2000 dodge ram4×4 new all around brake pads/rotors/1 caliper now operates&sounds worse

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SkipperLynn

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Aug 12, 2022
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Edmond, Oklahoma
Ram Year
2000
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5.9liter
1st timer here so I'm not sure if this is where I need 2b, but I just wanted to throw my recent experience out there and hopefully get some feedback. I need advise for wat my next step should b regarding my breaks&I need immediate help. So back n February my dad and I replaced both front brake pads and passenger side caliper on my 2000 dodge ram 4×4. Then About 2 months ago the back breaks started going out and got real bad real quick to where we couldn't come 2 a complete stop at all. So took truck to mechanic a couple weeks ago 2 fix back breaks. We get a call saying how bad it was which we knew, but then they said the front breaks needed all new pads&rotors&same caliper replaced again that I did 5 months ago. So I'm a little skeptical but at the same time I do see how it could be possible. Maybe? So a $450 job originally for the back brakes turned into $975 for all around new pads rotors and one caliper. A day later we go to pick up the truck and the mechanic is talking about how we will not recognize the brake system the brakes are like brand new brakes on a brand new truck but then as we get in it they're explaining to us that the brakes are pretty stiff we'll have to work out some air blah blah blah and yes the brakes were a lot stiffer however it did not work any better than when wen we brought the truck in. They said drive it for a couple of days come back if nothing changes. We almost got n2 a wreck the same day cause we couldn't stop at stoplight, luckily nobody was n the next lane so we swerved over just n time to miss rearending somebody. I have called and gone up there a couple times since then in the past two weeks and now they're pointing out saying that their break job isn't the problem it's the brake booster or master cylinder that now needs to be replaced. For another 500 plus charge. But what I'm thinking is shouldn't they have fixed or pointed out the master cylinder/brake booster issue first before moving on to everything else if it really was bad? Cause I'm assuming they're supposed 2 kinda check that area as well....am I wrong? So now this is our only means of transportation for the whole family and literally my boyfriend has to hold the brakes down with both legs full force and still will not come to a complete stop to turn corners or stop lights without using the emergency brake, the whole truck grinds and shakes kinda bad anytime we use the brakes no matter how fast or slow we're driving and then just coasting through parking lot you can hear a loud click click click as the tires are turning. We didn't have these issues before the $1,000 job that they did. So we are dead broke and in worse condition than when we started but I'm not trying to blame anyone since I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area. Help please..... thoughts?
 

OC455

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First off....STOP DRIVING THE TRUCK....it's not safe if you re having to use both feet on the brake pedal.

They should have bled the brakes if they changed the caliper and not let you drive it until it was done. Sounds like a bunch of $#!T merchants telling you that you needed a brake booster.

Have it towed to a different mechanic.....
 

pacofortacos

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Also it definitely shouldn't grind or shake when hitting the brakes. Is the shaking the brakes or engine running rough when you hit the brakes?

Booster is easy enough to check, start the truck and let it idle for a minute or so, shut it off. Wait 5 minutes or so, pull the plastic check valve off of the booster - if you hear a loud hiss/escaping vacuum (air rushing in) from the check valve hole. In most cases this means the booster is ok. I don't think I have ever seen one that was bad and not leaking.
 
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