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Timsdually

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It's not that the dealer does not know there is a problem.

My issue is they had it for 6 workdays and all they had done was disconnect my dashcam as a troubleshooting technique.

I expected more from them in the way of troubleshooting in 6 days.

They did install my Mopar bed step for free, LOL...
Look into loaner vehicle from them or if you are covered for rental reimbursement.
Otherwise, time for a different dealer.
 

Tulecreeper

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Only thing I would add is to make sure the doors are closed and locked and have waited about an hour before pulling fuses under the hood to give time for all the modules to go to sleep. I would also suggest taking a picture of your fuse panel for later reference and as you pull each fuse, leave them out until done as reinserting them can sometimes also wake up a module.

I would also add that if you have a under hood lamp, pull it also. 4.5 amps is about what a average automotive incandescent bulb pulls also.
No sir. Maybe .45 amps, but 4.5 amps would be a 54 watt 12 volt bulb.
 

Jimmy07

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4.5 amps is exactly what the current draw is when one module is waking up all the other modules.
Pull the 20 amp fuse out of the weatherproof fuse holder that is in the big wire bundle by the outside of the fuse box towards the bottom of it first, and let us know if it stops that draw after you pull that fuse.
 
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nevinc

nevinc

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As long as I run my truck daily it seems it will start normally with the push button.

I checked my battery voltage with a multimeter today after trying to remote start it and it was at 11.8 volts and would not start remotely.

It does however start normally from inside.

I guess I am stuck keeping it plugged into my battery tender as if it were some sort of diesel on a cold winter's night.
 

Dean2

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Remote start will not work at 11.8. Needs 12.1 or more. What was the voltage 10 minutes after you parked? I cannot believe they can't track down that big a parasitic draw. Might be inclined to go to a good electrical shop and make the dealer pay the bill. Mightsee what they have to say about that option.
 
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nevinc

nevinc

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Per the notes on the dealer sheet that they gave me when I picked it up last time:

"Verify IOD, verified. Unplugged all aftermarket devices (dash campulling minor draw) Let vehicle sit overnight. Vehicle is pulling .3 amps during sleep cycle. Check service infor for any related TSB's or recalls related to concern. No related TSB's or recalls to IOD issue. Maximus charge/test battery. Passed test. let vehicle sit overnight with dashcam unplugged. Vehicle did not die overnight."

They expect me to believe the dash cam is the issue when I know it is not. It was dying overnight before I even installed it.

Here is a sample of the voltage tests I did on 3/5 and 3/6/24

10:30 - 12.35 Amps
12:30 - 12.05
Drove it 20 minutes to store and back.
14:30 - 12.25
16:30 - 12.45
18:30 - 12.4
20:30 - 12.35

3/6/24
09:30 - 11.9
11:30 - 11.9
13:30 - 11.9
15:30 - 12.15
17:30 - 12.15
19:30 - 12.15

I am retired, I could do this all day every day if I wanted. I should not have to.
 

Dean2

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Per the notes on the dealer sheet that they gave me when I picked it up last time:

"Verify IOD, verified. Unplugged all aftermarket devices (dash campulling minor draw) Let vehicle sit overnight. Vehicle is pulling .3 amps during sleep cycle. Check service infor for any related TSB's or recalls related to concern. No related TSB's or recalls to IOD issue. Maximus charge/test battery. Passed test. let vehicle sit overnight with dashcam unplugged. Vehicle did not die overnight."

They expect me to believe the dash cam is the issue when I know it is not. It was dying overnight before I even installed it.

Here is a sample of the voltage tests I did on 3/5 and 3/6/24

10:30 - 12.35 Amps
12:30 - 12.05
Drove it 20 minutes to store and back.
14:30 - 12.25
16:30 - 12.45
18:30 - 12.4
20:30 - 12.35

3/6/24
09:30 - 11.9
11:30 - 11.9
13:30 - 11.9
15:30 - 12.15
17:30 - 12.15
19:30 - 12.15

I am retired, I could do this all day every day if I wanted. I should not have to.
I think what you are listing is volts, not amps. If I am coorect, your voltages ARE WAY off. You should be 12.7 to 12.8 at full charge. So if the battery sits on the charger and isn't reading 12.7 a few minutes after the charger, should be 13.8 or so with the charger running, is removed then the battery is kackaa. If it is at 12.7 and drops to 12 in a few hours something is drawing a hell of a lot more than .3 amps. On top of that even .3 amp draw is way too high. Should not be over .04 amps or 40 milliamps at rest.
 
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nevinc

nevinc

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Yes, sorry VOLTS. I haven't tested the amp pull between the battery and the negative cable recently.
 
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nevinc

nevinc

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No, not yet.

I am waiting for the weather to break (poor excuse I know) to begin testing the amperage draw when it is asleep.

I have watched a couple of videos to learn how to get a good reading.

Currently I have a battery tender plugged into it when I am home just to keep it from dying overnight.

I am also going to return it to the dealer (for the third time) to have them investigate as well.
 
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