system with 4 amp channels used for the front and the other 2 for the back doors.

What you see in the picture are the three ways, crossovers and rear coaxials. The Bit One is not pictured but also available.

 

[autokraftgt]

The nice thing about going active is when you have the ability to cross your speakers over at any givin point in the frequency range, you are able to set your speakers up for 100% success. All speakers have a frequency range where the speakers is happy and comfortable playing certain frequecies. Tweeters don't like playing low etc... Like Tom mentioned, if a speaker (say midrange) is beaming at higher frequencies, you simply lower that speaker's crossover point so it doesn't have to TRY to play those high frequencies. Since all vehicles are different, manufacturers try to set their passive crossovers at intelligent, universally friendly points...sometimes it works perfect, most of the times it's not optimal due to all the different variables...that's why active is such a powerful option. When all speakers are in their comfort range, you can set eq settings more accurately, maybe run hotter levels on midbass, and safely run higher volumes while keeping all speakers comfy and reproducing music most accurately...sonic bliss. BUT, the need for all speakers to be on their own channel adds complexity, and cost......but good god is it worth it.

 

[sumgruuvz]

I still have my previous Hertz system (Hi-Energy 3 ways front and 6.5 coax rear) sitting on a shelf waiting for me to list it somewhere. Ran them biamped using Focal passive crossovers and a Bit One.

I should probably stop procrastinating and get them up for sale. LOL

View attachment 121739

What did you replace them with? I hope it was better than the Hertz speakers. lol

 

[sumgruuvz]

Could have sworn the only hertz midranges i saw were 4"?

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ay-60w-rms-dieci-series-coaxial-speakers.html

 

[TomT]

What did you replace them with? I hope it was better than the Hertz speakers. lol

Oh yeah, like I mentioned in a previous reply, I went overboard on the new system. LOL

Source is my iPhone 8+ via USB with files in lossless format.
Stock 8.4N UConnect Head Unit.

PAC Audio AmpPRO 4, AP-CH41 interface with Toslink out.

Mosconi 8to12 Aerospace processor.

Front Stage:
Tweeters - Sinfoni T25T in sail panels.
Midrange - Dynaudio Esotar e430 in the dash.
Midbass - Audio Development ESA Bass in front doors.

Rear Fill - Dynaudio Esotar e650 in rear doors. Bandpassed at 100hz - 600hz.

Sub - JL Audio 12W6V3 in a Net Audio sealed enclosure under rear seat.

Amps:
Sinfoni Esordio Solo Ad-Lib - 4 x 120w split between tweeters and rear fill.
Tru Technology Billet B41-S (Stage 4) - Bridged 2 x 300w to the midranges.
Tru Technology Billet B22-S (Stage 4) - 2 x 250w to the midbasses.
Zapco Z-1KD - 1 x 600w to the sub.

I just picked up a Zapco Z-400.2 LX to see if I can get better impact from the midbasses by doubling the power.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spe...ay-60w-rms-dieci-series-coaxial-speakers.html

I was wrong. The hertz midrange i was referring to is 3"
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/ar-audio-midrange-mille-pro-mp70-3/

 

[sumgruuvz]

I was wrong. The hertz midrange i was referring to is 3"
http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/ar-audio-midrange-mille-pro-mp70-3/

It's a 3.5". I looked it up on Hertz's website and it's actually just a c$%t hair under 3.5". They do fit as I stated I have them in my truck.

 

[sumgruuvz]

Oh yeah, like I mentioned in a previous reply, I went overboard on the new system. LOL

Source is my iPhone 8+ via USB with files in lossless format.
Stock 8.4N UConnect Head Unit.

PAC Audio AmpPRO 4, AP-CH41 interface with Toslink out.

Mosconi 8to12 Aerospace processor.

Front Stage:
Tweeters - Sinfoni T25T in sail panels.
Midrange - Dynaudio Esotar e430 in the dash.
Midbass - Audio Development ESA Bass in front doors.

Rear Fill - Dynaudio Esotar e650 in rear doors. Bandpassed at 100hz - 600hz.

Sub - JL Audio 12W6V3 in a Net Audio sealed enclosure under rear seat.

Amps:
Sinfoni Esordio Solo Ad-Lib - 4 x 120w split between tweeters and rear fill.
Tru Technology Billet B41-S (Stage 4) - Bridged 2 x 300w to the midranges.
Tru Technology Billet B22-S (Stage 4) - 2 x 250w to the midbasses.
Zapco Z-1KD - 1 x 600w to the sub.

I just picked up a Zapco Z-400.2 LX to see if I can get better impact from the midbasses by doubling the power.

You didn't spare anything, did you? That's some killer stuff you have in there. Very nice.