2014 Ram 5.7 Bad Lifter AGAIN!

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Wild one

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Just curious, if you were doing lifters and cam, what would you use? Thanks.
OEM lifters,cam depends on what you want out the truck. You'd be better off talking to an outfit like FRP / MMX / Matt Fikac at Moes etc,for their reconmendations on cam selection,if you're going with an aftermarket cam.
 

huntergreen

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Thanks Wildman. Hope I never have this issue, but you never know.
 
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jws123

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Are you sure it's the lifter? The sound could be an exhaust manifold broken bolt
Its a lifter no noise when cold only once its at operating temp once i fix my phone im going to upload the vid I have of it.
 
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jws123

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Welp I now have bigger problems my WIN/ignition just broke been wonky past few wekes now No start cant get it into accesory if i juggle it sometimes it will just start I guess im use to higher mileage trucks where all this crap was replaced lmfaoo miss my 2011.
 

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Wild one

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Oem "hellcat" lifters $500 for 4: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-11926-hellcat-lifters-4-and-tray.aspx

Comp cams "better than hellcat" lifters $493 for the set: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-856y-16

*Edited to add prices

Hellcat is in quotes bc I'm aware all the oem ones are the same now. What I'm not aware of is which of these two I'm going with bc I'm about to change mine I'm comparing prices/stock on hand everywhere.
The Comp lifters don't have a great rep on the hi-po car pages ,lots of high horsepower guys have had issues with them,if you can get your hands on the OEM lifters go with them instead.
 

jelih

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The Comp lifters don't have a great rep on the hi-po car pages ,lots of high horsepower guys have had issues with them,if you can get your hands on the OEM lifters go with them instead.
Ok you twisted my arm. TSP doesn't show whether or not they're in stock, but they're ordered nonetheless, along with new cam and mds delete kit.

I've seen you mention on other threads that babying it doesn't do it any favors. I goose it from time to time, but mostly I drive pretty tame. I leave for work just after 5am when there's not so much traffic, and I usually just put the cruise on 65 and chill. The drive home is much more congested and stop/go. I do have 4.10 gears tho so rippems are higher than they were with the old 3.21s. I ordered a choppy cam (I want to SOUND fast lol, but I don't care so much anymore about BEING fast, at least not in this truck) so it's going to get a tune for that and for the MDS delete, plus I want the idle bumped up (if the cam tune doesn't do it already) and a few other changes.

My question is, with the higher idle, and therefor increased splash on the cam at idle, does it still need to be driven harder or will that be sufficient to keep the lifters lubed and happy? Most days, the truck idles 5-10 minutes when I remote start it in the morning, another 10-15 minutes in the parking lot when I get to work, and then another 5-10 minutes when I remote start it again after work, so 35 minutes max per day, 4-5 days a week. I could probably get back into driving it more aggressively. I used to wring the shyt out of my gti and forced myself to drive more conservatively in the truck in attempt to avoid the kinds of repairs I'm about to make, but we see how that worked out.

I also sprung for the standard volume Melling oil pump. I'm aware the installed spring raises the pressure, but I can't wrap my brain around how the pressure increases without also increasing the volume. Apparently there's an included standard pressure spring, but I haven't yet taken the time to learn how one might be more beneficial over the other.
 

Wild one

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Ok you twisted my arm. TSP doesn't show whether or not they're in stock, but they're ordered nonetheless, along with new cam and mds delete kit.

I've seen you mention on other threads that babying it doesn't do it any favors. I goose it from time to time, but mostly I drive pretty tame. I leave for work just after 5am when there's not so much traffic, and I usually just put the cruise on 65 and chill. The drive home is much more congested and stop/go. I do have 4.10 gears tho so rippems are higher than they were with the old 3.21s. I ordered a choppy cam (I want to SOUND fast lol, but I don't care so much anymore about BEING fast, at least not in this truck) so it's going to get a tune for that and for the MDS delete, plus I want the idle bumped up (if the cam tune doesn't do it already) and a few other changes.

My question is, with the higher idle, and therefor increased splash on the cam at idle, does it still need to be driven harder or will that be sufficient to keep the lifters lubed and happy? Most days, the truck idles 5-10 minutes when I remote start it in the morning, another 10-15 minutes in the parking lot when I get to work, and then another 5-10 minutes when I remote start it again after work, so 35 minutes max per day, 4-5 days a week. I could probably get back into driving it more aggressively. I used to wring the shyt out of my gti and forced myself to drive more conservatively in the truck in attempt to avoid the kinds of repairs I'm about to make, but we see how that worked out.

I also sprung for the standard volume Melling oil pump. I'm aware the installed spring raises the pressure, but I can't wrap my brain around how the pressure increases without also increasing the volume. Apparently there's an included standard pressure spring, but I haven't yet taken the time to learn how one might be more beneficial over the other.
You don't have to beat them into the ground,but don't drive it like Grandpa either. Tuner should bump your idle rpm if you ask him. Make sure you get either the factory plastic delete plugs,or the gold plated billet aluminium Stanke block off plugs to replace the mds solenoids.If you're getting the factory ones,make sure they're actual Mopar mds delete plugs. There are knock off ones on Amazon/Ebay that are famous for leaking,but if you buy the mds kit through TSP,hopefully they'll be legit Mopar plugs. Stick with the stock pressure spring and bump the idle up to 750 rpm. How come you went for the high pressure pump instead of the high volumne pump,the HV utilizes a bigger/wider gearotor pump,the high pressure pump is basically a stock pump with a stiffer bypass spring ,if you use the 65psi spring it's basically the same as your stock pump.
Try and mininiumize the idle time,as 35 minutes per day is starting to creep up in idle time
 

jelih

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How come you went for the high pressure pump instead of the high volumne pump
I was going to go with the HV pump, but I was reading on here about how it didn't offer much benefit unless you used the johnson lifters. In fact, if you search for "johnson lifters" on this site, the 3rd result is you back on Christmas day saying that the johnson lifters (that were outside of my total budget), were the only thing that justified the use of the high volume pump on the 5.7, so I went with the SV pump bc it was $182.05 delivered with a discount code from Autozone.com
 

Wild one

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I was going to go with the HV pump, but I was reading on here about how it didn't offer much benefit unless you used the johnson lifters. In fact, if you search for "johnson lifters" on this site, the 3rd result is you back on Christmas day saying that the johnson lifters (that were outside of my total budget), were the only thing that justified the use of the high volume pump on the 5.7, so I went with the SV pump bc it was $182.05 delivered with a discount code from Autozone.com
Basically all you've got is a stock pump.If your original pump is in good shape,there was probably no reason to replace it,but if you already have the melling pump,use the 65 psi spring in it.
 

jelih

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Lol email from autozone says it is now "delayed" before it has even shipped. I go look on the website and it says it's gonna ship from a vendor, and can't be cancelled. Now, I don't know when any of the parts will get here, but I can always leave the stock pump on bc at the moment it's still working fine, and return the melling pump whenever it arrives. But I also don't know the life expectancy out of the stock pump and the odometer is currently sitting just north of 160k miles. I suppose I could take it off while I'm knee deep in it and if it looks good just put it back and keep the melling as a spare.

I know you race and all that so I'll heed your advice about using the stock psi spring if I change the pump, but what even happens with the higher psi spring? I'll take at face value that there's apparently no benefits, but what are the potential downsides? All I can think of is maybe if the flow rate through the oil filter media is reduced when it gets close to time to change the oil, that the increased pressure could prematurely force unfiltered oil through the filter bypass, but that is just really just a wild guess on my part.

If I had the budget for it, I'd install the hv pump with the johnson lifters, but for now I'm just going to cross my fingers and toes and hope that these new parts last. In the meantime I guess I'll split the difference on how I used to drive the gti vs how I've been driving the Ram. I've decided that in another 2-3 years I'm going to sell the truck for something 4wd. Might be another Ram, might be a 30 year old 4runner, but the goal after that is to buy a chunk of property far from the city and I'd prefer to have a 4wd before I actually need it.
 

Wild one

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Lol email from autozone says it is now "delayed" before it has even shipped. I go look on the website and it says it's gonna ship from a vendor, and can't be cancelled. Now, I don't know when any of the parts will get here, but I can always leave the stock pump on bc at the moment it's still working fine, and return the melling pump whenever it arrives. But I also don't know the life expectancy out of the stock pump and the odometer is currently sitting just north of 160k miles. I suppose I could take it off while I'm knee deep in it and if it looks good just put it back and keep the melling as a spare.

I know you race and all that so I'll heed your advice about using the stock psi spring if I change the pump, but what even happens with the higher psi spring? I'll take at face value that there's apparently no benefits, but what are the potential downsides? All I can think of is maybe if the flow rate through the oil filter media is reduced when it gets close to time to change the oil, that the increased pressure could prematurely force unfiltered oil through the filter bypass, but that is just really just a wild guess on my part.

If I had the budget for it, I'd install the hv pump with the johnson lifters, but for now I'm just going to cross my fingers and toes and hope that these new parts last. In the meantime I guess I'll split the difference on how I used to drive the gti vs how I've been driving the Ram. I've decided that in another 2-3 years I'm going to sell the truck for something 4wd. Might be another Ram, might be a 30 year old 4runner, but the goal after that is to buy a chunk of property far from the city and I'd prefer to have a 4wd before I actually need it.
If you have time,and you have the stock pump off,they're easy to disassemble. If it's not showing any deep gouges or scoring,throw it back together and run it.You can add a 0.060 shim to the stock spring if you want a bit more pressure
 

Wild one

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Use a couple of this guys video's to give you an working knowledge of the pumps before you take yours apart.
Watch the 2nd video completely,as he has some good info on removing the pump


 
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Wild one

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How it sounds COLD.


How it sounds hot at operating temp has been way louder then this at times.
Well it's not a bottem end knock,so that leaves either lifters or injectors. Have you ran your hand over the injectors when it's running to see if one injector is noisy or feels differant from the others when its firing.If you run a stethascope on the injectors it'll help you tell if they all sound the same to
 
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jws123

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Well it's not a bottem end knock,so that leaves either lifters or injectors. Have you ran your hand over the injectors when it's running to see if one injector is noisy or feels differant from the others when its firing.If you run a stethascope on the injectors it'll help you tell if they all sound the same to
ya ruled out a injector did the kill test to each cylinder sounds the same also not sure that a injector would only sound loud when hot idles smooth as butter.
 

Wild one

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ya ruled out a injector did the kill test to each cylinder sounds the same also not sure that a injector would only sound loud when hot idles smooth as butter.
Have you pulled that valve cover and checked to see if everythings all moving the same amount,and you don't have any broken springs etc. Definitely doesn't sound like an exhaust leak either,so it has to be something inside the engine that's feeling a bit ill
 
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