2014 1500 Tandem Axle Trailer Towing

[Travis Weddington]

I recently purchased a 7x16 tandem axle cargo trailer. Trailer gross weight is 7500. Truck is 4x4 with Zone 4” lift, Fox shocks, and new heavy duty coils in the rear. Stock hitch. Tow/Haul mode but no brake controller. Trailer came with anti sway weight distribution hitch but I can’t use it due to the lift on the truck. My question is, assuming the trailer is loaded to max capacity, should I invest in the drop hitch anti sway/weight distribution hitch receiver and electric brake controller? Will be towing it from Washington DC to Pascagoula Mississippi. Andersen Hitches makes an 8 inch drop WDH but it’s a bit $$$. Thanks for your advice and inputs.

 

[BadCJ7]

I have a 7x16 Tandem axle that I pull with 3 bikes in it. I don’t use a weight distribution hitch but I do have the Airlift 1000 airbags in the rear coils. I would recommend the brake controller. I bought it at a local dealer and installed the factory one myself. Only took about 45 minutes then had them add the dealer code for it to work. Altogether about $350 but worth every penny for safety and a clean install.


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[VernDiesel]

I would consider a WDH with built in sway control mandatory to tow this safely at highway speed and over the Appalations. In fact Ram recommends a WDH when over 5k. I have been using the Andersen for years and would recommend it but their is also others that would work well. Weight distribution is the biggest key to your equipment or combined rigs safety. Use a CAT scale set your tongue weight to the required 10 to 15%. Also generally get your steer weight back to about 3,200 with trailer attached.

Airbags would also be helpful in making this a more comfortable and more stable towing experience. I don't use the in coil bags anymore. I use the better axle to frame setup. Timbergrove has an excellent setup for about $350 that you can install yourself with no drilling cutting. It supports dampens and helps control the suspension especially when road gets rough. With enough tongue weight (at 7,500 you want to set it up for about 12% IE 900 pounds tongue weight) plus a bed & cab load the improved road compliance, ride and control over rough pavement can be dramatic.

The TBC would be the last of the three that I buy but it is very useful. Order the factory unit direct for more reasonable pricing & self install but you will still need the dealer to upload software for it. Use it to help control downhill speed and keep your truck brakes cool for strong emergency stopping. Use it to immediately stop any trailer sway. I even have the additional benefit of a tune provided turbo brake on my Ecodiesel and still use the TBC to supplement my turbo brake for downhill speed control for 7k plus trailers when coming down a longer grade. Even though I tow commercially with my ED my original brakes went 293k and my second set only 177k. My TBC paid for itself in saved brake jobs as well as peace of mind.

 

[GsRAM]

If your planning on loading the trailer up with 7500 lbs actual weight having some sort of trailer brake control is a MUST, regardless of the tow vehicle your using. That is a lot of weight for a 1500 series truck, heck it even is for my 2500.

An excellent aftermarket brake control is the prodigy P3 if you don't want to get the factory itbc, which is also very good.

Look online. Curt makes a large (very deep) drop shank for a 2" wdh that might work for you. I have it on my 2500 for my tt and still have about 3 or 4 holes I could go down if need be. It should be compatible with most she's, check the hole size and spacing to be sure. Wdh at those weights is also a MUST. Good luck.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

I pulled a 7x16 cargo trailer without a weight distributing hitch but it was not at max capacity, maybe 5500 lbs total. I was only making short trips (moved 6 miles down the road) and it did just fine. Maxing our and going a long distance calls for weigh distribution and sway control IMHO.

My truck is lifted 4” on 35’s and the lift coils handled the weight exceptionally better than the stockers.

Lost the pics, sorry

 

[BWL]

I've pulled heavier than that across the rockies no problem. I wouldn't worry about a wdh. With the tandem axle you won't have as much tongue weight, but if the trailer has electric brakes you'll need a controller. Panic braking, hills and a little extra trailer braking to hold you straight if you get squirelly is pretty valuable.

 

[BadCJ7]

I've pulled heavier than that across the rockies no problem. I wouldn't worry about a wdh. With the tandem axle you won't have as much tongue weight, but if the trailer has electric brakes you'll need a controller. Panic braking, hills and a little extra trailer braking to hold you straight if you get squirelly is pretty valuable.

I agree. A properly loaded, tandem axle shouldn’t need a wdh. Especially only a 16 footer. Brakes are a necessity and required by most states for a trailer of that size. I would also recommend a forged, solid receiver. I picked one up at tractor supply rated to 16,000 with a 2 5/8 ball.


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[crash68]

To the OP, listen to what VernDiesel has to say, he probably has more towing miles on his current truck than everyone else on this thread combined.

I've pulled heavier than that across the rockies no problem. I wouldn't worry about a wdh. With the tandem axle you won't have as much tongue weight, but if the trailer has electric brakes you'll need a controller.

I agree. A properly loaded, tandem axle shouldn’t need a wdh. Especially only a 16 footer.

Really?? Towing 7500 lbs with no WDH. If you want to do that yourself, that's your prerogative. Neither one of you clearly have no clue what a WDH does or it's important roll in safely towing a trailer.

 

[BWL]

A wdh distributes some of the weight from the tongue to the front axle for better balance and Cornering and braking. Air bags level out the truck, but do not transfer weight to the front like a wdh. Keep in mind we're talking about a 16' tandem trailer with brakes and weight centered over the axle being pulled by a truck that is naturally heavier in the front. I also pull a compressor from time to time that weighs 8800lbs, but I can lift the hitch by hand its so well balanced and its an engineered piece of equipment that I can't shift the weight on. Would I need a wdh for that? There's not that much weight to transfer and the truck still has a little rake left. Not saying dont use one, but in this case I wouldn't call it a need.

 

[BadCJ7]

To the OP, listen to what VernDiesel has to say, he probably has more towing miles on his current truck than everyone else on this thread combined.





Really?? Towing 7500 lbs with no WDH. If you want to do that yourself, that's your prerogative. Neither one of you clearly have no clue what a WDH does or it's important roll in safely towing a trailer.

I have more miles under my belt pulling a trailer than without. Approx 2 million miles. Proper loading is the key.


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[VernDiesel]

Were all on the side of common sense and safety here. I don't think anyone would recommend against a WDH especially with built in sway control as a trailer that starts swaying down a mountain and weighs more than the truck is a risk that no one wants to take if they don't have to. But It is a fair point that this is only a 16' trailer. Its about reasonable risk and a shorter trailer generally has less leverage on the truck. Brakes you have in either case but to the addition of a separate TBC I'm all for it. As to the 8,800 pound trailer with little to no tongue weight even though its an engineered fixed weight trailer if and when you are towing it with a 6k truck a WDH would be a good piece of safety equipment. I'm sure that trailer was designed to be pulled by a much larger truck that it could not be an issue with. With some low tires or a blowout what seems stable one day becomes a mess when the 8,800 trailer starts pushing the light rear of a 1/2 ton truck from side to side.

Proper loading is the key combined with at least adequate equipment. Its our experience thats suppose to help provide that for OP. Probably like you I was sliding tandems on big truck trailers to meet scale house requirements long prior to adjusting WDHs to make a pick up truck meet scale house axle weight requirements. As I sometimes have to do as a travel trailer transporter.

 

[BWL]

Yeah, the compressor is usually pulled by a 1 ton. I Dial up the brakes so it actually helps the truck brake when its behind my little 1/2 ton. Had a trailer tire blow out once on it and it was ok, but I'm always pulling into brake checks as that is what I worry about. Lot of weight to stop if they fail. If I had to pull it myself much I'd go back up to a 1 ton. I'm guessing you'd prefer to go bigger, but hauling as many miles as you do commercially the fuel savings running the eco diesel surely adds up and you're clearly experienced enough to handle it so might as well put more cash in your pocket.

 

[Papamugger]

WDH (with sway control) and brake controller should be required for pulling a trailer of that weight. I travel with a 26 foot Airstream (6500 lbs) and approach max load limits when I include hitch wt and what is in the truck bed. Its all about safety, for you and the other vehicles on the road. I have a Blue Ox which has sway control built in, and there are other effective brands on the market, choose a good one. I also have the Airlift 1000 bags which will add some stability. My 2016 Ram has the 3.92 which is beneficial at higher altitudes and hilly country.

 

[BadCJ7]

I was simply telling him that a 16 foot tandem axle trailer with a 4 inch lift is not required nor do I think it’s a necessity since he stated the hitch was expensive and didn’t sound like he wanted to invest in it. I have the same exact setup and have zero problems without a WDH. With a longer trailer (20’ and above) I would probably consider it. Proper weight distribution is key (along with proper securement). You don’t want a load to shift while going around a curve. Of course in my line of work I understand weight distribution and securement as well as the handling of a vehicle and trailer more than the average person who rarely pulls a trailer. Seeing a “Uhaul” trailer hooked to a Toyota Camry cruising down the highway at 70 mph scares me more than pulling 80k in the snow because I’m sure that person doesn’t understand the dynamics of towing.

For me, I feel confident in towing without it. For others, if they feel it’s a necessity I’m not going to knock that. It’s all in the name of safety for yourself and others on the road. As far as the airbags, I know they aren’t weight distributing, but I feel they eliminate the bounce with dips in the road especially overpasses. Even though our trucks are rated for what they are, I think they feel mushy when towing. Maybe I’m just not used to it as this is my first truck with coil springs.


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