Ticking in the engine...

[knightjp]

Sorry to hear about the Cam.

Well at the moment we are not sure that the cam will need to be changed. However it is sure that the lifters need to be looked into.

 

[Mister Luck]

Dubai weather can be brutal

Does the tick happen on a cold engine then go away ?

Sounds like it’s coming from cylinder #1
I would avoid driving it until it can be looked at

One time I used a little too much anti-seize on my plug threads and climbing a long hill the plug vibrated loose and popped out I didn’t have my tools and I was in the middle of nowhere didn’t want to drive it because of the imbalance of the firing order
it made a horrible racket though

 

[LeesEvoX]

Well at the moment we are not sure that the cam will need to be changed. However it is sure that the lifters need to be looked into.

Change your camshaft! You are going through all the effort to replace lifters. You might aswell put a new cam in there.

Just picture everytime you hear a tick, that is a very small piece of your cam wearing down.

Plus there is only 1 camshaft in these things. It would be a piece of cake

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[knightjp]

Dubai weather can be brutal

Speaking from experience?

Change your camshaft! You are going through all the effort to replace lifters. You might aswell put a new cam in there.

You're probably right. Might as well change the camshaft for the peace of mind.

 

[daveray9]

That sux man, keep us posted. Agreed sounds like lifters... manifold bolt ticking goes away after the engine has warmed up. 5 minutes tops.

 

[Nova John]

Sounds like a cam and lifter problem. That would explain the noise all of a sudden. I have been using Penzoil Ultra Platinum, 4 quarts of 5/30 and 3 quarts of 5/20 and 10 oz on lubeguard biotech molly additive( Can get on Amazon pretty cheep). This winter I am going to try 0/20 or 0/30 to quiet down piston slap when really cold. I have 109,000 miles and runs great. Redline is the best but expensive. With PUP and moly additive I have about 225ppm of moly according to Blackstone labs. also change oil at 4,200-5,000 miles and use Wix xp filters. Good luck getting your hemi fixed. Also a good time to upgrade cam. I wouldn't drive it much as you don;t want metal from cam in motor. I also use a filter magnet. Sure Burla will chime in, he is the Hemi expert on here.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

This could be one of the more rare failures where the mds pin won't engage on the lifter. Meaning it probably still has a roller that rolls and the cam is ok. It wouldn't cost too much to have the head removed and check the lifters. At that point the cam can also be checked and saved by a new lifter. Don't drive it with that noise.

 

[mtwofeathers]

Yeah looks like that is a lifter problem.

The 5.7l Hemi has earned a pretty bad reputation for failing lifters. Eventually they will wear down the lobe on the camshaft. It can cause some pretty bad damage if left un checked.

Time to pull the heads!!!

I wish my engine was that quiet. I put heavier springs to prevent floating at 4,000 rpm so I can nudge more speed out of my 6 cyclinder. Those springs make it clack pretty loud. And thats on top of it being a disel

 

[knightjp]

I wish my engine was that quiet. I put heavier springs to prevent floating at 4,000 rpm so I can nudge more speed out of my 6 cyclinder. Those springs make it clack pretty loud. And thats on top of it being a disel

Diesel?.. I'm guessing you got one of the EcoDiesel trucks. How is it in terms of reliability?

 

[Desertdawg]

Thanks a lot for the info. This has been extremely helpful. It is a shocker that FCA would prescribe a thinner oil in their manuals. Perhaps its oversights like this give them their horrible track record with reliability.

 

[Desertdawg]

My '12 hemi tic was called "normal" by the dealer in Tucson, AZ. I bought the extended warranty (at 95k) that they insisted on. Good thing, it blew up at 101k!! After a 3 week fight with Veritas Global, they finally agreed to pay around 65% for a new long block. It has a 50k warranty so I'm cancellin6the worthless one. Will get back some $$. BTW, Redline oil did nothing to reduce the noise, so if it doesn't help yours, get it looked at immediately.

 

[scott lass 18]

sounds loader then mine it was a exsate pipe had to replace now the other side is doing it 60,000 on her

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

You for sure have the roller jammed in the lifter because the needle bearings went south into the Abis down under, Its either #1 or #3, Shut it down before you do valve damage don't run it.

 

[knightjp]

For the moment, the truck is with my mechanic. He will be tearing down the engine to make sure that everything is OK, replace what needs to be replaced and then from here on, we will be using Redline 5W30 and no other. I want to see this engine cross 1 million. LOL.

I met a guy who just got a 2019 Laramie and I advised him NOT to use the Mopar 5W20 like the manual says and to use Redline 5W30.

 

[Alweeja]

From the factory FCA specs out 5W20. So right off the bat you are using thinner oil. (At least in the USA).

People have good luck with Amsoil. but Redline has been named "HEMI Honey". because it works so well. Looking at the Redline website there are two dealers in Dubai.

Atomic auto spare parts trading LLC
Al Quoz Industrial area 2, 26th road PO Box 410688
Dubai, Dubai, 410688
+971 4 358 0877

or

Hercules Group, UAE
PO Box 4756
Sharjah, Sharjah, 4756 SHJ
+971 6 744 4131

Good to know>....WHY?

 

[LeesEvoX]

Good to know>....WHY?

Why what?

if you are talking about why Redline works well in these engines. It is because of the additive package, and stuff like shear temperatures. @Burla is the expert on this. But i suggest you look into the Synthetic oil thread to learn a lot more.

 

[knightjp]

Is it safe to say that Redline is the best for the HEMI engines?

 

[Burla]

Why what?

if you are talking about why Redline works well in these engines. It is because of the additive package, and stuff like shear temperatures. @Burla is the expert on this. But i suggest you look into the Synthetic oil thread to learn a lot more.

High oil soluble moly creates a plate for dry starts, paired with esters and pao that are mciro lubrication that can survive heat better then group 2/3 oils. These features of redline are rare in most oils, and w/o any doubt has helped many rams.

As Dessert Dawg has experienced, it isn't a 100%, but it is the best we got.

 

[Burla]

Is it safe to say that Redline is the best for the HEMI engines?

It's proven it's bones as a great choice, the term "best" is relative.

 

[knightjp]

It's proven it's bones as a great choice, the term "best" is relative.

Well considering that I have been told on this thread Redline has a nickname "Hemi Honey", I assumed that it was the best. But you're right. I guess it is all relative.

I'm looking for the "synthetic oil thread" to read through for advancing my knowledge. Can't seem to find it. Does anyone have a link?