nlambert posted good pics of what your door jam stickers should look like and what info should be on there.
Chances are, with a Limited, you are going to have a low payload number and therefore a low tow rating. What they are I can't say without seeing your stickers.
That said, what are you looking to pull? If you're looking to pull an enclosed trailer or a flatbed, you can play with the load to get the numbers at least close for a good pull. If you're looking at an RV, do NOT listen to the salesman, they are going to work off the 'max' numbers which is 100% NOT what you want to work with. They will sell you a 12kGVW RV because it only weights 9k dry and 'that's in your limits!' Better to artificially limit yourself and have a good tow than to always be at the max and white-knuckle it everywhere you go.
I used to have a 2017 Power Wagon (we were 'getting out of camping,' haha yeah right). When we decided to get a new camper, I limited us to 700 lbs of tongue weight - personal choice, and based off payload/towing numbers it seemed decent enough. The trailer we got ended up being about 7k loaded the way we camp, and around 700-725 tongue weight. After adjusting the hitch myself because the dealer tech just used measurements and not weight, it was a comfortable tow at 65 mph, would get a bit squirrelly if I had to push it to 75 for any length of time (mostly attributed to the soft Wagon suspension). The truck could have handled more camper, but it works for us and it was a comfortable tow, I never got out for fuel or at our destination and felt shaky. With the new truck I could definitely handle a LOT more trailer, but honestly there's no need for us to upgrade...yet.
I guess what I'm saying is, since you have the truck you need to do your research on what you want to have. Really the best way to go about it is to figure out what you want to pull, and buy the appropriate truck to do so.