2010 ram 4.7 knock ***video added***

[jws123]

Is there an easy way to check these or does it require complete disassembly of the front timing cover?

Pull both valve covers have someone turn it over NOT start it and you can see if both chains slap or if the plastic guides are broken. The lower one never really has a issue of course you replace them all if the top 2 are bad

 

[jws123]

I have never had a tech. tell me the 4.7s had lifter problems.

What was common on high mileage 4.7s was timing chain slap and timing chain guides wearing to the metal.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 067939 miles.

Higher mileage 4.7s always have lash adjuster/lifters noise they get gummed sometimes spit the rocker arm out and cause misfires some people clean them and re install but at that point it makes sense to change them because its so cheap and easy to do.

 

[Kdusen]

Just to give a small update. I had some time to look over the truck again. I removed the valve covers then removed the rockers one at a time, starting it with one removed. The noise never went away. The timing chains are tight and the tensioner and guides look to be in good shape looking down from the valve cover. I also removed the coil harness one at a time so to kill one spark. I did this while the engine was running. The knocking noise didn’t change. I removed the oil filter and cut it open. I didn’t find any evidence of metal, at least that I could see. The noise seems loudest underneath the truck. Using a mechanics stethoscope, around the freeze plug area on both sides seems to be the most distinct ping sound. I’m leaning towards rod knock. Here’s the part that eludes me: at idle rpm (600) I can count 300 knocks per minute. Which to me says valvetrain. Wouldn’t flex plate bolts be at engine rpm? Would a rod knock be twice engine rpm? It’s been driven 1000-1500 miles since this began. Would a rod last that long?

 

[Kdusen]

Also, while driving the truck the noise is loudest under load. When you’re coasting the knocking is barely audible. I’m going to have black stone do an oil analysis, just to confirm my gut. I’m leaning towards this motor needing a rebuild/replacement.

 

[metalchewy]

You are right 300 vs 600 rpm sounds like valvetrain to me as well. Compression test check out ok? Not a mechanic, but could it be Cam bearings on one side? Is one head giving more noise than the other?

 

[jws123]

You are right 300 vs 600 rpm sounds like valvetrain to me as well. Compression test check out ok? Not a mechanic, but could it be Cam beatings on one side? Is one head giving more noise than the other?

No cam bearings on 4.7 its part of the head they don't really wear out often at all I have ones with 300k on it unless ya run it low on oil and it chews up.

I think at this point you need to pull it tear it down check bearings heads ect. I still think it could be timing chain or top end noise maybe the lower timing chain/guide you cant see that from valve cover engine off rock the crank back and fourth you will feel it catch kind of if it has a lot of slack.

 

[Kdusen]

Another update:
I pulled the oil pan, windage tray, and each connecting rod bearing cap. All rods felt tight but I wanted to look at the bearings. All bearings look identical and visually look good. No scoring or grooves, all 8 look good as well as the respective crankshaft journals. I couldn’t feel any play in the wrist pins. No sludge, oil pickup was clear. I also looked at the flex plate and torque converter bolts. All good there. Exhaust manifolds are not leaking. I guess my next step is to tear the front of the engine down to check the timing chains and tensioners. Could it have jumped a tooth timing wise and I’m getting very slight piston to valve contact, hence the noise?

 

[Jeepwalker]

Did you say you replaced the lifters on this? I can't remember. Any chance one was bad out of the box? If you update the timing kit, that will be one thing you won't have to worry about. What was the oil pressure before?

 

[Kdusen]

Yes I replaced all 16 lifters at the beginning of all this. I did go back and remove the passenger side lifters one by one, starting the engine minus one lifter. Noise never went away or changed. I didn’t do that with the drivers side however, mostly because I was convinced I had a bad rod bearing. Oil pressure was in the middle of the range, it never dropped down low, but there still may be a main bearing issue. To my knowledge engine was never ran low on oil, oil changed on time with Mobil 1 and Mobil filters. No sludge in oil pan or oil pickup.

 

[Kdusen]

Ttt.

 

[Kdusen]

Looking from the bottom up the rear cylinder on the drivers side shows wear on the cylinder wall. I originally thought I may have a wrist pin failure because all the rod bearings were good and the oil pressure showed good. With the piston at bdc I have excessive piston to cylinder clearance, enough that I can rock the piston from side to side using the conrod and make a metallic ping. Also, rolling over the motor using the harmonic balancer bolt I can hear the piston make a metallic noise at tdc and bdc. I just wonder why this happened. Truck was overheated once due to a bad water pump. All other cylinders look good with crosshatching still present.