1985 RAM 2500 - Wheel Cylinder question

[CaptnTony]

Not very mechanically inclined, but working on it.

I've recently encountered a brake line leak and it is in the left rear wheel cylinder (inside hub at top). I'm wondering if it's something a not very experienced person can take out? I have a Haynes manual and see the pictures of how to get the brake removed and how to repack the unit (I think I'd just buy a whole new one -- unless it comes in pieces and I'd have to 'build' it anyway!).

I think I can get it out okay, I just don't know if I'll have to bleed the brake system after the replacement - I have ZERO experience with that and have no specialized tools for it if needed. If it's not something recommended for someone willing to learn, how much should I expect to pay (roughly) for someone to do it professionally?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate your help.

Oh, shoot, forgot to put into the original that I've found a link (I think) for the part:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1996/dodge/ram_2500/brake/wheel_cylinder.html


Is there really any difference in the 30.00 part vs the 8.00 (or so) part? Is it worth the money to get the more expensive one, in your opinion?

 

[quietpeen]

I can't help, but hopefully somebody that can chimes in

 

[rambob]

Not very mechanically inclined, but working on it.

I've recently encountered a brake line leak and it is in the left rear wheel cylinder (inside hub at top). I'm wondering if it's something a not very experienced person can take out? I have a Haynes manual and see the pictures of how to get the brake removed and how to repack the unit (I think I'd just buy a whole new one -- unless it comes in pieces and I'd have to 'build' it anyway!).

I think I can get it out okay, I just don't know if I'll have to bleed the brake system after the replacement - I have ZERO experience with that and have no specialized tools for it if needed. If it's not something recommended for someone willing to learn, how much should I expect to pay (roughly) for someone to do it professionally?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate your help.

Oh, shoot, forgot to put into the original that I've found a link (I think) for the part:

96 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 Wheel Cylinder - Brake - PBR, Centric, Dorman, Rear, Rear Left, Rear Right - PartsGeek


Is there really any difference in the 30.00 part vs the 8.00 (or so) part? Is it worth the money to get the more expensive one, in your opinion?

you will have to at the very least bleed that wheel.
the less time you have the system open, the less it will take to get the air out.

you should not need any special tools, maybe an extra person to push on the pedal. the easiest way is to open the bleeder valve a bit and let it drip into pan for 30 mins to an hour.

this is a good way also,
Brake Bleeding

the most improtant thing is not to let the fluid reservoir run empty, you will get air into the system and you will have to start over again and bleed all the wheels.
if you have a soft pedal afterwards, you may need to bleed them all anyways. start with the wheel furtherest from the reservoir and work towards it. (Pass rear, drvr rear, pass front, driv front)

 

[rambob]

I would (and have) buy the $8 one.
autozone, or another local store will have them about the same price.

 

[CaptnTony]

Thanks! I'll read that bleeding link now. Maybe not such a bad thing. Appreciate your help!

 

[V-10 RAM]

Don't buy a rebuild kit, Buy a new brake wheel cylinder. You are going to have to remove the rear brake & if they are soaked with brake fluid you will have to clean thoroughly or replace. All I can say is having the proper brake spring tools sure makes it easier. But can be done without.
When you install the new cylinder have the fluid bleed open. Make sure you master cylinder is full. Once the fluid starts running out the bleed close it. Then get someone to slowly press the brake pedal down & hold while you open the bleed. It is best to put a small hose on the bleed & drain into a bottle. Do that until you have a good pedal & all the air is gone. If you push the pedal to quickly on the first time you can throw the propositioning valve to front only stopping fluid from going to the back brakes. If you do that you have another whole issue.
Hope this helps.

 

[CaptnTony]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to ask around to see if anyone's got brake spring tools that I can borrow. I know my brother in law doesn't (asked him for help ), but there are a couple others I may be able to borrow from. One of the fears I have is springs flying all over the place - though these are quite big and should be able to be found easily.

 

[txbass06]

If you lose or break a spring, you could go to a parts store and pick up a whole new set that'll cover both drums for $8-$10


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[V-10 RAM]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to ask around to see if anyone's got brake spring tools that I can borrow. I know my brother in law doesn't (asked him for help ), but there are a couple others I may be able to borrow from. One of the fears I have is springs flying all over the place - though these are quite big and should be able to be found easily.

The big fear I always think of when installing those springs is the spring slipping when I'm about to hook it & my hand be the target of the end of the spring. That hurts after you pull the spring end out of your finger or hand. The chances of that happening are much less with a spring tool.
On the older trucks if you have to replace the brakes on both sides I would go buy a new spring set as mentioned above for both sides. They are cheap as said $8-$10 a side.
Let us know how it comes out for you.