2013 upper control arms

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My UCA. 2013 with bilsteins at 2.8 since Oct still look fine .maybe my truck was an early build.Bought truck 6/21/13.IMG_0490_zps1f3bf755.jpg
 
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It looks the same as the day it was installed.Looking from the top and side.
 

jbr

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My UCA. 2013 with bilsteins at 2.8 since Oct still look fine .maybe my truck was an early build.Bought truck 6/21/13.IMG_0490_zps1f3bf755.jpg

What is the build date along the inside of the driver's door say?

Need a pic from the side to see if there is any gap present.
 
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build date 4/13 I have been checking my UCA daily.NO GAP...
 

jbr

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build date 4/13 I have been checking my UCA daily.NO GAP...

Good to hear you haven't had any problems.

My build was 3/13, but haven't pulled the trigger yet with a level. Just wondering when the UCA'S were changed in 2013.
 

Lobster Poutine

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I would assume it's proprietary. Just give zone a call and I'm sure they can tell you.

not propriety. i cant remember the part number, but zone gave it to me no problem when i asked what the replacement ball joint was. i was told it was a raybestos part and readily available. the last thing i wanted to do was change the UCA's again when i need new ball joints.

the biggest plus is the new ones are grease-able.
 

tripower

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Guys that are advising Zone UCAs when running Bilsteins at any height don't understand the ball joint problem. A totally unnecessary fix. The Bilsteins don't increase down travel in a significant way, so they don't stress the ball joints. Aftermarket UCAs are necessary with spacers, since you're extending down travel very significantly.
 

Djeazie

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Your wrong tripower. Ball joints are popping with Bilsteins also. Mine did.

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OP
OP
B

blackexpress13

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Mine was built in January 2013 and mine are popped


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lonewolf2873

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Every person I've seen post they have any lift, bilstein or spacers, has popped ball joints to some degree.
Due to it being a safety concern, my safety more importantly then anyone elses, I'll do it right the first time. I plan on running fronts at 2.8 and rear +1 inch if at all possible with addition of zones.
 

hotrodderscott

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Does anyone know if you order a replacement UCA for a 2009-2012 if you will actual get a original design UCA or will it be the new 13-14 design, do the have sepetate part numbers for different manufacturing dates?
 

tripower

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Your wrong tripower. Ball joints are popping with Bilsteins also. Mine did.

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Your signature says you have a 6" lift, which would change things dramatically. Not apples to apples.
 

tripower

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Every person I've seen post they have any lift, bilstein or spacers, has popped ball joints to some degree.
Due to it being a safety concern, my safety more importantly then anyone elses, I'll do it right the first time. I plan on running fronts at 2.8 and rear +1 inch if at all possible with addition of zones.

I understand wanting to err on the side of caution, it won't hurt anything but your wallet. That's an easy, safe option if you don't have the time or ambition to fully understand the problem. Most of the people I see recommending UCAs can't really explain the problem. They just know that leveling causes a ball joint problem... and leave out all the 'why' detail. They haven't checked the ball joint angle at full extension with the stock shock and compared it to the Bilstein, but I have, so I know the truth.

A new UCA that's designed to work with a 2.5" spacer lift is complete overkill for a preload lift that, in some cases, doesn't change max extension at all (Rancho). The Bilstein adds ~1/4" total extension over stock, and the spacers are usually 2.5"; way more than the ball joint can take. Totally different requirements.
 

AOFA

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I would be interested in a reply or confirmation to Trips comments. Seems logical! I just posted my own question on this subject... seems to be the biggest problem with lifting a 13-14.
 

ghost0623

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1399574359.807878.jpgI did it as insurance


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AOFA

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vast difference. Thanks Ghost!
 

UneasyJmitchell

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The aftermarket UCAs look much beefier, but the problem isnt the steel, its the joint. Why do they make them look beefier? Im guessing they make the steel part stronger as well as the joint stronger. Duh, LOL.
 

Djeazie

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I understand wanting to err on the side of caution, it won't hurt anything but your wallet. That's an easy, safe option if you don't have the time or ambition to fully understand the problem. Most of the people I see recommending UCAs can't really explain the problem. They just know that leveling causes a ball joint problem... and leave out all the 'why' detail. They haven't checked the ball joint angle at full extension with the stock shock and compared it to the Bilstein, but I have, so I know the truth.

A new UCA that's designed to work with a 2.5" spacer lift is complete overkill for a preload lift that, in some cases, doesn't change max extension at all (Rancho). The Bilstein adds ~1/4" total extension over stock, and the spacers are usually 2.5"; way more than the ball joint can take. Totally different requirements.

I understand that you think they are a waste of money. My point is that when they pop they are no longer operating in the way they were intended from the factory. Also when they pop your alignment is off. If they pop one way whats saying they wouldnt pop the other way? You get into a situation offroad where your are articulating big time and guess what, now are you sure your ok with ball joints that might stay in the control arm?!

So everytime your ball joint moves in the control arm your front end geometry changes. This is not ideal, nor is it safe. I have not heard of anyone actually having them pop completely out YET. But this is a new issue with newer trucks that have lower miles and really havent been used. Give it time, once these ball joints move around inside control arm enough to totally give out they will and people who didnt want to fix an unsafe issue will suffer.

Call me crazy but it just makes sense to do it right. It is not a waste of money. Once we start modding our trucks with one new part we have to understand your pushing the limits of another part. You buy a lift kit and bigger tires your pushing other parts that just were no designed to handle the additional load. They wont break or wear right away, but they will wear out sooner. Hence is the case with these ball joints. They werent designed to work at these angles and once they wear and are pushed to their limits they will fail. Hopefully they fail hen you are stopped because if that ball joint comes out ant any speed its not gonna be pretty.
 
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