100,000 mile service

[BWL]

Friend of mine is looking to get his maintenance up to date on his truck. Just rolled over 160,000 kms. Only thing done is motor oil changes,air filters and brakes to date. List I gave him is front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, transmission fluid and filter, spark plugs. 2017 hemi 4wd quad cab. Anything important I missed or I should leave alone. Has drivetrain warranty to 200,000 kms so thinking best to do the trans sooner than later so if it goes wrong it's covered.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

Inspected all the ball joints?

 

[GTyankee]

FCA has a rule in place for any vehicles with warranties still in effect

You must take your vehicle to the dealership, for the 100,000 mile inspection to keep warranties in place.

I had to do it with my Extended Warranty on my old 2009 Dodge Ram, to keep the Lifetime Extended Warranty active

 

[EdGs]

Don't forget the PCV valve!

 

[BWL]

Front end was checked when the brakes were done and all was still good. First I've heard of a 100,000 mile inspection required for warranty, but worth looking into. Will add pcv valve inspect and clean to the list and possible replace depending how it looks.

 

[EdGs]

Does not surprise me at all if there is an inspection of some sort required for the extended warranty, probably buried in the fine print somewhere, I'm sure.

Sorry to say that I always look at it from the angle of wondering if they are honest or not.

Took my truck in to get recalls done at about 50k miles, the service advisor shows me this sheet how my alignment is out:


I never asked for them to "check" anything either.

I said, "If my alignment is so bad, how come I've put 20k miles on it, with NO pull, and the tire wear is even?"

He stammered a bit and said, "You're not the first one to say this. Maybe our machine is off."

Yeah, maybe. Or maybe you just tried to screw me.

Plus, this dealership was brand new at the time, and had only been open a few months.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

Ouch. I don’t trust dealership

 

[EdGs]

Even better, that I declined the alignment.

Now, my truck has 112k miles, and still has zero pull, and even tire wear.

Imagine that.

 

[GTyankee]

At mine & a few other dealerships, I have walked almost every inch of Service area & some of the Parts Dept. area where there was not a sign that read that for Insurance purposes, no customers beyond this point.

My dealership used to have a Waiting Room with a large window, so that you could look into the Service area & watch the Techs at work.
In that waiting area on the wall, they had Training Certificates from schools that some of the Techs had gone to.
It seemed strange to me that there was only about 10 Certificates & maybe about 25 Techs.

Then i read that each dealership is only required to have 1 ASE Certified Technician for each Service Dept.,
so that means:

1 ASE Certified Tech for Engines
1 ASE Certified Tech for Transmissions
1 ASE Certified Tech for Alignments
Etc.

There can be a bunch of non certified techs doing OJT under each ASE Certified Tech

By the way, my dealership boarded up the window into the Service area & the workmanship has declined

 

[Burla]

Did you do brake fluid with brakes, very important.

Clean throttle body.

Coolant.

 

[BWL]

I was curious about the coolant, but it looks clean and good temp wise for the area, but probably not a bad idea. Didn't do the fluid on the brakes, but not too concernerned about that. No leaks or signs of corrosion/damage to any lines. Given the brakes were done recently, were the originals and the rotors are still good I don't think it's seen any extreme conditions that would warrant replacement. Throttle body clean not a bad idea. It has only run whatever gas is cheapest for its whole life.

 

[LeesEvoX]

I was curious about the coolant, but it looks clean and good temp wise for the area, but probably not a bad idea. Didn't do the fluid on the brakes, but not too concernerned about that. No leaks or signs of corrosion/damage to any lines. Given the brakes were done recently, were the originals and the rotors are still good I don't think it's seen any extreme conditions that would warrant replacement. Throttle body clean not a bad idea. It has only run whatever gas is cheapest for its whole life.

Keep on mind that brake fluid is hydrophobic. So even though it's not in extreme environments, will still absorb water. Depleting brake performance.

I think a general rule of thumb is to replace brake fluid like every 3 years

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[GTyankee]

There is no set time to change Brake Fluid, there are too many variables, like Climates,

Many owners just have the Brake Fluid flushed when it's time to do a Brake job, others may decide to do it at another time, maybe even something like 70,000 miles

What you have to take into consideration is IF you decide to do it yourself, your not just taking fluid out & putting new fluid in.
You must take into account that if somehow Air got into the ABS System, you better have the proper device to reset the ABS.

Possibly the reason stores like Midas & Jiffy Lube won't flush the brake fluid is because they don't want to mess with the ABS System, it is a huge Liability issue

 

[Burla]

As long as you don't allow the master cylinder to go dry and have the fitting at the end of the line in fluid, it is nothing to do a brake flush. This is why when I dyi with OUT a bleeder, I tap pedal once and fill master cylinder, sorry to be all racist but they still refer to master cylinder as master. You corrode your brake line you can die, or worse kill some innocent pedestrian, all because you didn't do a 4 dollar flush. 32 ounces of dot 4 was 4 bucks on sale at the zone a few weeks back. Fluid corrodes and acid builds up, and oem fluid has notoriously bad boiling points. Meaning, there is no room for error. Look at your master cylinder, it is very likely black after 3 years, and if it is, you are not handling your business. If you want to do it less often, put the prestone down and pick up something similar to redline 600, high boiling temps so even as the fluid degrades, the boiling temp stays well above oem, can double an interval. Research wet and dry brake fluid boiling temps and find one with a high temp.

 

[BWL]

As long as you don't allow the master cylinder to go dry and have the fitting at the end of the line in fluid, it is nothing to do a brake flush. This is why when I dyi with OUT a bleeder, I tap pedal once and fill master cylinder, sorry to be all racist but they still refer to master cylinder as master. You corrode your brake line you can die, or worse kill some innocent pedestrian, all because you didn't do a 4 dollar flush. 32 ounces of dot 4 was 4 bucks on sale at the zone a few weeks back. Fluid corrodes and acid builds up, and oem fluid has notoriously bad boiling points. Meaning, there is no room for error. Look at your master cylinder, it is very likely black after 3 years, and if it is, you are not handling your business. If you want to do it less often, put the prestone down and pick up something similar to redline 600, high boiling temps so even as the fluid degrades, the boiling temp stays well above oem, can double an interval. Research wet and dry brake fluid boiling temps and find one with a high temp.

I think you mean the equal opportunity, ethnically diverse employer cylinder, but that's OK. We're not all woke. Air shouldn't get in there under normal circumstances. Pretty much have to make a mistake like not closing the bleeder or not topping up the aforementioned cylinder.

 

[LeesEvoX]

No need to worry about air in the system if you use a speed bleeder. It has its own fluid tank that you pressurize, and attach to the master cylinder. Old fluid out. New fluid in.

This is what I use to do a complete flush without worrying about the ABS stuff

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Burla]

IMO it is very unethical to do brake jobs without flushing fluid, so simple while everything is apart to do the pads. Dude it is a large deal, don't let feelings get in the way of facts,

The dangers of old brake fluid

Among the repair trade, elderly brake fluid is known as the ‘Silent Killer’. Its affinity for moisture reduces its high boiling point and this can cause contaminated fluid to boil in the braking system, creating vapour lock. This results in total failure of the hydraulic braking system, because the pedal will sink to the floor, resulting in zero retardation. Naturally, this experience for most motorists is nothing short of terrifying.



The solution is to have new fluid flushed though the braking system every two years, unless the car manufacturer (or your garage) insists on earlier intervals. Many professional workshops rely on brake fluid testers that collect a sample of your car’s fluid and heats it up to determine the temperature at which it boils....


link for more info

 

[GTyankee]

You mentioned your Coolant
Even with Mopars OAT coolant, it has to be evacuated, purged, or changed every 5 years at the latest, if it was filled with the

Genuine Mopar Fluid 68048953AB Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle
5 year / 100,000 coolant

Jeez, am i wrong again ?

Just went to the Mopar site:

(sorry about the Bold Text below, can't seem to change it)

Mopar 10 Year/150,000 Mile Coolant Concentrate
Item model number 68163848AB

Your vehicle has been built with an improved engine coolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032) that allows extended maintenance intervals. This engine coolant (antifreeze) can be used up to ten years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km) before replacement. To prevent reducing this extended maintenance period, it is important that you use the same engine coolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032) throughout the life of your vehicle.

How the heck do i know which OAT coolant is in my 2016?

I think that i need a beer, while i ponder this
My Ram is 5 years & 3 months old

 

[Burla]

Brake Master Cylinder We recommend you use Mopar DOT 3. If DOT 3 brake fluid is not available, then DOT 4 is acceptable.

You mentioned your Coolant
Even with Mopars OAT coolant, it has to be evacuated, purged, or changed every 5 years at the latest, if it was filled with the

Genuine Mopar Fluid 68048953AB Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon Bottle
5 year / 100,000 coolant

Jeez, am i wrong again ?

Just went to the Mopar site:

(sorry about the Bold Text below, can't seem to change it)

Mopar 10 Year/150,000 Mile Coolant Concentrate
Item model number 68163848AB

Your vehicle has been built with an improved engine coolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032) that allows extended maintenance intervals. This engine coolant (antifreeze) can be used up to ten years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km) before replacement. To prevent reducing this extended maintenance period, it is important that you use the same engine coolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032) throughout the life of your vehicle.

How the heck do i know which OAT coolant is in my 2016?

I think that i need a beer, while i ponder this
My Ram is 5 years & 3 months old

It isn't even close you have oat, now it is not dex but rather a dex clone minus some additives so don't pay attention to this chart, but you want 10 year Chrysler coolant only, it will be purple but also goes red/pink in use.

 

[CVX20]

FCA has a rule in place for any vehicles with warranties still in effect

You must take your vehicle to the dealership, for the 100,000 mile inspection to keep warranties in place.

I had to do it with my Extended Warranty on my old 2009 Dodge Ram, to keep the Lifetime Extended Warranty active

I think they'd like you to but it's doubtful they can deny a warr. claim based on that.It's just a money grab IMHO.