1993 dodge brakes help please

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Blue beast1

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Ok I just signed up to this forum as I’m really in a bind my truck is a stock 1993 dodge w150 original brake lines I have made new brake lines from my master cylinder to that aluminum block they are 2 shorts lines ok first question is are these supposed to be inverted flares or bubble I’ve already installed them it’s a pita to take apart

second question from that aluminum I’ve replaced those 2 lines with the coils in them running down to a brass block splitter do hicky do these need to be inverted or bubble

I’m hoping I did it right everything I made is a inverted I dident look at what I took off like an idiot please help
Shawn
 
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Blue beast1

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Alright doing some research the lines coming out of the master cylinder go into a proportional valve I’m still not sure if it supposed to be a inverted flare or a bubble damn it I’m freaking out I need this thing fixed so I can move it it’s undriveable right now I’m assuming dodge dident change until later my 1987 has inverted flares everywhere this crap is confusing double bubble inverted my ass damn third world rice
 

reek

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my 92 was inverted flare for brake lines. I'm pretty sure they were stock. I think the only definitive way to check if you're in a time crunch is take the fitting off and check the 'seat' in your distribution block. the bubble looks different than one that takes an inverted flare fitting. you can find pics of what they look like on line. Other than that, you might have to hope someone has OEM specs and chimes in.
 
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Blue beast1

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Hey thanks guys time to bleed the brakes next time I will pay closer attention only reason I was freaking out is because I was looking at some pictures of the 2nd gen trucks and it appears that dodge had switched to a bubble flare on some of these connections anyway I really appreciate the quick feedback. Shawn
 
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Blue beast1

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Alright new problem let me first say when my trucks line broke up front proportioning valve had the pin in the back pushed out ok it’s functioning I guess my abs light and brake light were on

after replacing everything the lights went out and the pin somehow pushed back in ok all good

Master cylinder never went dry mind you but brakes need to be bleed I go to gravity bleed everything fronts have fluid but the rear has no fluid even after 2 hours what is the deal what am I missing I really hope I don’t have to bleed the master cylinder maybe I need to reset that valve wtf I don’t want to remove anymore lines it’s such a pain in the ass

All the hoses are good and bleeders are clean I even completely removed bleeders what do I do?
 

reek

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have you just tried manual bleeding instead of gravity?
 

crazzywolfie

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you still have to bleed things correctly. need to start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. will most likely require proper manual bleeding.
 
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