Engine chatter upon startup

[Arth]

Well my truck made a liar out of me today. When I fired it up everything sounded pretty quiet and normal. Truck had sat for two days before this start.

I am running redline 5w-30 with the royal purple filter. Going on a little trip this week so it'll sit for a few days again. I'll check it when we get back and see if I have that clatter again.

Here's the video of a good "normal" start.

 

[Ohio5pt7]

Dealer has had my 18 for a week because of this issue mine is intermittent though.

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[WhiteStar]

Well my truck made a liar out of me today. When I fired it up everything sounded pretty quiet and normal. Truck had sat for two days before this start.

I am running redline 5w-30 with the royal purple filter. Going on a little trip this week so it'll sit for a few days again. I'll check it when we get back and see if I have that clatter again.

Here's the video of a good "normal" start.

I think using 5w-30 has a lot to do with keep the lifters pumped.

 

[chrisbh17]

Ive gotten the issue on 5-20 and 5-30.

The only thing I can think of is air does not get purged if you dont drive it for a little bit, then on your next startup the air is still there and needs to be "pushed out" by more oil. The air is what causes that noise before it gets (quickly) pushed out by incoming oil.

Why the "air" doesnt occur after driving a while and letting it sit, I do not know. But I have even tried getting the engine up to about 2K RPM (under load...I just drive around the end of our cul de sac) when doing the "move from one side of driveway to another" and that didnt help either.

 

[William Hastings]

Dealer has had my 18 for a week because of this issue mine is intermittent though.

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Please keep us posted. When i asked my dealer to look into it, of course they said it was normal for the amout of miles on the oil, which was 4200 miles.

 

[DjangoDurango68]

Give Schaeffer's Supreme 9000 oil a shot. I run it in all my vehicles and it quieted my engines down a bit, makes everything run a lot smoother.

 

[Sherman Bird]

What precipitated this? Was it an oil change? Perhaps you have the oil changed at a quick change place?

My thoughts go to the quality of the oil and/or the filter. I'd recommend you figure out whether it is an oil issue or an exhaust issue as alluded in prior posts.

I always install a FL820S Motorcraft factory filter on 4.6 and 5.4 engines to prevent the exact issue you are experiencing. If you have an oil issue, try a MOPAR filter and make damned sure you are receiving a high quality oil that MEETS Manufacturer's specifications! Good luck!

 

[WhiteStar]

What precipitated this? Was it an oil change? Perhaps you have the oil changed at a quick change place?

My thoughts go to the quality of the oil and/or the filter. I'd recommend you figure out whether it is an oil issue or an exhaust issue as alluded in prior posts.

I always install a FL820S Motorcraft factory filter on 4.6 and 5.4 engines to prevent the exact issue you are experiencing. If you have an oil issue, try a MOPAR filter and make damned sure you are receiving a high quality oil that MEETS Manufacturer's specifications! Good luck!

It's been doing it since I bought it a few months ago.

The second video is after the oil change using a Wix Xp Filter and Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-20.

It has picture of a Ram truck on it! https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/gas-truck-synthetic-engine-oil.html

Lot's of moly in the additive package and meets the Chrysler oil spec MS-6395

 

[buddy guy]

so..if the truck is cold and makes the noise..and its warm and doesn't when you restart a few seconds later, wouldn't that pretty obvously say oil drain down from the lifters is the originating issue? likely precipitated by the weight of the oil?

 

[J's_Sport]

so..if the truck is cold and makes the noise..and its warm and doesn't when you restart a few seconds later, wouldn't that pretty obvously say oil drain down from the lifters is the originating issue? likely precipitated by the weight of the oil?

Yep, I have shut it down and restarted right back up and it was a normal quiet startup. I have another year left on the Powertrain warranty and I will more than likely be switching to RL 5w-30. My truck has done it since new and have 44,1xx miles on it now. All with dealer oil changes. For the next year I will be using PUP with a wix xp filter.

 

[jake4401]

Dealer has had my 18 for a week because of this issue mine is intermittent though.

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Lol they have had mine for 4 months


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[TomB 1269]

On these Hemi engines the valve lash isn't adjustable, that's what the hydraulic lifters are for. But if they bleed down too much it creates excessive clearance causing damage.

This is correct, however there is "pre-load" which would tend to be a highly suspect IMO with as new a motor as ours. The 3000 mile range is just past or right at what in the old days would be considered the break-in period. It is one of the reasons I just like "whitestar" changed the oil in the motor. My question is did we do something that should not have been done (my was done by dealer at my request). Is it possible that the oil in the engine at delivery has additives that provide better impact protection and allow particularly the valve train more time to break-in and become "heat-treated" thru operation? I have only heard this a handful of times on my 2019 classic, however it the very 1st time was just after having the oil changed. I am wondering if there is some preload deviation, along with minor leak down and possible slightly higher wear that is causing some to experience this issue.

PS, up until mid-May I had to actually use the key to start as I did not have a remote starter, and can be absolutely sure the engine never "ticked" at startup.

I hope that RAMCAREs is really taking note and that something will be done. I got this truck with the intent of having it the next 10 plus years, and well over 100K on the clock. However, I did pick it up under a lease deal as they were giving them away IMO. So I will see how she ages over the next 3 years/36K. I like her an awful lot, but I just came off of owning Fords and have gotten tired of paying to make repairs that were in all reality factory defects, 2005 F150 trany & spark plug extratraction, 2006 Freestar torque converter, 2002 ranger synchronizer, rear shackles, fuel pump. All occurred in the 120 to 130k range. I do not expect a vehicle to last forever, but we all know that today's engines are more than capable of making 150K without issue and only normal maintenance, i.e. oil changes, spark plugs, air / fuel filters, brakes.

RAM let us see a better more proactive customer service response, verse the inevitable class action methodology Ford uses.

 

[DamnRam1500]

I’m so conflicted as to what to do. My 2016 with 47,*** miles has sounds just like the previous 2-3 videos. Clicks loudly at cold start and goes away quickly.

It has only done it 3 times in the last month or two but being at the end of my lease and having no choice but to buy out the lease because I’m WAY over my mileage and I don’t want to undo everything I’ve done to the truck, I’m rather terrified of buying it.

I have an appointment for the dealership next weekend to check the bolts but if they can’t replicate it and say bolts are fine them I’m up **** Creek with out a paddle it seems.

Where do you guys buy this redline oil and is it now recommended to use 5w30 not 5w20?

I’ve used nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic 5w20 since the first oil change.

The only thing that has changed recently is I’ve used a Fram filter for the last 2 oil changes vs mopar.

 

[buddy guy]

I’m so conflicted as to what to do. My 2016 with 47,*** miles has sounds just like the previous 2-3 videos. Clicks loudly at cold start and goes away quickly.

It has only done it 3 times in the last month or two but being at the end of my lease and having no choice but to buy out the lease because I’m WAY over my mileage and I don’t want to undo everything I’ve done to the truck, I’m rather terrified of buying it.

I have an appointment for the dealership next weekend to check the bolts but if they can’t replicate it and say bolts are fine them I’m up **** Creek with out a paddle it seems.

Where do you guys buy this redline oil and is it now recommended to use 5w30 not 5w20?

I’ve used nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic 5w20 since the first oil change.

The only thing that has changed recently is I’ve used a Fram filter for the last 2 oil changes vs mopar.

recommended by who? by a lot of people here, yes. by dodge? no, because of the MDS apparently and warranty may not be honoured if you use a "wrong weight" oil. if i was out of warranty and had to keep it, i definitely would be switching based on what people hafve said here. the exact recommended combo of the royal purple filter and redline oil...and see how it likes it. its sounding like you are currently out of warranty? if i'm misreading that and you still do have bit of warranty, i'd get the process started asap to investigate it by the dealer..and possibly another dealer if the first says its normal.

 

[chrisbh17]

At minimum at least get it on record with a dealer. Even if they say "normal", at least have a work order that shows you brought it in for the noise and they resolved it as "normal".

If FCA ever decides they actually want to fix it (pretty sure they will NOT because imagine all of the reimbursing....) then you could say "hey look I brought it under warranty and was told its normal, which it is NOT, now fix it".

As far as oil weight goes....they would have to send a sample for an oil analysis. Would they do it? Not sure, but my guess is no (sounds too much like work lol). Ive spoken to my service advisor and shop foreman a couple times and they said if the engine looks like it was maintained, thats 75% of getting approval to fix whatever needs to be fixed. The other 25% is FCA asking the dealer for proof and the dealers opinion. So, pics of under your valve covers and the dealer telling them the engine is maintained means you are most likely good to go.

And as far as 30 weight...well, up until 2017, the owners manual even said you could use 30 weight if 20 wasnt available. Considering our current Hemi has not changed in who knows how long, pretty sure 30 weight all of a sudden didnt become insta-death to the engine between MY16 and MY17.

 

[buddy guy]

i agree with everything you said, and i buy that running 30 weight is not going to hurt our engines at all. but if it's warranty..or not, things are totally different. i don't know the 2 dealers i've dealt with well enough to know how they would react if they found out i ran 30 weight in it. but its moot for me as i don't do/won't do my own oil changes anyway while its under warranty.

 

[Ramman18]

It sounds like broken manifold bolts. Easy fix.

 

[HammerHead]

My 15 has done this since new but it wasn’t very common until recently. I have found that I can make it happen every morning. I have 1 year left on the Powertrain warranty and I am getting super frustrated. The dealer says they can’t find anything wrong. When I brought the noise up they instantly said it was the manifold after I thought it was lifter bleed down clatter.

Start up chatter that bad tells me your engine is unhappy with your oil selection.
What oil and oil weight are you running?

 

[HammerHead]

This is my truck after startup. I’m not sure if that’s lifter or manifold bolts but it doesn’t sound great. Anyone else’ sound like this?

That is the HOT idle tick and is by Far worse than startup chatter. You need a 30 weight oil in that Immediately, Redline 5w30 is recommended.
No lie, dump that oil and step up in weight before one of your lifters eats the cam.

 

[Garce421]

That is the HOT idle tick and is by Far worse than startup chatter. You need a 30 weight oil in that Immediately, Redline 5w30 is recommended.
No lie, dump that oil and step up in weight before one of your lifters eats the cam.

I’m going to bring the truck in but will keep the recommended oil in it. Truck is under warranty and I get that people feel better because they can’t hear a tick anymore after switching oils, but if there is damage already done a heavier oil won’t change that. It’s a bandaid fix and a false sense of security if the cam lobes are already scored and worn down. The pictures I’ve seen on here show damage to the lifter as well that can’t be reversed by changing oil weight. I’d rather have it go completely and let Ram fix it than just try to quiet a part that is already damaged.