8hp70 deleting just thermostat

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Wild one

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I drove for about 15 mins this morning when it was close to freezing and it got up to 116. The lowest i've seen it since doing the swap and we've had more than a few cold days. It's usually sitting between 120-145 with the way I drive. But it's steady and has not shown any sign of having issues running HARD at those temps.
My 8 speed is totally deleted,and honestly i've never noticed much differance in it's shifting patterns between 100F and 185F (where it used to run at before deleting),but the transmission is also tuned,so i don't know if that is why i've never noticed any differance. My wifes 1320 with no heater will take upwards of 60 miles on a 30F day before it gets above 150F,and it doesn't really exhibit any shift differances between 100F and 180F.I usually try to keep things reasonable until both transmissions get to around 100F,but after that it's game on,lol
 

t0ymach1n3

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My 8 speed is totally deleted,and honestly i've never noticed much differance in it's shifting patterns between 100F and 185F (where it used to run at before deleting),but the transmission is also tuned,so i don't know if that is why i've never noticed any differance. My wifes 1320 with no heater will take upwards of 60 miles on a 30F day before it gets above 150F,and it doesn't really exhibit any shift differances between 100F and 180F.I usually try to keep things reasonable until both transmissions get to around 100F,but after that it's game on,lol
Pretty much the same here, minus having a tuned trans, and it's been a dream. As long as it has enough fluid, it is a blast to drive. Do you use HP Tuners and had the trans tuned?
 

Wild one

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Pretty much the same here, minus having a tuned trans, and it's been a dream. As long as it has enough fluid, it is a blast to drive. Do you use HP Tuners and had the trans tuned?
Been HP tuned since 2015,lol. My 4X4 runs 12.0's at 3400ft,or DA corrected 11.70's.It'll easily take stock Hellcats on an 1/8th mile track,but on a 1/4 they'll run it down
 

t0ymach1n3

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Been HP tuned since 2015,lol. My 4X4 runs 12.0's at 3400ft,or DA corrected 11.70's.It'll easily take stock Hellcats on an 1/8th mile track,but on a 1/4 they'll run it down
****, giving me hope that I might be able to keep up with the big boys lol. I just swapped to HP recently and been wondering if I made the right move. You have some engine upgrades to match the trans tune I assume?
 

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Mine has been deleted for about a year now. I see no difference in the trans aside from colder "high" temps. Meaning I'm no longer seeing 200 plus degrees in the summer. Now it stays in the 150-170 range. When it's below freezing here in Ohio I still see the exact same trans operation as when it was stock.

For the record I used the previous bypass thread to gather that the coolant (heater) lines didn't need to be plugged at the trans. I ran a hose from the waterpump to the lower radiator hose. (Orange line) I originally planned to block them off but haven't gotten around to it yet. You could go with a Gates #23604 lower radiator hose that doesn't have the fitting for the trans heater. (blue line) Then a thermostat housing from an earlier model. (Red line)20220415_173327 - 2.jpg
 
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t0ymach1n3

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Mine has been deleted for about a year now. I see no difference in the trans aside from colder "high" temps. Meaning I'm no longer seeing 200 plus degrees in the summer. Now it stays in the 150-170 range. When it's below freezing here in Ohio I still see the exact same trans operation as when it was stock.

For the record I used the previous bypass thread to gather that the coolant (heater) lines didn't need to be plugged at the trans. I ran a hose from the waterpump to the lower radiator hose. (Orange line) I originally planned to block them off but haven't gotten around to it yet. You could go with a Gates #23604 lower radiator hose that doesn't have the fitting for the trans heater. (blue line) Then a brass plug in the water pump. (Red line)View attachment 511651
It might just be late but am I understanding what you said and you have no cooling lines running to the trans at all? Please forgive me if I understood that wrong lol
 

Bandit517

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It might just be late but am I understanding what you said and you have no cooling lines running to the trans at all? Please forgive me if I understood that wrong lol
I have cooler lines, but not the antifreeze filled heater lines. They've been removed.
 

Wild one

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I have cooler lines, but not the antifreeze filled heater lines. They've been removed.
If you swap to an earlier thermostat hosing and the heater lines for a 5 or 6 speed truck,you can get rid of everything that was at one point in time hooked to the transmission.The earlier 8 speed trucks just have the standard thermostat housing with no fittings on it,they also have the frame mounted 3 way valve,which i just unhooked,but left the electrical connector hooked to it,so it didn't throw any codes.Your truck being a 16 i don't think will have the 3 way valve,so the heater hoses off the 5/6 speed trucks will clean up alot of extra unused coolant lines.If you want to remove the cooler lines totally,the easiest way CrazyKid and i found to remove them,is to cut them into pieces.
 

Wild one

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****, giving me hope that I might be able to keep up with the big boys lol. I just swapped to HP recently and been wondering if I made the right move. You have some engine upgrades to match the trans tune I assume?
It's a full bolt-on truck with a Greene cam and a small 75 shot of nitrous.When i put it together 8 years ago,it was the quickest 4th Gen 8 speed 4X4 ,going by posted time slips at the time,by no stretch is it that anymore,but i haven't really done anything power wise to it since,except drive it and race it alot (a touch over 600 passes),lol.
 

t0ymach1n3

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It's a full bolt-on truck with a Greene cam and a small 75 shot of nitrous.When i put it together 8 years ago,it was the quickest 4th Gen 8 speed 4X4 ,going by posted time slips at the time,by no stretch is it that anymore,but i haven't really done anything power wise to it since,except drive it and race it alot (a touch over 600 passes),lol.
That's some damn good news! I'm gonna be FBO as soon as I can find some headers to compliment the Green stage 2.5 HL cam kit. It's been a beating trying to find a set. It's been a beating without going into the diatribe. Was hoping that my combo would hold me over till I find a suitable block to build a forged 426 stroker. I want to hurt some Camaros and Mustang owners feelings and hang a bit with some of the 392 guys! lol
 

t0ymach1n3

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I have cooler lines, but not the antifreeze filled heater lines. They've been removed.
I thought those lines were the cooling lines? I don't recall seeing any other places on the truck 8HP70 to connect anything else. I'm asking cause i'm wondering if I missed something major here or not lol

Edit: Scratch that. It legit occurred to me what you're talking about after I hit reply lol
 

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If you swap to an earlier thermostat hosing and the heater lines for a 5 or 6 speed truck,you can get rid of everything that was at one point in time hooked to the transmission.The earlier 8 speed trucks just have the standard thermostat housing with no fittings on it,they also have the frame mounted 3 way valve,which i just unhooked,but left the electrical connector hooked to it,so it didn't throw any codes.Your truck being a 16 i don't think will have the 3 way valve,so the heater hoses off the 5/6 speed trucks will clean up alot of extra unused coolant lines.If you want to remove the cooler lines totally,the easiest way CrazyKid and i found to remove them,is to cut them into pieces.
Yea I mis-typed in post #25. I said the lower hose and water pump. I meant lower hose and t-stat housing. I'm going to go back and correct it. I plan to eventually switch mine out. Probably the same time I finally get my cam installed is when I'll do it since the cooling system would be drained then. Like you said, mine being a 16 it didn't have the electrical valve.


Part numbers for hoses and thermostat housings with and without trans heater connections.

Rad Hoses.jpgT Stat Housing.jpg
 

crazykid1994

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I already ordered the new tstat housing. Just need to order the lower hose and cap the hole in the water pump with a threaded fitting to completely rid my truck from any potential leak points
 

Wild one

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Yea I mis-typed in post #25. I said the lower hose and water pump. I meant lower hose and t-stat housing. I'm going to go back and correct it. I plan to eventually switch mine out. Probably the same time I finally get my cam installed is when I'll do it since the cooling system would be drained then. Like you said, mine being a 16 it didn't have the electrical valve.


Part numbers for hoses and thermostat housings with and without trans heater connections.

View attachment 511654View attachment 511655
My truck is 14 so it was easy to convert back to the earlier set up,as it doesn't have the engine oil cooler ,so all i had to buy was the molded heater hoses for a 2012.My thermostat housing and water pump didn't have any extra holes that needed plugging,same with the lower rad hose,it was just normal lower hose with out any extra cooling hoses tied to it
 

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I think the 180 thermostat might be part of your issue, unless you have some of the grill slats removed. I have the full revmax kit installed and at interstate speed i usually sit around 140. If you get down to single digit temps it doesn't like to warm up, but otherwise it's pretty warm.
I take back what I said. I had to drive to the airport last night so I actually paid attention to the trans temp. Never got above 120 and got as low as 110 in 40 to 45 degree air temps. Still no shifting issues running at that temp. I tried to upload a photo but the site doesn't like my new phone's photo format.
 

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Well. Flaring the factory aluminum lines did not go well so took them to the local hose shop and they brazed on some -8 male ends and bought some -8 female to -8 hose fittings from them as well so I don’t have to wait on ordering them. I should have just done that in the first place but I like to try.
 

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MRFREEZE57

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I was curious, I installed Caulk's bypass in my truck about 18 month's ago When checking the fluid level I did it like in the videos at 100 deg and a slow trickle out the drain plug, would that be the correct way to check the level with the bypass?
 

Wild one

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I was curious, I installed Caulk's bypass in my truck about 18 month's ago When checking the fluid level I did it like in the videos at 100 deg and a slow trickle out the drain plug, would that be the correct way to check the level with the bypass?
Here's the proper directions for checking the fluid level in the trucks,and there shouldn't be any differances because of Jesse's/Caulk's bypass. Pay attention to the first high lighted paragraph. These are the instructions that come with a brand new truck 8 speed.
 

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t0ymach1n3

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I was curious, I installed Caulk's bypass in my truck about 18 month's ago When checking the fluid level I did it like in the videos at 100 deg and a slow trickle out the drain plug, would that be the correct way to check the level with the bypass?
To add to Wild ones post, I take a level with me under the truck and make sure I get it as level as possible with a jack, throw jack stands under to save my fat ass from getting crushed and then get to work. Getting the truck level is the worst part other than almost burning yourself when filling the fluid lol
 

MRFREEZE57

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To add to Wild ones post, I take a level with me under the truck and make sure I get it as level as possible with a jack, throw jack stands under to save my fat ass from getting crushed and then get to work. Getting the truck level is the worst part other than almost burning yourself when filling the fluid lol

Had to raise the rear end up about a foot to get the trans level, used a tape measure at the front and rear of the pan sealing surface to check the level.
 
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