2013 Ram 1500 5.7 started making funny noise

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jws123

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I ordered the spring compressor from mmx and the threads have stripped out after only 9 springs done? Wtf … I ended up looking things up right now and it looks like they resell a $25 tool from Amazon for $147. I’m so pissed right now. What a pos. So much for me trusting mmx ever again.

I kept spraying it down with pb blaster every couple of springs. I’m going to have to tap it and get a new bolt.
your heads are off use a regular cheap valve spring compressor harbor freight sells them c clamp kind.
 
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AncientSword

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So I ended up going to get a decent quality bolt and I tapped the tool slightly larger. I welded a little bead on the end of the bolt and it worked perfectly. The bolt has to hold against the insert where there is a depression so it doesn’t slip off the spring. I used anti seize on the threads this time. We got all the springs changed out. It rained a ton today so we didn’t get a lot done. Will have to finish it tomorrow. Not fun working in the driveway but it’s the only place I’ve got.
 

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CanuckRam1313

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So I ended up going to get a decent quality bolt and I tapped the tool slightly larger. I welded a little bead on the end of the bolt and it worked perfectly. I used anti seize on the threads this time. We got all the springs changed out. It rained a ton today so we didn’t get a lot done. Will have to finish it tomorrow. Not fun working in the driveway but it’s the only place I’ve got.
Kudos to you and your son for tackling this job, especially in the driveway!

Kudos again to you both for sharing your experiences with us, too!
 

Wild one

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This was the bad lifter.


You caught that early enough there should be no issues with metal filings in the engine.
Glad you're getting it back up and running.
I envy you guys who can do this on a driveway in December,here you'd be dripping snot and hating life if you whacked a cold finger :Big Laugh:
 
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AncientSword

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We’re trying to start it but it’s cranking but not firing. Trying to figure out what is going on.
Can’t find any connections not plugged in but still looking. We tried to double check everything but it a big job for us.
 
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Burla

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Fuel pressure? Battery back hooked up and grounded good? These are the easy ones then stuff gets scary.
 
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AncientSword

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So, the cam sensor connector wasn’t quite seated all the way. It fired up and threw a p0300 misfire, but then we realized the vacuum line didn’t get plugged back in when we were going over everything for the third time. My son started disconnecting and reconnecting everything, lol

After vacuum line plugged in it’s running with no codes, so going to do break in process on cam. What a relief, was concerned there for a bit.
 

Burla

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So, the cam sensor connector wasn’t quite seated all the way. It fired up and threw a p0300 misfire, but then we realized the vacuum line didn’t get plugged back in when we were going over everything for the third time. My son started disconnecting and reconnecting everything, lol

After vacuum line plugged in it’s running with no codes, so going to do break in process on cam. What a relief, was concerned there for a bit.
Nice, so that ting sound is gone?
 
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AncientSword

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Nice, so that ting sound is gone?

The first sound that I was referring to? Yes …

It’s still ticking like it’s brand new, I haven’t run it enough for that to go away. My sons truck took like 20-30 minutes to do that when he did his.
 
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gtx6970

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Flexplate is easy to rule out. Lift it and remove the cast lower engine to trans bracket and remove all 4 flexplate to torque conv bolts
Then push and flex the plate in and out. If it squeeks or creaks, its bad.
If not, My money is on lifter failing


Exhaust leak will usually go away or decrease considerably once warmed up


I just went thru these exact scenario this summer. I thought for sure it was flexplate and had it replaced. didnt fix squat.

$3200 late I have all new cam , lifters , etc etc etc
 
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AncientSword

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Yeah, I’m around that price point with all the broken stuff added in. Somehow the radiator that’s 3 months old got broken right above the drain area, add another $250 ish…
 
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AncientSword

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I’m still dealing with a small exhaust leak. I sanded the stupid manifold and tried to get it as flat as I could but I’m on a time crunch. I had to get it back together. It’s the drivers side which is a pita to get out. I’m debating on getting some shorty headers sometime soon.

If I had known we would end up taking so long to get the gremlins worked out, I would have taken the manifolds to a shop to get them done.
 

Ken226

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I use DyeKem, but I keep it stocked in my shop. A blue sharpie will probably work about as well.

Paint the mating surface with DyeKem, a sharpie or just a light dusting of Krylon contrasting color. Take it to the belt sander until the paint is all gone.
 
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AncientSword

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Went for a test drive and stopped by a friends house. Went to leave and the transmission won’t shift at all. Crawled under there and the cable is coming apart. Manually shifted it, now looking into replacing that.

I’m having so much fun this week. Never had a problem with it before. Wonder if the bad exhaust leak I had at first affected the cable? Or just age?
 
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AncientSword

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Do I need to stick with a mopar shifter cable? It’s a Laramie Longhorn so of course Ram dealer thinks highly of their cable.
 

NCRaineman

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Do I need to stick with a mopar shifter cable? It’s a Laramie Longhorn so of course Ram dealer thinks highly of their cable.
I wouldn't buy anything but factory/dealer parts right now. So much Chineseium everywhere else, even on things that look legit. An expensive quality cable is better than a cheap one that breaks in six months.
 

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