WHYTLIE03
Junior Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2018
- Posts
- 11
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- Lincoln, CA
- Ram Year
- 2017
- Engine
- 3.0L V6 Ecodiesel
Driving home from work and I hear the dash chime, and although I had my dash lights set to full bright they were very dim. Was able to read “Service Shifter” or something close to that. I then realized my Banks iDash was not lit up and working. As I am trying to assess what is happening the windshield wipers activate for one sweep. I press a button on the iDash and it comes on, but displays “err” and none of the selected parameters are displaying. Maybe 30 seconds pass and the dash lights return to full bright and the iDash starts working normally. The CEL (check engine light) and the traction control light on the dash stayed on and all the dash lights illuminated for a second or two, like when you first key on or start the engine.
I get home without issue and pull the codes, and then looked up their meanings:
U0140-00 Lost comm with BCM
U0212-00 Lost comm with SCM (steering column)
P0073-00 Ambient Air Temp High
U0001-00 High speed CAN Bus
U0101-00 Lost comm with TCM (trans)
U0121-00 Lost comm with ABS
U0140-00 Lost Comm with BCM
U0402-00 Invalid data from TCM (trans)
U0415-00 Invalid data from ABS
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
B16E7-15 License Plate Lamp Control Circuit (I have LED lights in most of the truck, including the license plate lights and randomly/frequently get a dash message saying a license plate light is burned out, however they both are working)
U0001-00 High speed CAN Bus
P1DD2-00 Torque Request Signal Denied
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
U0140-00 Lost Comm with BCM
U0121-00 Lost comm with ABS
U0212-00 Lost comm with SCM (steering column)
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
U0100-00 Lost Comm between ECM & PCM
U0101-00 Lost comm with TCM (trans)
Truck is a 2017 1500CC 4x4 BigHorn Ecodiesel with about 78,500 miles.
I do have Amp Power steps, Banks Derringer, Banks iDash, and Banks Peddle Monster. The Amp Steps and Banks devices are plugged into the OBD port with a splitter and have been for the past 40,000-60,000 miles without issue. I do have a stereo Amp, but it’s a 300watt Kicker, also been installed for about 40,000 miles with fuses on the back wall and a breaker at the battery. Also have airbags with a compressor wired up. Anything aftermarket has its own fuse close to the battery. Oh, I also have the transfer case lock switch that a member (sorry, forget your name) up in Canada makes/sells or used to sell.
I cleared the codes and started the engine and ran the dial shifter through the “gears” but have yet to take it on a new test drive.
I was monitoring the battery voltage after the initial glitch and it seemed solid at 14volts.
The truck is on the original battery, so I’m leaning in the direction of possibly the battery about to go. Or maybe the OBD splitter I’m using is starting to fail.
Thoughts?
I get home without issue and pull the codes, and then looked up their meanings:
U0140-00 Lost comm with BCM
U0212-00 Lost comm with SCM (steering column)
P0073-00 Ambient Air Temp High
U0001-00 High speed CAN Bus
U0101-00 Lost comm with TCM (trans)
U0121-00 Lost comm with ABS
U0140-00 Lost Comm with BCM
U0402-00 Invalid data from TCM (trans)
U0415-00 Invalid data from ABS
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
B16E7-15 License Plate Lamp Control Circuit (I have LED lights in most of the truck, including the license plate lights and randomly/frequently get a dash message saying a license plate light is burned out, however they both are working)
U0001-00 High speed CAN Bus
P1DD2-00 Torque Request Signal Denied
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
U0140-00 Lost Comm with BCM
U0121-00 Lost comm with ABS
U0212-00 Lost comm with SCM (steering column)
U0002-00 CAN Bus comm performance
U0100-00 Lost Comm between ECM & PCM
U0101-00 Lost comm with TCM (trans)
Truck is a 2017 1500CC 4x4 BigHorn Ecodiesel with about 78,500 miles.
I do have Amp Power steps, Banks Derringer, Banks iDash, and Banks Peddle Monster. The Amp Steps and Banks devices are plugged into the OBD port with a splitter and have been for the past 40,000-60,000 miles without issue. I do have a stereo Amp, but it’s a 300watt Kicker, also been installed for about 40,000 miles with fuses on the back wall and a breaker at the battery. Also have airbags with a compressor wired up. Anything aftermarket has its own fuse close to the battery. Oh, I also have the transfer case lock switch that a member (sorry, forget your name) up in Canada makes/sells or used to sell.
I cleared the codes and started the engine and ran the dial shifter through the “gears” but have yet to take it on a new test drive.
I was monitoring the battery voltage after the initial glitch and it seemed solid at 14volts.
The truck is on the original battery, so I’m leaning in the direction of possibly the battery about to go. Or maybe the OBD splitter I’m using is starting to fail.
Thoughts?