Adding (2) 10" Subs... Audio Guru Input Welcome

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heefageLA

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Ok guys. Ive got a short list of upgrades im about to try and tackle. Id like you Audio Gurus to chime in and tell me if im going in the right direction or not. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
Im not totally ignorant when it comes to wiring, but these newer vehicles make it harder and harder to to get the sound we're looking for.

1. Sealed Box for (2) 10" Subs under the rear seats. I emailed Ground Shaker and they said the floor cubby hidey-holes will still be usable, you just have to scoot the box back a little bit.


tdg210b-1_824093368.jpg

2. 1,200 Watt Amp - Includes Install Kit - Kicker CXA1200.1
• 600 Watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms
• 1200 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms


46cxa12001_bak42.jpg

3. (2) 10" Subs - Kicker 48CWR102 - Dual 2 ohm voice coils - With this setup I should be able to utilize the full potential of the amp.
• 400 Watts RMS
• 800 Watts Max


48cwr102.jpg

4. Line Output Convertor for Amp Signal - Audio Control LC2i

lc2i-blackblue.jpg

5. ANC Bypass Harness - PAC ANC-CH01
I dont know if this is the correct ANC bypass or not. I have the Alpine system. One of the Amazon reviews said you can access your speaker wires under the seat as well for the amp signal... "You can also access your speaker wires right there for an immediate hook up to an amplifier" ... I would love to able to leave my factory sub alone so if I ever get rid of the truck everything will be as it should.

anc-ch01.jpg
 

Graygoose

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If you used two 48CWR104, making it a 1 ohm, it will have more power.

Also the CXA have the FIT input, so you can take a direct high voltage input, no need for an LOC.
 
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heefageLA

heefageLA

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If you used two 48CWR104, making it a 1 ohm, it will have more power.

Also the CXA have the FIT input, so you can take a direct high voltage input, no need for an LOC.


Thats what im looking for! I thought that higher ohms gave a cleaner sound? That was the reason for using a higher powered amp over what the subs were rated for. I tried to find what the ohms were to get that 400 watt RMS rating, but Kicker doesnt say.

In another week or two ill be ordering everything and im trying to get all my ducks in a row. Its a nice relief knowing I wont have to fool with a Line Output Converter.
 

Graygoose

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Yea, no need for an LOC. They will take a direct input voltage .
Yes the CXA12001 and 18001, and 8001 will do about 20% more power at 1 ohm. Hardest part is finding a CXA12001, we go thru them LOL
 
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heefageLA

heefageLA

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Yea, no need for an LOC. They will take a direct input voltage .
Yes the CXA12001 and 18001, and 8001 will do about 20% more power at 1 ohm. Hardest part is finding a CXA12001, we go thru them LOL


Any info. on the ANC Bypass? Ive seen one more that only has two connections rather than the one above that has three connections. Ive heard that some folks have the ANC module in their steering wheel and some have them under the drivers seat... I do have alot of electronic stuff under my driver seat, but i dont know if thats part of vented/heated seats, seat adjustments or what...
 

Graygoose

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Yes, best to override it.
 
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heefageLA

heefageLA

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Yes, best to override it.

I guess I should have worded my question a little better. Sorry if Im hammering you for info.

Is that the correct bypass for my truck? I dont know if my ANC module is under my seat or in my steering column. I *think* its under my seat.
Also, can I get an input signal for the amp from that? I know the ANC is tied into the radio, but never thought it could be used for the amp signal input.
Ive always cut the wires the factory sub, spliced on a RCA wire converter, then used that for the amp input...
 

Graygoose

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Im not sure where the ANC is located, never had a truck with one. :)
But you can take speaker leads and turn into RCAs, and go right into the amp.
 
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heefageLA

heefageLA

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Im not sure where the ANC is located, never had a truck with one. :)
But you can take speaker leads and turn into RCAs, and go right into the amp.

Ok. Another crazy question. Whats your opinion on going with (3) 8" subs instead of (2) 10"s ?

Im going back and forth in my head. I could use the same amp. I just emailed Ground Shaker to see if the box could be built.
 

Graygoose

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You'll still have more cone area with two 10's, two 10's are about 157 sq inches, three 8's is about 150 sq inches.
Two things make a sub louder, excursion, and cone area.
Id take the cone area....two 10's.
 

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I have a very nearly identical setup I'm currently installing in my 2016 Laramie with the Alpine upgrade. I'm also using the lc2i (pro) and my question comes in the form of wiring it up since this is my first time using it.
I was thinking of tappig straight into the factory subwoofer wiring since RAM done most of the work and audio control confirmed that's where I should tap into, but I'm still not certain.
Since those wires come from the factory amplifier, it would seem like my wiring is going from Factory head unit to factory amp to Factory sub into line output converter and then to my aftermarket amp and subs. But a line output converter hence its name converts hi into low output so wouldn't tapping into the sub be redundant?
 

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