2013 Ram 1500 5.7 started making funny noise

[Ken226]

Do I need to stick with a mopar shifter cable? It’s a Laramie Longhorn so of course Ram dealer thinks highly of their cable.

What is the part number for your cable?

I'm assuming you have a 65rfe with a console/floor shifter. If so, im seeing them for under 100$ from some places.

Mopar Parts Giant is where I bought my Electronic Power Steering rack. Is this the part you're looking for?:

68092061AB - Mopar Parts Giant

www.moparpartsgiant.com

The newer version of the same part:

68092061AC - Mopar Parts Giant

www.moparpartsgiant.com

 

[AncientSword]

I went ahead and ordered mopar off Rock Auto, it was $157 vs $260 at the dealer. I’ll have to wait till the first of the week for it, but I’m done trying to rush this repair. I’ll take the exhaust manifold off and get it flat in the mean time. Truck did run good for the 25 minutes I drove it.

It’s this one:

68298554AA - Genuine Mopar Gear shift Control Cable

MoparPartsGiant.com offers the great deal for genuine Mopar parts, 68298554AA. Gear shift Control Cable for $172.13. All parts are backed by the Mopar's warranty.

www.moparpartsgiant.com

My truck originally had the air ride suspension, which I had problems with. I put a 6” zone lift kit on it and disconnected the air ride. Because of the air ride it has DHS so I need the more expensive cable.

 

[Txbilly]

It's not that lifters cant sound like it is coming from bottom end but it would also sound like it is coming from the top. Bearings would have been my second guess. Ruling out flex plate is easy to do, it would be different then "I don't think". He either inspected it or ruled it out? It sounds like the other mechanic is hearing what I'm hearing.

 

[AncientSword]

Got the new shifter cable in, it was a pain due to not having much info on the DHS cable connection but figured it out after monkeying with it for a while. Didn’t want to break it, lol

My exhaust manifold on the drivers side was still bad so took it off for an third time and went to a machine shop. Looks good now, will install tomorrow and hopefully she’s good to go finally.

Bonus is that the guy at the machine shop is a customer of mine and we traded service. Now I have a connection to someone who builds hemi motors and does head work too. I didn’t think about going to him earlier, but I should have.

 

[AncientSword]

So it’s back up and running. I haven’t really driven it yet. I was getting an occasional misfire on cylinders 3 and 4. Just a couple over like 15 minutes of run time. I put a new cheap coil pack on number 4 and that went away. That was one of the damaged oem coils I tried to re boot. I don’t have another coil to try on 3 but I suspect it needs a new coil as well. I’m going to order a couple mopar coil packs. Planning to take it for a test drive in a few minutes. I need to swap coils and see if that fixes 3.

How concerned should I be about driving it with an occasional misfire? It hasn’t thrown a single DTC or anything.

 

[AncientSword]

I went and drove it for a half hour. No DTC but read 9 misfires in total on #3. Didn’t switch coil pack yet. It’s actually late and cold here for once. Wind chill is the low 30’s which is arctic for us. I see what you guys were saying about wrenching in the cold, can’t feel your hands too well and makes it hard to put small bolts in place, lol

 

[AncientSword]

So the truck ran good for about an hour and then developed another ticking noise. Can you guys listen to this and give me an idea of what to start on?

Is throwing no codes.

January 11, 2025

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[Ken226]

So the truck ran good for about an hour and then developed another ticking noise. Can you guys listen to this and give me an idea of what to start on?

Is throwing no codes.

January 11, 2025

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That sounds pretty bad. I don't think I'd bother switching the coil pack.

I counted about 75 ticks in 15 seconds, so about 300 per minute. Pretty much exactly the speed the camshaft is rotating at while idling. Bottom end knocks would be about double that frequency.

You should pull the valve covers and check the range of motion of the rocker arms.

Also look for broken valve springs, bent push rods and metal in the VVT solenoid.

 

[AncientSword]

I actually drove it to work today, but I’ll check into it when I get home tonight or tomorrow. It still isn’t throwing any codes or anything.

I changed the oil this morning, think I’ve got about 100 miles on it.

 

[Ken226]

I actually drove it to work today, but I’ll check into it when I get home tonight or tomorrow. It still isn’t throwing any codes or anything.

I changed the oil this morning, think I’ve got about 100 miles on it.

"Still driving it" is usually the difference between a cam/lifer replace and an entire engine replacement.

If you have the oil filter, maybe it's worth cutting it open to see how much glitter is in the pleats.



Edit: Wait, I went back and re-read this entire thread to refamiliarize myself. You just did a Cam/lifter replace on this engine 100 miles ago?

With OEM Mopar lifters and cam?

Bummer man! That sucks, but it sounds like you are going to have to open it back up. You wouldn't be the first to go back in and find old metal powder fouling up new lifters.

 

[AncientSword]

Yeah I did an mmx cam and mopar lifters, new valve springs and pushrods, all new timing and oil pump.

 

[Ken226]

Yeah I did cam and lifters, new valve springs and pushrods, all new timing and oil pump.

I'm specifically asking about which lifters. OEM? Because pretty much every review I've ever seen of aftermarket lifters, they sound exactly like your video.
Immediately!
Right out of the box!

If aftermarket lifters, then you may be lucky and it only means the lifters are junk, and not full of metal. Replace with OEM, and your all set.


But if it is tapping like that with new, OEM Mopar lifters, I'd be worried about oil passages full of steel powder, having destroyed your new lifters.

 

[AncientSword]

It’s kind of weird, but my son pulled up a video he has of his truck after his swap and it sounds almost exactly like mine. He’s not sure how long that lasted, but his sounds completely different now. Is it possible that this just needs to break in for a while?

I’ll pull the valve covers to check things still.

 

[AncientSword]

Mopar lifters I got from MMX were installed. They weren’t presoaked in oil though.

 

[Ken226]

Mopar lifters I got from MMX were installed. They weren’t presoaked in oil though.

I'd think that in a hundred miles, there would have long since been enough time to fill the lifters with oil. But, anything is possible.

There is a way to force oil through with a garden sprayer.

How to Prime a Hemi Engine with Oil | DIYHEMI Tech Tip

Today we talk about priming an engine with oil before we start it up. Many people overlook this process but it’s crucial to be sure you have lubrication in ...

youtu.be

You said you just changed the oil. Cut open the old filter and look for powder. Maybe even the current filter.

Did you inspect the drain plug magnet for any powder?

 

[Burla]

So the truck ran good for about an hour and then developed another ticking noise. Can you guys listen to this and give me an idea of what to start on?

Is throwing no codes.

January 11, 2025

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hemi tick for sure, number one cause after cam job is bent pushrods. If it is pushrods not seated correctly it should get worse. It could be lifters tick or exhaust tick, I'm just saying it is common for push rods to bend for whatever reason after a cam job.

 

[Ken226]

Mopar lifters I got from MMX were installed. They weren’t presoaked in oil though.

I think in about 50% of the cam/lifter jobs I've read about on this forum, the guy doing the job didn't get the push rods installed right and had problems.

 

[AncientSword]

Pulled the valve cover and it looks like he over torqued the rocker arms a bit. Think several of the intake pushrods are slightly bent. I’m picking up new melling pushrods right now. Will test compression on all the cylinders after we put those in and get the rocker arms tightened to the correct specs.

 

[BurtShaver]

Pulled the valve cover and it looks like he over torqued the rocker arms a bit. Think several of the intake pushrods are slightly bent. I’m picking up new melling pushrods right now. Will test compression on all the cylinders after we put those in and get the rocker arms tightened to the correct specs.

I will be starting to put my 2016 back together this week, if my memeory serves me correctly the torque for those rocker tubes is 17 foot pounds but done in stages from the inside out. Do you know what you torqued them to? Just curious

 

[AncientSword]

When he checked them they were various from 20 to 26 ft lbs. He said thinking back that he turned them down with a wrench and then final torque with a torque wrench. He’s thinking they were already too tight?

After talking it over, he torqued them with our right angle cordless 3/8 ratchet and then put a torque wrench on them. We just did it all by hand this time.