Raadz
Junior Member
2014 ram 1500 4x4 sport 5.7l hemi 8 speed truck 3.92 gears.
Thought i'd make a little post about my personal experience for those who are trying to do what i did and just want a very straightforward answer. I read a lot of different forums during my planning stage and found a lot of conflicting information so here is what i did and it works, the truck runs and drives good, just got it dyno tuned as well.
CAM
5.7l hemi with a 6.4l non mds cam (the one from the manual challengers). i've built quite a few of these motors, when the mds system works it's great, saves you fuel but it's one more thing that could go wrong so save yourself the hassle and just get rid of it. CEL will be on for your solenoids obviously until you delete it but it shouldn't affect your drivability, it didn't for me.
SPRINGS
6.4l hemi apache springs with the factory 5.7l sized shims. The shims aren't required if you don't plan on living way up in the rpms which unless you're racing you probably won't be, but leaving the shims in or replacing them with new ones also doesn't hurt anything so that's what i did because it just made sense.
LIFTERS
I personally chose to get my non mds lifters from comp cams, not the most expensive but definitely not the cheapest. Don't cheap out on lifters, you get what you pay for and you might end up paying for another new motor. Also required is non mds lifter trays, they are different and you will need them. Also have a mellings high flow oil pump for better idle oil movement.
VVT LIMITER/LOCKER
Didn't use one, don't need one. If you put one on you'll make just as much power as stock if not even less actually. The 6.4 cam is very mild, it's an upgrade but not crazy enough to warrant a limiter.
HEADERS
If you're doing all this work anyway throw headers on the truck, currently i only have shorty headers running back into the factory cats, which isn't the best. Ideally use long tubes and highflow cats or no cats. I'm also using the factory exhaust gaskets with the built in heat shield, remflex gaskets are also a good choice, personally i didn't want to gamble with the gaskets that came with the headers and have them leak after a couple thousand miles. I also put heat shields on my knock sensors (mopar sells them) because the headers sit really close to them.
DYNO RESULTS
Mopar claims 395hp to the crank under perfect conditions, if you account for the roughly 23% loss through the drivetrain that's about 304whp again under perfect conditions. I ran my truck on 89 octane with 33x12.5r20 tires. This is a freshly rebuilt motor with 1100km on it, it's not tired and worn out. First pull made 270whp i don't remember the torque. The Final pull made 303whp @5800rpm and 335lb-ft of torque at it's peak.
I'm aware that these motors with the modifications i made can safely rev over 6000rpm and probably make more power, i'm not a tuner it's not my expertise so i let a reputable shop do the tune work and what they did is what they did. It gained pretty much exactly how much power i thought it would, just the numbers i got were lower than i expected. If anyone else has done this exact setup on the same truck and has dyno results i'd love to hear about them.
EDIT
I suppose i should mention the truck was never tuned to make the absolute most amount of power it could possibly make, my AFR was all over the place so that got cleaned up so the truck runs smooth all across the board and had my shift points adjusted. It shifts nicer and gets just as good mileage as stock with more peak torque which is great. When i deal with my cats and throw long tubes on maybe i'll throw 94 in it just to see how far we can push it (without blowing it up hopefully) because it's hard to go crazy with timing when you're running 89, most of the time i've actually only got 87 in it so. It's built to make more power but is just tuned pretty conservatively. Overall i'm still satisfied with where it's at for what I did to it and 100% do plan on doing it again with another truck in the near future.
Thought i'd make a little post about my personal experience for those who are trying to do what i did and just want a very straightforward answer. I read a lot of different forums during my planning stage and found a lot of conflicting information so here is what i did and it works, the truck runs and drives good, just got it dyno tuned as well.
CAM
5.7l hemi with a 6.4l non mds cam (the one from the manual challengers). i've built quite a few of these motors, when the mds system works it's great, saves you fuel but it's one more thing that could go wrong so save yourself the hassle and just get rid of it. CEL will be on for your solenoids obviously until you delete it but it shouldn't affect your drivability, it didn't for me.
SPRINGS
6.4l hemi apache springs with the factory 5.7l sized shims. The shims aren't required if you don't plan on living way up in the rpms which unless you're racing you probably won't be, but leaving the shims in or replacing them with new ones also doesn't hurt anything so that's what i did because it just made sense.
LIFTERS
I personally chose to get my non mds lifters from comp cams, not the most expensive but definitely not the cheapest. Don't cheap out on lifters, you get what you pay for and you might end up paying for another new motor. Also required is non mds lifter trays, they are different and you will need them. Also have a mellings high flow oil pump for better idle oil movement.
VVT LIMITER/LOCKER
Didn't use one, don't need one. If you put one on you'll make just as much power as stock if not even less actually. The 6.4 cam is very mild, it's an upgrade but not crazy enough to warrant a limiter.
HEADERS
If you're doing all this work anyway throw headers on the truck, currently i only have shorty headers running back into the factory cats, which isn't the best. Ideally use long tubes and highflow cats or no cats. I'm also using the factory exhaust gaskets with the built in heat shield, remflex gaskets are also a good choice, personally i didn't want to gamble with the gaskets that came with the headers and have them leak after a couple thousand miles. I also put heat shields on my knock sensors (mopar sells them) because the headers sit really close to them.
DYNO RESULTS
Mopar claims 395hp to the crank under perfect conditions, if you account for the roughly 23% loss through the drivetrain that's about 304whp again under perfect conditions. I ran my truck on 89 octane with 33x12.5r20 tires. This is a freshly rebuilt motor with 1100km on it, it's not tired and worn out. First pull made 270whp i don't remember the torque. The Final pull made 303whp @5800rpm and 335lb-ft of torque at it's peak.
I'm aware that these motors with the modifications i made can safely rev over 6000rpm and probably make more power, i'm not a tuner it's not my expertise so i let a reputable shop do the tune work and what they did is what they did. It gained pretty much exactly how much power i thought it would, just the numbers i got were lower than i expected. If anyone else has done this exact setup on the same truck and has dyno results i'd love to hear about them.
EDIT
I suppose i should mention the truck was never tuned to make the absolute most amount of power it could possibly make, my AFR was all over the place so that got cleaned up so the truck runs smooth all across the board and had my shift points adjusted. It shifts nicer and gets just as good mileage as stock with more peak torque which is great. When i deal with my cats and throw long tubes on maybe i'll throw 94 in it just to see how far we can push it (without blowing it up hopefully) because it's hard to go crazy with timing when you're running 89, most of the time i've actually only got 87 in it so. It's built to make more power but is just tuned pretty conservatively. Overall i'm still satisfied with where it's at for what I did to it and 100% do plan on doing it again with another truck in the near future.
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