Missives cylinder 3 and no eco mode?

Wild one · Apr 7, 2024

It's usually easy to find #1 on a V8. The bank that is #1 will always be roughly the width of a connecting rod ahead of the other bank of cylinders. You have it right,odd cylinders are on the right side if you're standing in front of the truck,looking at the engine,but here's a tidbit to remember,usually right and left are determined from sitting in the drivers seat looking out the windshield,as that even applies to vechicles that drive on the wrong side of the road

mtofell · Apr 7, 2024

acolic said:
Besides the coil and spark plugs, what else could this be

Guess I should have finished my story above (new engine needed) but I almost didn't want to introduce any more of my horror story. The dealer looked into the cylinder throwing the bad code - guessing they swapped coils, plugs, etc. and when that didn't change things they dug into the engine (their words... not sure what that even means/entails) and found a screen/filter with metal shavings. From that they concluded some main bearing had failed and a new engine was called for. I would have definitely asked for more details if not for my Lifetime Warranty. $100 deductible for a new engine seemed like a good enough deal for me to stock asking questions

mdc1990zr1 · Apr 7, 2024

mtofell said:
Guess I should have finished my story above (new engine needed) but I almost didn't want to introduce any more of my horror story. The dealer looked into the cylinder throwing the bad code - guessing they swapped coils, plugs, etc. and when that didn't change things they dug into the engine (their words... not sure what that even means/entails) and found a screen/filter with metal shavings. From that they concluded some main bearing had failed and a new engine was called for. I would have definitely asked for more details if not for my Lifetime Warranty. $100 deductible for a new engine seemed like a good enough deal for me to stock asking questions

It sounds like the dealer did the diagnostics that a good dealer should have done. They ruled out failing plugs and coils and must have checked the valve assembly. The valve assembly not moving enough on a particular cylinder led them to the conclusion that there was a failure with the lifter and/or cam. Proper diagnostics led them to look at the VVT screen that had metal particals on it. Mopar warranty procedure calls for engine replacement at this point and rules out fixing with cam and lifter replacement. At the end of the day, a new factory engine for $100 isn't a good story, its a great story! I would go play PowerBall tonight as it just hit 1.3 billion! You lucky b.a.s.t.a.r.d!

acolic · Apr 7, 2024

Can we maybe have a few positive stories that are like:

“I got a warning light and I thought I’d have to replace the engine but it turned out to be a 5$ part.”

mtofell · Apr 7, 2024

mdc1990zr1 said:
At the end of the day, a new factory engine for $100 isn't a good story, its a great story! I would go play PowerBall tonight as it just hit 1.3 billion! You lucky b.a.s.t.a.r.d!

Yeah, the $2200 Lifetime Warranty has more than paid for itself. Transmission, exhaust manifold bolts, 8.4 Uconnect system and then an engine. They did put me through the wringer with service history, etc. I am super-glad to have had EVERY bit of service done at the dealer and follow the manual to the letter. Also, it took 4+ months due to parts availability but yeah... I'll take it

Daniel from Texas · Apr 8, 2024

acolic said:
Of course, one day into a 7 day road trip and I get a check engine light.

It’s telling me I have a PO303 misfire cylinder 3.

Also noticed that Eco mode is not switching on.

The truck still seems to be driving pretty well although the fuel economy is not where I expected it.

Considering I’m doing long stretches on the highway at a consistent speed.

I probably won’t be able to find a dealer until Monday. In the meantime I’d like to narrow down what’s going on.

I changed the spark plugs and all coils last Tuesday and I’ve been driving it since then without an issue.

I have some basic tools with me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.

I think you may be seeing the start of loosing a cam lobe.

acolic · Apr 8, 2024

It’s been two days without a light.

I just need it to last two more days.

N0NAMETOGIVE · Apr 8, 2024

My 6.4L misfired at 79k changed the plugs, and misfired at 90k so changed the pcv valve. Solved it for me.

acolic · Apr 8, 2024

It’s going to be tough to diagnose this since the check engine light went off but my goal is to replace the spark plugs, PCV valve, and fuel injector for cylinder 3 and hopefully it doesn’t come back.

I could always takeoff the valve cover, but it looks to be challenging on the right side of the motor.

aepowell · Apr 8, 2024

I just went through this with my 2013 5.7 ram.
My cam and lifters in my 2013 hemi went out at 143,000. I took it in thinking the exhaust bolts were broken again. It never threw any codes. I caught it just in time to save the motor. They had the truck for 1 month. I had the lifetime warranty so it just cost me 100.00. If the motor has been bad it would have cost 15,000.00. They pull the plenum to see if there is any metal in the cvv valve under there if its clean they can just do a cam job. If I had needed a motor they would have bought the truck for market value and canceled the warranty. I was lucky now i still have full coverage until the value of the repair is more than the value of the truck. A week after the cam job the heater core stopped up. Another 100.00 and I was on the road again. The lifetime warranty was the best purchase I ever made. I paid 2,200.00 for it.

Chowzer · Apr 8, 2024

I have a similar problem on my 2011 5.7 hemi. I have a code 300 and a code 303 cylinder number three misfire on my code reader. I replaced the plugs and coil on cylinder three. I turned
off the check engine light with my code reader put in oil conditioner and drove it around. I drove around the town without giving it much gas. It drove fine with no misfiring for two days. When I punched it. the check engine light came back on and it was misfiring again and sputtering. You could feel the cylinder not working. My friend who worked at the dealership in Colorado says it’s a flat spot on the cam. He seen this many many times in the 2011 and 2012 hemi motors it’s a five to $8000 fix depending on where you bring it , I’m wondering if it’s worth having it fixed or buying a new motor, a crate motor.
Does anybody else have ideas on this? I’m also thinking of trading it in and getting another truck.

acolic · Apr 8, 2024

For people who rebuild their engines what cams are they using?

I am thinking not the OEMs considering their failed.

Wild one · Apr 8, 2024

acolic said:
For people who rebuild their engines what cams are they using?

I am thinking not the OEMs considering their failed.

Usually by the time you wear out 2 stock cams and lifters,the engine and truck are pretty close to being done.

acolic · Apr 9, 2024

Well, as expected, I spent the night watching YouTube videos on how to do the job.

Looks pretty straightforward except seems some variability on the need to remove the oil pan.

I’ve seen some videos which talk about not removing the pan, others you have to remove the pan, others you need to remove the differential to get to the pan, etc.

So can you remove the pan without needing to lower the differential and raise the engine?

Wild one · Apr 9, 2024

acolic said:
Well, as expected, I spent the night watching YouTube videos on how to do the job.

Looks pretty straightforward except seems some variability on the need to remove the oil pan.

I’ve seen some videos which talk about not removing the pan, others you have to remove the pan, others you need to remove the differential to get to the pan, etc.

So can you remove the pan without needing to lower the differential and raise the engine?

If you haven't read through the first few pages of Kurtis's thread on cam swapping it's worth reading.
On a 4X4 the front diff needs to be dropped to remove the pan completely

How-To: 4th gen hemi cam installation

Since cams are becoming more available for the VVT hemi engine, regardless of whose cam you choose, here is the how-to of doing the cam swap for the 4th gen trucks. This is honestly a job that can be done by anyone with basic handtools and basic mechanical skills. I did my first cam swap...

www.ramforum.com

acolic · Apr 9, 2024

Hi

I read the post. A lot of good info. But no indication that the oil pan needs to be removed?

Wild one · Apr 9, 2024

acolic said:
Hi

I read the post. A lot of good info. But no indication that the oil pan needs to be removed?

You don't need to remove the pan or oil pump to do a cam. Some of the pic's in Kurtis's thread are of my truck,and the oil pump has never been off the engine. His pics in post #4 are from my truck,when we did the cam swap in it,and as you can see we never pulled the oil pump.

acolic · Apr 10, 2024

Great then the job seems pretty straight forward.

Drain and Remove rad.
Move transmission rad, alternator and power steering out of the way.
Remove plugs, fuel injectors and coils out of the way
Remove heads
Rebuild heads
Remove cam cover
Remove water pump
Remove oil pump
Remove camshaft
Install new camshaft
Install Hellcat oil pump
Install new water pump
Install new timing chain
Put it back together.

Seems time consuming but straightforward.

Made it home.

Put on 1500 miles since the check engine light went out.

Wild one · Apr 10, 2024

acolic said:
Great then the job seems pretty straight forward.

Drain and Remove rad.
Move transmission rad, alternator and power steering out of the way.
Remove plugs, fuel injectors and coils out of the way
Remove heads
Rebuild heads
Remove cam cover
Remove water pump
Remove oil pump
Remove camshaft
Install new camshaft
Install Hellcat oil pump
Install new water pump
Install new timing chain
Put it back together.

Seems time consuming but straightforward.

Made it home.

Put on 1500 miles since the check engine light went out.

R&R'ing the oil pump is easier said then done if the pan is still in place. Buy yourself a cheap 13 mm wrench,so you can custom bend it to get at the pick-up tube bolt,and be very careful you don't tear up it's O-ring,otherwise you'll end up tearing it apart again to replace the O-ring.If you're hung up on the hellcat pump,swap your stock bypass spring into it. If you're doing the timing chain,get the whole kit and replace the guides and tensioner at the same time

acolic · Apr 12, 2024

Hi.

I went to the shop that I’ve been going to for many years.

They weren’t eager to assume the cams were faulty.

They also weren’t thrilled with the spark plugs I had chosen to swap in just before my trip. Apparently they’ve had issues with them.

So what they wanted me to do is swap out the NKG plugs I just installed with the OEM spark plugs.

They really felt this was not a cam issue that it was something else.

And I would love to avoid the expense.

So I’m in the process of changing over to OEM spark plugs.

They did tell me I had a torque converter issue likely due to the misfire issue. They gave me a long explanation how the misfire issue would affect the operation of the torque converter.

They believe I actually have two separate issues. And hopefully once the misfire issue is fixed, the torque converter issue will be resolved.

The asked for pictures of the NKG plugs that I just pulled out. The driver side ones are below. Just waiting to see what they think about them. This is what they look like after 2 weeks.

Missives cylinder 3 and no eco mode?

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