Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Burla

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Does anyone know if there is an atsm for stay in grade viscosity and if so the number?
 

Hemi395

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So 0w20 valvoline works, so did 0w40 amsoil, but 5w30 amsoil was the worst tick oil? I freaking surrender, lol. I got nothing. All I got was maybe the engine needed a break in that is recieved over the last decade, so now just maybe even 5w20 pp wouldnt tick as bad? It's either that or it's the moly., so looking forward to hearing how it goes. 4k miles oci? I'm sure first tow trip this summer you will have some thicker oil.
LOL ok so the Amsoil 5w30 was the old SN formula which had less moly than the 0w40 Amsoil which was the new SP formula. So I'm assuming thats the difference?

My full list of OCIs is on this post (up to that point) https://www.ramforum.com/threads/synthetic-oil.27664/page-877#post-1552141

I mean the only other thing is I've been running RL for so long that its left a residual residue that just takes several thousand miles to be "washed" away by the inferior oil? Other than that I got nothing either, I fully expected to get a week out of this oil and be pouring RL 5w30 in.
 

Hemi395

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I think the added timing chain wear requirements for SP may be helping our tick? Just throwing ideas because I legit have no explanation otherwise
 

Burla

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I think the added timing chain wear requirements for SP may be helping our tick? Just throwing ideas because I legit have no explanation otherwise
For that to be true the theory would have to be gf-5 had more timing wear then gf-6. So the timing wear "issue" that postponed gf-6 for so long I personally thought was specific to the new gf-6 formula and nothing to do with gf-5 lacking in this area. I however would be thrilled if that is wrong thinking, I just don't know. Anyone have more info on this? I had a hard time looking up those circle graphs for when api formulas advance, that might tell us if true. Example, you can see dexos graphs with each formula advancement. I dont see a specific "timing chain wear" spot for dexos. Look at gf-6 on wear, we need to see a graph like this with gf-5, the other day I couldnt find one easily. Interesting dexos is above gf-6 in this area. I cant imagine they would release an oil worse in one catgory for the next spec, but they might change the rules to make it pass, who knows on that.

If that valvoline was dexos 3, as you can see they say better then gf-6, and most likely that also means better then gf5. so your theory is possible

dexos.png
 

Burla

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So that bottle didnt have dexos badge, but the 0w20 posts dexos 1 gen 3 as truth on their stat sheet. Kinda crazy they dont have a picture of a bottle with no dexos badge.
 

Burla

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Even dexos 1 gen 2 has better wear minimum then gf6, which is why most smart manu's don't make their own specs, they just say use dexos, which everyone should have done hint fca/stellantis. Many companies use atf 4 as their tranny spec, that you can thank fca for, good stuff, but ms6395 is more of a joke few care about. Dexos is the standard, it might have to do with real world testing for so long, but also it might have to do with no teeth, you see dexos stands tall.
 

CanuckRam1313

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Ive read on the facebook groups of people having positive experiences with running rotella 15w40 so i would assume you would be fine with HPL 15w40. Cant comment on the 5w50 though.
I know this isn't necessarily the same comparison, however, I had a 2006 SRT 300C with the 6.1 and with the OEM recommended 0W40 synthetic oil I used there was a pretty defined whine, like that of a supercharger, caused by the oil squirters.

I went to 20W50 synthetic and it went quiet as a church mouse, even at full operating temp and tracking her for several runs down the strip.
 

Burla

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0w40 is basically 5w30 when talking about otc 0w40's. you have to ask why manu's didnt spec 5w40 or even 15w40, in theory all 3 should be in the same range while operating. Manu's have designed modern 0w40 to be 5w30's, been discussed here quite a bit.
 

Travis8352

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0w40 is basically 5w30 when talking about otc 0w40's. you have to ask why manu's didnt spec 5w40 or even 15w40, in theory all 3 should be in the same range while operating. Manu's have designed modern 0w40 to be 5w30's, been discussed here quite a bit.
It looks like mobil has reformulated FS 0w40. More pao, higher viscosity now 13.5 vs i think 12.9? Slight change. Api SP now so im assuming a calcium/magnesium detergent package. Havnt seen it in the wild yet
 

Burla

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Good info and thanks for that, and good news as well. But yeah, small move for visc, but with pao likely will stay in grade longer. They have basically 3 full points higher if they so chose to make it thick like amsoil.

206.9<9.3
309.3<12.5
4012.5<16.3
5016.3<21.9
 

knightjp

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It looks like mobil has reformulated FS 0w40. More pao, higher viscosity now 13.5 vs i think 12.9? Slight change. Api SP now so im assuming a calcium/magnesium detergent package. Havnt seen it in the wild yet
I wonder what formula is the one that we get here. Mobil1 0w40 is one of the common ones that are always kn stock here.
Not knowing the proper formula, I would be hesitant to recommend it to someone facing the tick. Right now, my answer advise to any HEMI user here in Dubai would be to run Redline 5w40 for two oil changes at short intervals and then Redline 5w30 from thereafter.

As for me, I'm experimenting... So I will be using HPL 15w40 for now and then HPL 5w30 during the cold weather and in the hot summer months, I will choose to run HPL 15w40 or Redline 10w40.
 

Travis8352

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I wonder what formula is the one that we get here. Mobil1 0w40 is one of the common ones that are always kn stock here.
Not knowing the proper formula, I would be hesitant to recommend it to someone facing the tick. Right now, my answer advise to any HEMI user here in Dubai would be to run Redline 5w40 for two oil changes at short intervals and then Redline 5w30 from thereafter.

As for me, I'm experimenting... So I will be using HPL 15w40 for now and then HPL 5w30 during the cold weather and in the hot summer months, I will choose to run HPL 15w40 or Redline 10w40.
The m1 FS 0w40 is the same product world wide. It is loaded with european approvals and it will do the job just fine as it still has the a40 porsche approval. If anything it got better as it usually does. That same oil is run in 24hr endurance races around the world. IMO its mobils finest motor oil
 

knightjp

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The m1 FS 0w40 is the same product world wide. It is loaded with european approvals and it will do the job just fine as it still has the a40 porsche approval. If anything it got better as it usually does. That same oil is run in 24hr endurance races around the world. IMO its mobils finest motor oil
I would wait till someone has done a uoa on this new m1 before I would take the plunge into using it on my truck. In addition, I need to know how to spot that I'm buying the right one. For all I know dealers here may try to pass off the old stock rather than the new one.
Right now the goal is addressing the tick in such a way, it doesn't come back.
I am thinking of experimenting, but I really don't want to make the tick worse by using something that theoretically isn't going to work. I know I'm taking a chance with HPL, but from the reaction that I'm getting from those on here, it sounds more like a sure thing than M1 at the moment.
 
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