3.5" 8 ohm speakers

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PowrRam

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  • There is no easy way to mount them as the holes for the screws do not line up with the holes in the Ram dashboard.
  • The three models I looked at had low sensitivity, meaning they probably wouldn't be as loud as the stock speakers.
  • The frequency response started rolling off or becoming "jumpy" after 2,000 Hz.

I say "nay".
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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  • There is no easy way to mount them as the holes for the screws do not line up with the holes in the Ram dashboard.
  • The three models I looked at had low sensitivity, meaning they probably wouldn't be as loud as the stock speakers.
  • The frequency response started rolling off or becoming "jumpy" after 2,000 Hz.
I say "nay".
Yeah I noticed that you would have to "modify" them to get them to fit.
 

WilliamS

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Raw drivers are a great replacement for the stockers. If you have a right angle power driver it wouldnt take but a second to make them fit.
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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Raw drivers are a great replacement for the stockers. If you have a right angle power driver it wouldnt take but a second to make them fit.
Got to thinking about it, but you could bend the extra tabs not needed and maybe break them off. I'd be scared to cut them because of the metal shavings that could get in the vc. But, who knows unless someone tries them?
 

WilliamS

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Got to thinking about it, but you could bend the extra tabs not needed and maybe break them off. I'd be scared to cut them because of the metal shavings that could get in the vc. But, who knows unless someone tries them?

Sheet metal shears, no shavings and easy to manipulate
 

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I would just grab a set of $30 kickers and add a 10w 4ohm resistor. I looked at the PE site and listed a few 8 ohm speakers that were options in one of these upgrade threads, but decided to go the resistor route. At 10 watts/4 ohm heat won't be an issue and you get a reasonably priced speaker designed to drop into the mounting location that will sound much nicer that the paper cone oem speaker. A bit of soldering and you are good to go.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/ho...ftermarket-dash-speakers.125742/#post-1810037
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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I would just grab a set of $30 kickers and add a 10w 4ohm resistor. I looked at the PE site and listed a few 8 ohm speakers that were options in one of these upgrade threads, but decided to go the resistor route. At 10 watts/4 ohm heat won't be an issue and you get a reasonably priced speaker designed to drop into the mounting location that will sound much nicer that the paper cone oem speaker. A bit of soldering and you are good to go.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/ho...ftermarket-dash-speakers.125742/#post-1810037
That's what I'm going to do to my Hertz 3.5's atm, but I found these and thought if someone was going to amp the system, some of these might be an alternative since some have a higher RMS rating and are 8 ohm. Maybe someone will try these and chime in on how they modified them and how they sound. Dayton makes quality speakers, so that fear is gone. Just wondering how they'd sound without a tweeter.
 

WilliamS

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That's what I'm going to do to my Hertz 3.5's atm, but I found these and thought if someone was going to amp the system, some of these might be an alternative since some have a higher RMS rating and are 8 ohm. Maybe someone will try these and chime in on how they modified them and how they sound. Dayton makes quality speakers, so that fear is gone. Just wondering how they'd sound without a tweeter.

Some speakers can reach way up into the tweeter range and sound very smooth. Those are usually crossover over much higher to keep the woofer surface under more control. If it were me, and your going to run the full range I’d get a quality full range speaker with a tweeter not a raw driver. I plan to run tweeterless soon but I’ll have my door speakers running 60-2500, and the bamboo tang band is a 3.5 inch speaker I willl tune from 2500 all the way out past 20k! My morel speakers are good, but I think I can do better
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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Some speakers can reach way up into the tweeter range and sound very smooth. Those are usually crossover over much higher to keep the woofer surface under more control. If it were me, and your going to run the full range I’d get a quality full range speaker with a tweeter not a raw driver. I plan to run tweeterless soon but I’ll have my door speakers running 60-2500, and the bamboo tang band is 3.5 from 2500 all the way out! My motel speakers are good, but I think I can do better
I'm kind of throwing ideas around about possibly running components and putting the tweeter in the sail panel. Then possibly putting a set of these in the dash so the treble isn't so harsh. I think a tweeter in the sail would be the way to do it for those crisp highs and not be over bearing. I'm not too concerned with the rears as I like more of the front stage set up. I'd probably just leave the factory's back there for ambiance. I keep looking at the lc7i to put in there, but I could just as easily put in a good aftermarket head unit with the idatalink maestro and have everything that I have now with the flexibility of putting what I want in. :) I'll have to start saving the coin in a fund so mama bear doesn't catch me. lol
 

WilliamS

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I'm kind of throwing ideas around about possibly running components and putting the tweeter in the sail panel. Then possibly putting a set of these in the dash so the treble isn't so harsh. I think a tweeter in the sail would be the way to do it for those crisp highs and not be over bearing. I'm not too concerned with the rears as I like more of the front stage set up. I'd probably just leave the factory's back there for ambiance. I keep looking at the lc7i to put in there, but I could just as easily put in a good aftermarket head unit with the idatalink maestro and have everything that I have now with the flexibility of putting what I want in. :) I'll have to start saving the coin in a fund so mama bear doesn't catch me. lol

I have morel 6.5 comps in the doors, the crossover is in the door, tweeters in the sail panels and they are amped about 60 watts per side. I have no dash speakers or rear door speakers and it’s 100% clearer and brighter than the factory 6 speakers. They are crossed with a 12db crossover at 70hz. My subwoofers are crossed at 80 at 24db. I have 2 alpine type S 12’s ported on about 1200 watts rms with a remote up front. Windows down at 80 mph I can hear every note

Yes no dash and no rear speakers.
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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I have morel 6.5 comps in the doors, the crossover is in the door, tweeters in the sail panels and they are amped about 60 watts per side. I have no dash speakers or rear door speakers and it’s 100% clearer and brighter than the factory 6 speakers. They are crossed with a 12db crossover at 70hz. My subwoofers are crossed at 80 at 24db. I have 2 alpine type S 12’s ported on about 1200 watts rms with a remote up front. Windows down at 80 mph I can hear every note

Yes no dash and no rear speakers.
That's a nice set up. I was looking at some Morel's on Crutchfield's site. I've read nothing but good things about them. Is the treble smooth on those? I used to have Kicker speakers and got rid of them because they were really harsh on the tweeters. Caused listening fatigue for me. I had JBL 6x9's in the door and pushing them with the Alpine 445U amp. Not a whole lot, but enough to get it louder than I needed it. And a 10" RE Audio SCX10 single sub in a foxbox (driver's side). Thanks for sharing your system. I bet that sounds really good.
 

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That's a nice set up. I was looking at some Morel's on Crutchfield's site. I've read nothing but good things about them. Is the treble smooth on those? I used to have Kicker speakers and got rid of them because they were really harsh on the tweeters. Caused listening fatigue for me. I had JBL 6x9's in the door and pushing them with the Alpine 445U amp. Not a whole lot, but enough to get it louder than I needed it. And a 10" RE Audio SCX10 single sub in a foxbox (driver's side). Thanks for sharing your system. I bet that sounds really good.

I have had Morels in the past...I'd describe my old components as laid back and smooth, not power hungry like Dynaudio though. My type of speaker with an emphasis on realism
 

WilliamS

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That's a nice set up. I was looking at some Morel's on Crutchfield's site. I've read nothing but good things about them. Is the treble smooth on those? I used to have Kicker speakers and got rid of them because they were really harsh on the tweeters. Caused listening fatigue for me. I had JBL 6x9's in the door and pushing them with the Alpine 445U amp. Not a whole lot, but enough to get it louder than I needed it. And a 10" RE Audio SCX10 single sub in a foxbox (driver's side). Thanks for sharing your system. I bet that sounds really good.

Midrange is great, they lack on the low end for midbass, and the tweeters arent all that great up high. They are fantastic speakers, but with more knowledge I can do better now. Im going with Audifrog 6x9s and the tang band 3.5's in the dash. Im 99% certain I wont need a tweeter, but if I do I will use some AMT's.

If it were my wifes or friends cars they are perfect, but for me who drive 95% highway with the windows down to unwind from work, I do not want speakers that sound fatigued.
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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Midrange is great, they lack on the low end for midbass, and the tweeters arent all that great up high. They are fantastic speakers, but with more knowledge I can do better now. Im going with Audifrog 6x9s and the tang band 3.5's in the dash. Im 99% certain I wont need a tweeter, but if I do I will use some AMT's.

If it were my wifes or friends cars they are perfect, but for me who drive 95% highway with the windows down to unwind from work, I do not want speakers that sound fatigued.
Well, with 6.5's, you're not going to get much bass and very little midbass. I'm kicking the idea around if I should go with 6.5's since I have a sub already to cover the sub-mid bass, but I'm also a bass player and like to hear that punch from the midbass. Especially on the upper registers on a bass guitar. So I may wind up just going with 6x9's and sound deadening the doors to keep them clean. Idk. So many options to do. I'll start saving and when the time comes, I'll cross that bridge. :)
 

WilliamS

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Well, with 6.5's, you're not going to get much bass and very little midbass. I'm kicking the idea around if I should go with 6.5's since I have a sub already to cover the sub-mid bass, but I'm also a bass player and like to hear that punch from the midbass. Especially on the upper registers on a bass guitar. So I may wind up just going with 6x9's and sound deadening the doors to keep them clean. Idk. So many options to do. I'll start saving and when the time comes, I'll cross that bridge. :)

Same here, love me the initial slap/chop which is in the 100-200hz range. Problem with 6.5 is they do t have the cone to blend as you start to drop down so it goes from some to a ton of bass. As most songs will tradition from D or E then from to an A or G the 6.5s are trying to keep up


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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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Same here, love me the initial slap/chop which is in the 100-200hz range. Problem with 6.5 is they do t have the cone to blend as you start to drop down so it goes from some to a ton of bass. As most songs will tradition from D or E then from to an A or G the 6.5s are trying to keep up


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Between e & e 2nd octave on the d string on a bass guitar is the meat punch of a bassline, then you want to have them carry over the tones from there on up. It's a beautiful thing, but too many variables factor in. Speakers are just one part of the equation which could wind up costing a fortune if one's not careful. But studio mix is a bunch of it too. If a bass is not mixed in properly (i.e. and justice for all) then it's a moot point to spend so much. lol And **** on Lars while I'm at it. :D
 

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Between e & e 2nd octave on the d string on a bass guitar is the meat punch of a bassline, then you want to have them carry over the tones from there on up. It's a beautiful thing, but too many variables factor in. Speakers are just one part of the equation which could wind up costing a fortune if one's not careful. But studio mix is a bunch of it too. If a bass is not mixed in properly (i.e. and justice for all) then it's a moot point to spend so much. lol And **** on Lars while I'm at it. :D

I built new sub woofer cabinets for my church (Im the sound engineer) just to clean up the kick and bass guitar. I can shake every tile in the ceiling with about any note. Before the kick drum and bass guitar would cancel each other out, you either get one or the other, now I have all of it! Love it.
 
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sumgruuvz

sumgruuvz

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I built new sub woofer cabinets for my church (Im the sound engineer) just to clean up the kick and bass guitar. I can shake every tile in the ceiling with about any note. Before the kick drum and bass guitar would cancel each other out, you either get one or the other, now I have all of it! Love it.
What subs did you use? 2x18 cabs? Let me know. My drummer in band, who also owns the p.a. gear was kicking around the idea of new subs. He has some old Peavey 218 HDH3's??? I think. They sound like ****. lol. He was looking at some Yamaha's but wasn't sure about them. JBL's are good, but $$$.
 

WilliamS

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Used the Alpine Type S 12s that were in my truck. Built a massive TL out of them. They are run off 1 Crown UltraTech 2020 amp thats good from 8 ohm down to 2 ohm. They are crossed over at 120hz. The JBL 15 inch mains are crossed at 110hz up. Gives me a ton of low end, but because the mains are so dang big they can get into that 110hz range easily and not distort as the slap from the bass and the main snap from the Kick drum are up there and the rumble comes from the subs. I got the Transfer Line specs from a thread on DIYMA. They are smooth and strong. My church isnt big so we dont need a ton of cone area to make it rumble. Im ditching the 15 inch mains soon and using a small line array of 6.5's and tweeters.

Crown Amp Specs because its amazing!
Stereo 975W @ 2 ohms • 660W @ 4 ohms • 400W @ 8 ohms • Bridged 1950W @ 4 ohms •1320W @ 8 ohms
 
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