Lifter failure again… how to bulletproof?

[Brandonc1]

I have a 2014 Ram 1500 that had lifter failure at 220k. When this happened, I was able to get a parts truck with 70k and swap the motors. After putting 3,500 miles on it, this engine also has lifter failure. I don't want to deal with this lifter failure again. I've been doing research for prevention methods and all I can see is a higher volume oil pump (Hellcat Oil Pump) and non-MDS lifters.

Does anyone know of any other preventative measures?

 

[zrock]

you first mistake was purchasing a used engine... Myself if and when mine go im just going to purchase a new engine from a good aftermarket builder was already quoted $6500CAD for the engine.

 

[DILLIGAF]

HC oil pump isnt needed, A simple tune idle bump does the same. This is straight from the top tuners on High Performance Ram.
Using 5W30 R.L or equivalant does a better job

2009-2023 5.7 FRP MDS Delete Kit WITH TUNING

The MDS delete kit will cover all MDS equipped cars/trucks/Jeeps from 2011-2023. TURNING OFF MDS IS REQUIRED FOR THIS CAMSHAFT TO WORK PROPERLY. THE TUNING INCLUDED ONLY COVERS TURNING OFF MDS AND THE CREDITS REQUIRED TO DO SO. PCM UNLOCK SERVICE INCLUDED WITH ALL 15+ PACKAGES. SMART CABLE...

frptuning.com

Youll need HP tuners as well , No one uses Diablows anymore.

 

[Sillygoose]

HC oil pump isnt needed, A simple tune idle bump does the same.

this.

 

[EdGs]

Diablows.

 

[Brandonc1]

Still go with the non MDS lifters ?

 

[Sillygoose]

mds or not doesn't matter with regard to the lifter failures - consensus is it's inadequate oil pressure at the stock idle rpm

 

[J-13GTP]

Agree on the MDS lifters not being the issue. Mine went down and the worst one was a non MDS lifter. I went ahead and replaced my oil pump with a High volume from melling but my engine also had 180k on it. Dont buy anything other then stock lifters and cam if you choose go with stock. I had to learn the hard way.

 

[Wild one]

mds or not doesn't matter with regard to the lifter failures - consensus is it's inadequate oil pressure at the stock idle rpm

There's no pressurized oil to the cam lobes or lifter rollers,they're still oiled by crank splash,and the only way to get more crank splash onto the lobe and wheel is to up the idle rpm and to drive it a bit aggressively.
As Dilligaf stated the stock pump also ups the idle pressure if you up the idle rpm

 

[Wild one]

I have a 2014 Ram 1500 that had lifter failure at 220k. When this happened, I was able to get a parts truck with 70k and swap the motors. After putting 3,500 miles on it, this engine also has lifter failure. I don't want to deal with this lifter failure again. I've been doing research for prevention methods and all I can see is a higher volume oil pump (Hellcat Oil Pump) and non-MDS lifters.

Does anyone know of any other preventative measures?

Forget the hellcat pump,instead up the idle rpm to 725/750.The guys swapping late model Hemi's into earlier chassis's are even upping the idle rpm to 900,but that might be a touch on the high side with an automatic behind the engine,but 750 rpm and an automatic work good.Your 14 is easy to up the idle rpm on with just an old T1000 Diablo,by adjusting the stock parameters

 

[Bob1313]

A close friend and longtime Mopar freak has done tons of research on the lifter problem now that he has retired and has the time. Insists that the major cause seems to be too much time idling. Cams and lifters are at the end of the oil galleries, the last things to get oil. Start your truck and drive it. Don't leave it idle to keep warm, rev it up if you need the heat.
Old VW air cooled had a similar problem. If you putted around, #3 would overheat and score. Solution was to drive it like you stole it.

 

[Wild one]

A close friend and longtime Mopar freak has done tons of research on the lifter problem now that he has retired and has the time. Insists that the major cause seems to be too much time idling. Cams and lifters are at the end of the oil galleries, the last things to get oil. Start your truck and drive it. Don't leave it idle to keep warm, rev it up if you need the heat.
Old VW air cooled had a similar problem. If you putted around, #3 would overheat and score. Solution was to drive it like you stole it.

Some places you need to let it idle to warm up.Where i live it's not that uncommon to see -40,you're not jumping in it and driving it away at those temps with-out it idling for a bit to warm up.
Same as some places that see 100+ temps,and you'll let it idle to cool off.
Idling it is a known issue,but in some parts of the world,idling is a fact of life.
Your best bet is to up the idle rpm from the stock 550/560 rpm to somewhere around 750 rpm

 

[chri5k]

Johnson lifters with axle oiling. Pricey but have a hole drilled to provide lubrication to the roller axle.

 

[Wild one]

Johnson lifters with axle oiling. Pricey but have a hole drilled to provide lubrication to the roller axle.

They'd be the only thing in a 5.7 that would benefit from a Hellcat oil pump,as they do leak off enough pressure,that the hellcats high volumn pump is justified on a 5.7

 

[nascar72]

Forget the hellcat pump,instead up the idle rpm to 725/750.The guys swapping late model Hemi's into earlier chassis's are even upping the idle rpm to 900,but that might be a touch on the high side with an automatic behind the engine,but 750 rpm and an automatic work good.Your 14 is easy to up the idle rpm on with just an old T1000 Diablo,by adjusting the stock parameters

Mine's a 2500 '08 with the 5.7 and rpms are at around 750 in D with engine at full operating temp.

 

[Casper]

mds or not doesn't matter with regard to the lifter failures - consensus is it's inadequate oil pressure at the stock idle rpm

Bingo!
The Hemi doesn’t flow enough at idle and the watery stock oil for MDS doesn’t leave enough lubricant film during prolonged idle.
Once over 1500 rpm there is more than enough oil thrown onto cam and rollers, but stop and go is ut-oh for 5.7L Hemi.

 

[Ludville1]

Forget the hellcat pump,instead up the idle rpm to 725/750.The guys swapping late model Hemi's into earlier chassis's are even upping the idle rpm to 900,but that might be a touch on the high side with an automatic behind the engine,but 750 rpm and an automatic work good.Your 14 is easy to up the idle rpm on with just an old T1000 Diablo,by adjusting the stock parameters

Rick, I have a Diablo T1000 tuner for my 2009. So when you say "up the idle rpm to 750", does that mean 750 rpm in park/neutral or in gear? Fully warmed up? Thanks, Steve.

 

[Wild one]

Rick, I have a Diablo T1000 tuner for my 2009. So when you say "up the idle rpm to 750", does that mean 750 rpm in park/neutral or in gear? Fully warmed up? Thanks, Steve.

I have all my Chrcyo's set to idle at roughly 750 in drive when hot Steve

 

[Ludville1]

I have all my Chrcyo's set to idle at roughly 750 in drive when hot Steve

OK thank you!

 

[wes8398]

Some places you need to let it idle to warm up.Where i live it's not that uncommon to see -40,you're not jumping in it and driving it away at those temps with-out it idling for a bit to warm up.
Same as some places that see 100+ temps,and you'll let it idle to cool off.
Idling it is a known issue,but in some parts of the world,idling is a fact of life.
Your best bet is to up the idle rpm from the stock 550/560 rpm to somewhere around 750 rpm

From someone who lives in a place where winter temps get into the -20 to -30 range and summer temps get well over 100, I can tell you for a fact that idling is indeed *not* necessary in either of those situations. It's not the 60's anymore. Vehicles are meant to be *driven* (albeit gingerly, for a bit) to warm up/cool down. Once your high idle drops, put that thing in gear and start moving. Sitting there idling isn't doing anything for the rest of your lubricants/moving parts, and it's extremely inefficient at actually warming up the engine. The extended time running "open loop" (see: very rich) isn't good for components, either.