2012 ram 2500 no crank, new starter, new WIN

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Bison

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Hello all. New to the forum, actually have never posted on ANY forum so bare with me if I'm not up on forum etiquette. I have a 2012 Ram 2500 SLT, 4X4, 6.7, lifted, deleted. I cannot say much about the delete and tune since I bought it that way about 4 years ago. The truck has been flawless since day one aside from normal ware issues. About two weeks ago I took it to work and when I got the remote start in the morning,I noticed it took just a little longer to start. It started none the less and off to work I went. After work, remote start didn't work, I thought nothing of it and jumped in and manual start it but nothing happened. No click, no attempt to turn, NOTHING. I jumped out and banged on the starter ( I know, I know) I jumped back in and still nothing. I moved the gear lever back and forth and nothing. Then after a few times of trying to start it, the starter started making noises and I was able to start it. I drove home and have not been able to start it. I have read plenty of threads and have seen plenty of YouTube videos but none seem to fit my issue.

Here's what I've done, to no avail:
-New starter
-New relay
-Removed TIPM to inspect
-Checked power at starter; has power from battery
-Checked signal wire while turning key; does NOT have signal
-Tranced wire to TIPM; wire is in tact and has continuity
-Checked for signal at TIPM; does NOT have signal coming out of TIPM
-Jump started the starter at relay; truck started
-Bought new WIN from Autotech; does NOT start
-Test batteries with Volt meter individually; tested good.

Anything else I need to do, any ideas will help. I feel like I'm at the end of the line on this. I forgot to mention,when I turn the key dash, lights, radio all come on and normal. Check engine line comes on and threw P0606.
 

RedPhase

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Have you looked at replacing the TIPM? I bought a 2012 2500 last week. It has a new battery and starter from previous owner. It started fine when I test drove and also the day I brought it home. I had trouble starting it. It cranked and after a few times cycling the key, it started. I took it to a local shop and there are issues with the TIPM.
 

RaptorHD

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Look at your batteries and your cables.. Seems the Rams are very finicky when it comes to the batteries.. My 2008 had the same issue a few times, clean the posts and lugs, charged the batteries up and no problem for about 2 more years then it did the same thing.
 

Burla

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you say..

-Jump started the starter at relay; truck started

right?

So there ya go. Your win all programmed to fob and flashed? Win and TIPM known issues for a 2012. If you jump started it at TIMP you can set up a push button to complete the circuit?
 

turkeybird56

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you say..

-Jump started the starter at relay; truck started

right?

So there ya go. Your win all programmed to fob and flashed? Win and TIPM known issues for a 2012. If you jump started it at TIMP you can set up a push button to complete the circuit?
^^^^^^^^^^^ DITTO ^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
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Bison

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Thanks everyone. Batteries were load tested and we're fine, cables are good too. I checked all wires under the TIPM and all looked fine. Checked wires at WIN and everything looks fine. I'm really breaking my head on this. I really don't want to have a permanent jump. Yes, I bought the WIN from Autotech, fobs come programed. I thought TIPM but that's an expensive guess. Any other thoughts. I even changed crank position sensor. Again, everything on the inside lights up but nothing happens when I turn to run.
 

GTyankee

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You say FOBs are programmed to run with the WIN Module

How did you program the new WIN Module to the Computer
without being programmed, i don't think that the computer really can communicate with it.
It is sort of like the computer sees something there, but does not know what it is, so it can't react to it
 

Burla

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Thanks everyone. Batteries were load tested and we're fine, cables are good too. I checked all wires under the TIPM and all looked fine. Checked wires at WIN and everything looks fine. I'm really breaking my head on this. I really don't want to have a permanent jump. Yes, I bought the WIN from Autotech, fobs come programed. I thought TIPM but that's an expensive guess. Any other thoughts. I even changed crank position sensor. Again, everything on the inside lights up but nothing happens when I turn to run.
You can use it to diagnose it doesnt have to be permanent. The tipm's fail from the inside by the solder joints, you can fix them there are some youtubes out there, but it isn't an easy thing to do without electrical knowledge.

Just saying you can tuck that start button anywhere, where nobody but you would know, if it came to that. You started when you jumped it at relay, there are just those two things that even it can be.
 

jws123

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Thanks everyone. Batteries were load tested and we're fine, cables are good too. I checked all wires under the TIPM and all looked fine. Checked wires at WIN and everything looks fine. I'm really breaking my head on this. I really don't want to have a permanent jump. Yes, I bought the WIN from Autotech, fobs come programed. I thought TIPM but that's an expensive guess. Any other thoughts. I even changed crank position sensor. Again, everything on the inside lights up but nothing happens when I turn to run.
You still need to program the WIN to the truck its not plug and play and then re program keys. I replaced mine myself with my scanner never heard of pre programmed win module i dont see how it can work. Also any decent locksmith can program the win and the keys dont need to go to dealer or better yet if you know someone with a scantool.
 
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GTyankee

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jws123

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I think the owner stated that he got the WIN Module & programmed FOBs through this company or another like it


...................................................................
videos made by autotechelectronic

Holy crap wow those prices!! I paid $170 for my WIN from summit racing. I still dont see how the win its self can be pre programmed to the truck could be a way i dont know about for sure.
 

GTyankee

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I don't think it can be pre programmed either

The FOBs can be pre programmed to the Win Module
all you would need would be work room or bench, a power modulator & some jumper wires & of course a programming tool.

Then if your current WIN Module will let you drive to a place that has a programmer

Drive there with a single screw holding the old unit in place
Then pull into a parking spot where it is handy for a technician.

Then you can remove the old unit, install the new ignition & screw it into place & plug the harness into it.

Then the technician can program it without doing any labor

I never thought to ask a key shop that programs FOBs, ( Like Ace Hardware ), if they can also program WIN Modules ?

Then again, i could be completely mistaken
 
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Bison

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The WIN was preprogrammed. The first day I replaced, the truck started but took a while to turn. I turned the key and nothing, as I was staring into the abyss wondering now what, the truck turned. I let it run for about 5 mins then shut it off and on like 15 times. It started but just seemed to take a little longer than usual. I drove it around for 30 mins and when I parked it again and shut it off, it wouldn't turn over anymore. Been like that for 3 weeks. Research Autotech, the FOB and WIN are programed and are infact plug and play.
 

Burla

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Did you try running codes after this last time? There is programming and flashing, you may need it flashed or relearned, the pcm could be the issue now. Even if it started, doesnt mean the pcm didnt catch up to foreign part now. did you watch yankees video?
 

GTyankee

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You mentioned that you started your Ram about 15 times without driving anywhere.

Your Rams battery had to be pretty close to dead after that
 
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Bison

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I was thinking batteries, but again it will start with no issues if I jump at the relay. It doesn't struggle to turn and drives perfectly. When I switched the WIN and turned the key it made the same noise at the starter as it did the very first time this ever happened. The noise was more of a "shorting out" noise not your typical broken starter noise. Hope I make sense and thanks for the replies/help. I also want to shout all the "military" members on here. Just retired my self a MONTH ago. Army!
 
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Bison

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I want to add that since I first posted this the truck has just been setting. I went out on Sunday and jumped the relay and again it started fine. It just won't do anything with the fob.
 
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