Synthetic Oil

U&A said:

I just listened to the 5.0 in an F150 have terrible start up tic. It mostly went away within two seconds or so but then turned into a hot idle tic.

Good lord

It’s everywhere!!!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

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U&A said:

Again, he said all three would be fine. Choose based on your needs.

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OMW2SKI said:

Got the QSUD and Liqui Moly in over the weekend. I didn't realize how noisy the engine was on cold start-ups until it quit. QSUD and Liqui Moly for the score! You other guys that use Liqui Moly, how often do you add? Every oil change, or some other interval?

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U&A said:

I just listened to the 5.0 in an F150 have terrible start up tic. It mostly went away within two seconds or so but then turned into a hot idle tic.

Good lord

It’s everywhere!!!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Click to expand...

tidefan1967 said:

On a stock engine I ALWAYS put the exact same plug back in that came out(both brand and part #)had too many problems back in the day. Advance Auto would always say we got this we don't have that or we got a sale on Autolites this week when you should be buying Champions. No way in hell I want to change those 16 plugs twice because the ole' girl is finicky!
On another note while I was in WM yesterday I made my usual trip thru the automotive section and damn that QSUD is cheap, $15.97 for a 5 qt jug. I almost picked up some but I'm only at about 4500 miles on this batch of Redline but GD that's cheap! I honestly think I might give it a quick 5K try maybe next go around just for the hell of it. It ain't Redline and I wouldn't want to run it as long but honestly only changing my oil once every 8-10 months seems pretty weird to me.

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Zack02 said:

Like I said, I didn't have any issues. I wish you the best with them. Here is mine





I'm just adding mine to the start and then running a normal OCI

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Burla said:

so backs weren't hard to get? cool

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Burla said:

Well I was looking, the back drivers side is gonna be a ***** to get, I am suprised the other guy was able to get it easily. We will see, the wife has me on my favorite job right now, chain sawing. Pine and Palm, what a freaking nightmare cutting a palm down, lol. I rold her, the dump wont take them, so we will have to live with the body till it breaks down, which is longer then either of us with be alive, lol. She made me cut it down, my chainsaw was really not happy about it and it let me know.

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Burla said:

so backs weren't hard to get? cool

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Zack02 said:

Meh, I wouldn't say they're any harder than getting to the front two on the drivers side. They come out easy if you remember how you stuck the socket in, in the first place. Not sure if there's any 1500 vs 2500 differences though...

The easiest way I found to do it; 6" swivel socket with a magnite, drop it in, seat it, attached the ratchet, pop 'em loose, then hand unscrew them using the socket. Reinstall the other way, plug onto the socket, hand screw in, ratchet for the 13 foot-pounds. DO NOT EXCEED 15.

They say not to use anti-seize, because it changes the friction coefficient; which will cause you to over tighten them. I add a tiny bit to mine and they came out pretty easy. Those aluminum heads freak me out man.

Socket is $11 on amazon, well worth every darn penny.

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smiley said:

It isn’t hard honestly. Just have multiple extensions and a finger wrench. I have done it many times and gets easier each time.

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Burla said:

I know I will mad at myself for putting it off so long. I kept going off some of the old youtubes and guys saying have like 4 hours set aside. The truck still has less then 30k miles, lol. I'm down to maybe 1k miles a year.

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Fitz-0518 said:

Morning Gents. Need to share this with you because,,,,well it is one of the rules. Some of you know that FCA replaced my first 2018 2500 6.4 2wd 66RFE in January of this year at 5000 miles for defective exhaust system. The replacement truck came with a first start valve train dry start rattle. Changed oil at 1000, 4000 and the last one at 7000. Tried different oils. Solved the problem with the last change. PUP, 4 0-40, 2 5-30 and 2 10-30. RP long filter. I know that will cause some to shake their heads. But I believe I have this figured out. Definitely have the cold start rattle stopped and high temp click is gone. The only thing you hear in that engine compartment now is the injectors and the alternator. These 6.4 engines run at 210 degree's. In our part of the West we get 105* days often in the summer. As much as I like the formula and additives in RL, the base stock is too thin in my engine. Amsoil and PUP 0-40 same thing. The engineers spec'd these engines for 0-40 oil NOT because they determined that it would be the best oil for wear, heat and start up. But because they needed more CAFE points. A little common sense and basic understanding of a engine tells us that we need oil between rotating and sliding metal parts. Keeping them cool as possible with no metal to metal contact should extend the life the engine. Will this combination of PUP effect MDS, oil injectors or our variable pressure oil pump. I do not know the answer to that. I do know that it is stopping first start bleed down rattle and high operating temp click. Since we always disable the MDS, it does not concern me. I do know this. This thread/forum provided me the knowledge and facts that I needed to get up to date on oil. BTW my 03 5.7 1500 with 232k miles is loving Pennzoil conventional high mileage 10-40. Fitz

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Burla said:

Taking a break from tree cutting


I have been debating this, I think I may skip the anti sieze depending on how my plugs look. I never over tighten plugs, more then likely I under tighten them. So far that has always worked out. Just go to snug.


When I clicked that link.., You purchased this item on December 28, 2016. That is how long I been putting off plugs. Now I have some time open.

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Burla said:

Taking a break from tree cutting


I have been debating this, I think I may skip the anti sieze depending on how my plugs look. I never over tighten plugs, more then likely I under tighten them. So far that has always worked out. Just go to snug.


When I clicked that link.., You purchased this item on December 28, 2016. That is how long I been putting off plugs. Now I have some time open.

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U&A said:

You sure?

A dot of anti-seize the size of (or smaller) The diameter of a pencil eraser is cheap insurance for years down the road.

do it at the beginning of the threads so very thin coat will spread throughout the entire plug when you tighten it.

I completely understand if you don’t want to do it though. They say you don’t need it anymore. Equally though .... the same people are telling me to leave them in for 100,000 miles[emoji1787][emoji1787]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

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U&A said:

You’re running 8 quarts of oil...?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

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