5w20 vs 5w30

[Wild one]

Why is it then that my oil pressure was reading 40-50 psi with 5w-20 and 70-80 psi with 5w-30? That's significantly different.

I agree there's something whacked about those numbers,not a chance in hell (2) 5W oils that are the same brand are going to see 30 psi differance on cold start up. Tell us the whole story,as i'm guessing you're leaving abit of the puzzle missing,like outdoor temps were 40 degree's differant or differant filters,there's something missing from your story there lad.

 

[Hookedup87]

I had the same noise with my 2013 as well. But on my 2013 I had JBA shorties. With the thin walls of the headers the sound was so loud it sounded like a diesel until it warmed up. Lol

 

[Hookedup87]

I’m sorry, when I say the same noise I am referring to the cold piston slap.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Just switched from PUP 0W-40 to RL 5W-30, no difference in idle or running oil pressure. Granted the RL is close to 40 vis at running temp, but is still thinner than PUP. Same at cold temp. 55 psi running, 35 psi idling.

Something doesn't add up on your oils. They must have very different vis values. Did you look them up? Viscosity @ 100C and 0C or colder.

 

[joesstripclub]

Has anyone every verified the EVIC oil pressure reading are accurate? I do see the numbers move around so it makes me feel like I can trust it, but I am used to my 350z which has an analog oil pressure gauge and its constantly moving. I see almost 100 psi when accelerating when cold but levels out to 30 to 60 psi range when hot. I never see my truck over 60 psi, it is usually in the 30 to 60 psi range hot or cold. Maybe different style of oil pump?

 

[62Blazer]

Why is it then that my oil pressure was reading 40-50 psi with 5w-20 and 70-80 psi with 5w-30? That's significantly different.

Absolutely no way that 5w-20 versus 5w-30 would cause this with all other variables being equal.

Besides, I don't even think these vehicles have a true oil pressure sensors. Most vehicles made in the last 10-15 years just have a oil pressure "switch"....basically as long as you have at least a minimum amount of pressure it turns on and tells the ECM and it tells what the calculated pressure should be. So it's not a true oil pressure reading and no better than a dummy light, but people feel more comfortable with a gauge that actually appears to move. Found this out in my previous job performing automobile testing. We did a lot of work with Chrysler and toasted a brand new Cummins in a 3500 dually. The oil pressure gauge in the truck showed normal pressure, but the engine locked up due to lack of oil. When we pulled the pan the oil pick up tube was not fully seated so it was picking up just enough oil to trigger the switch but not enough to keep the engine alive. If you don't believe me start searching the internet on this topic and you will see the same thing.

 

[Hcamper]

So book says when truck and camper weight is over 14,000 miles to use 5/30. So I don't pull camper all the time. I use 5/20 now wonder if I should use 5/30? 2013 5.7

 

[Wild one]

So book says when truck and camper weight is over 14,000 miles to use 5/30. So I don't pull camper all the time. I use 5/20 now wonder if I should use 5/30? 2013 5.7

My big owners manual also says this,if you read the note at the bottom.This is from the 700 page manual which you won't have.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Fiat?! What does Fiat of all companies know about Chrysler Hemi Engine design? They got a lot of nerve. What's next - Peugeot specs?

 

[Octane]

Fiat?! What does Fiat of all companies know about Chrysler Hemi Engine design? They got a lot of nerve. What's next - Peugeot specs?

The italians were responsible for making the jeep wranglers more luxurious inside.I was surprised a few years ago when I took a look inside of one.Yuppy college kid commuter vehicles now mostly.

 

[Octane]

The Fiat Italians figured that since most of those Jeeps were used on the streets instead of off-road like they were supposedly designed for. That they needed to dress up the interior some. I call it cityfy them if you will.Or yuppy- fy. Lol. The point is whether it be them screwing with a hemi engine specs or messing with the design of the Jeep wranglers. There's nothing that qualifies them to do that in my opinion

 

[HEMIMANN]

The italians were responsible for making the jeep wranglers more luxurious inside.I was surprised a few years ago when I took a look inside of one.Yuppy college kid commuter vehicles now mostly.

They're also responsible for the 0500 Eurobug.

 

[Hcamper]

Wild one it says 1500 only. I have a 2500

 

[Wild one]

Wild one it says 1500 only. I have a 2500

You don't have mds then,so why would you even consider 5W-20??? At 69 you're old enough to remember the days of straight 30W or 10W-30. The 5.7 was originally designed around 5W-30 back when it was released in 03,only after they went after milege numbers were the oil specs changed from 5W-30 to 5W-20
Other then mds your 5.7 is the same engine as the 5.7 in the 1500's,not sure what would make you think a light duty 1500 would use a thicker oil then a heavy duty 2500 would.Come on man at 69 you should know that,as this is not your first vehicle

 

[corneileous]

....and have now gone to Amsoil 5w20 with a 15oz bottle of Biotech Lubeguard additive and an SRT oil filter. Truck is super quiet, super smooth and should hopefully be well protected as I plan on keeping it a long time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which Amsoil you using? I just recently switched to the Amsoil signature series 5w20 back in October but why do you use the bottle of lube guard with Amsoil? I thought Amsoil was pretty much up there with red line having a **** ton of additives including moly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tidefan1967]

Which Amsoil you using? I just recently switched to the Amsoil signature series 5w20 back in October but why do you use the bottle of lube guard with Amsoil? I thought Amsoil was pretty much up there with red line having a **** ton of additives including moly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SS 5W30 has a good amount on Moly in it but not even half as much as Redline 5W30 does. If I was going to go the trouble to add Lubeguard to it I would just use the Redline instead since technically neither one meets the requirement anyway. Just make sure whatever you use you have documentation showing that it meets the spec.

 

[corneileous]

I tried 5w-30 in my 2012 model one summer. It was fine once warmed up but when cold the oil pressure was uncomfortably high. I'll stick with the manufacturer recommended 5w-20.

I really don’t think there’s necessarily anything wrong per se with using 5W20 oil as long as you use the best oil that you can and absolutely do not go by that extremely conservative oil change meter on your dash and change your oil a whole lot more frequently between 6,000-6,500 miles with 7k as pushing it. Use the best filter, too.

I have no idea how good the Amsoil OE is but the Amsoil I run is the signature series which supposedly is not technically API certified because supposedly it goes above and beyond that which means that it’s also not the Chrysler MS 6395 compliance which means that it supposedly exceeds that by a long shot as well and I use the top-of-the-line oil filter from Amsoil as well.

My last oil change cost me little over a hundred bucks but hey, if my oil change analysis comes back great this fall when I change it again, that’ll be considered as money well spent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GRN69CHV]

74,000 on mine now, ran 5W-20 per the spec up to about 60,000 miles. Made the switch to 5W-30 because I noticed a distinct tapping, which I assumed were the lifters. Turned out to be a progressively louder exhaust leak which really became more evident this past fall when temps started dropping overnight. Leaking manifolds are now fixed, I'm still running 5W-30 (incidentally, I've seen "0" measurable difference in fuel economy), truck is surprisingly quiet. I personally like a little more viscosity for the roller lifters.

FWIW, I had a lot of experience with roller lifters in high performance builds. Main cause of lifter failure are, inadequate lubrication (contaminated oil, dirty filters), extensive idling (lack of splash lubrication) and high RPM valve float. I ran spring pressures up to 200 psi seat, 500+psi open to 6200-6300 rpm on hydraulic roller lifter valvetrain in a BBC which are notorious for valve train problems due to the angled pushrods on 5W-30 oil without any indication of wear.

 

[tidefan1967]

74,000 on mine now, ran 5W-20 per the spec up to about 60,000 miles. Made the switch to 5W-30 because I noticed a distinct tapping, which I assumed were the lifters. Turned out to be a progressively louder exhaust leak which really became more evident this past fall when temps started dropping overnight. Leaking manifolds are now fixed, I'm still running 5W-30 (incidentally, I've seen "0" measurable difference in fuel economy), truck is surprisingly quiet. I personally like a little more viscosity for the roller lifters.

FWIW, I had a lot of experience with roller lifters in high performance builds. Main cause of lifter failure are, inadequate lubrication (contaminated oil, dirty filters), extensive idling (lack of splash lubrication) and high RPM valve float. I ran spring pressures up to 200 psi seat, 500+psi open to 6200-6300 rpm on hydraulic roller lifter valvetrain in a BBC which are notorious for valve train problems due to the angled pushrods on 5W-30 oil without any indication of wear.

So I guess you still have the RAM then? You were talking about getting rid of it a few months I believe?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Heck, I just downgraded viscosity from 0W-40 (PUP) to 5W-30 (Red Line). I studied the specs, the VOA's & UOA's, and member field reports. It was a no-brainer for me.

Just did my first RL change @ 38k miles. Nice and quiet and smooth. Didn't have Hemi tick, at least not yet, and intend to keep it that way.