8hp70 heater bypass

[greywolf2112]

I may have missed it, but does anyone have an actual video, or very detailed (with pictures) of the installation of the bypass?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

When you purchase the bypass, there is a QR code you scan that has good instructions and photos. Instructions are also available on the website

If you have basic automotive skills, like pumping gas or replacement of sparks, you can install the bypass. The most difficult part for me was /is the snap ring. I've learned to clean it really well with brake clean before removing

I have installed 3 of them on different rams. Always successful. You got this.

 

[Wild one]

I may have missed it, but does anyone have an actual video, or very detailed (with pictures) of the installation of the bypass?

Buy yourself a good set of 90 degree external snap ring pliars. Follow BigSky's reconmendation of cleaning the housing where the snap ring goes,i use Brake Clean to,and a small brass or wire brush to scrub it clean while spraying it with brake clean at the same time.

.090" SNAP RING PLIER 0-DEGREE BENT TIP MST900R | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

 

[greywolf2112]

When you purchase the bypass, there is a QR code you scan that has good instructions and photos. Instructions are also available on the website

If you have basic automotive skills, like pumping gas or replacement of sparks, you can install the bypass. The most difficult part for me was /is the snap ring. I've learned to clean it really well with brake clean before removing

I have installed 3 of them on different rams. Always successful. You got this.

Thanks, man - I appreciate the vote of confidence. I've seen mention of wire brush, cleaner, compressed air, WD-40, etc. Since I'm getting the optional cap upgrade, I'm not worried about mangling the cap getting it out. I've got some various snap ring pliers that will hopefully work.

I don't know why I second-guess myself doing work like this, but I don't want to mess things up. I suppose if I can take apart a Honda 250 outboard motor down to the block and put it back together, I can do something like this, LOL. Granted, that took me 3 weekends, but I ended up with no extra parts and it purred like a kitten afterwards - hell, it's probably still running somewhere out in the Gulf on my old boat.

 

[greywolf2112]

Buy yourself a good set of 90 degree external snap ring pliars. Follow BigSky's reconmendation of cleaning the housing where the snap ring goes,i use Brake Clean to,and a small brass or wire brush to scrub it clean while spraying it with brake clean at the same time.

.090" SNAP RING PLIER 0-DEGREE BENT TIP MST900R | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

I'm confused - people say 90 degree, but those look like 0 degree but are a .090 tip. When I think 90 degree, I think of these:

Amazon.com

 

[Wild one]

I'm confused - people say 90 degree, but those look like 0 degree but are a .090 tip. When I think 90 degree, I think of these:

Amazon.com

My bad i copied the wrong set,sorry about that.

SNAP RING PLIER .047" 90˚ MSTP4791 | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

 

[greywolf2112]

My bad i copied the wrong set,sorry about that.

SNAP RING PLIER .047" 90˚ MSTP4791 | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

Ah, good - thank you - I'll check on my sets and my neighbors but if they aren't up to the task I'll get some of these.

 

[Fabman]

This is a GREAT thread! - I have an oddball request...I am building a 1955 Power Wagon- and installing a 5.7 w/ 8hp trans....and SPACE is extremely tight as these have very small Cabs. Hopefully - someone has the info I need. I want to eliminate this entire heat exchanger and somehow replum the trans fluid to a trans cooler. I need to eliminate this BIG hump I would have in the drivers floor. The existing trans fluid lines stick up too far into the 1955 PW floor.

 

[Dean2]

I posted a bunch of links to places that specialise in parts, conversions etc for the old power wagon

Search this. You will find everything you need

1950 power wagon conversion to 5.7 and conversions

1956 Dodge Power Wagon with a 5.7 L Hemi V8

This 1956 Dodge Power Wagon (C3-PW6) visited Trackside Auto Custom & Restoration in Warren Ohio to have a 5.7 L Hemi V8 crate engine installed. Behind the swapped motor is a 545RFE five-speed automatic transmission and dual-range transfer case. The Power Wagon has drum brakes front and rear...

engineswapdepot.com

Traditional Parts Catalog - Online & Print

Our catalog specializing in 1939-1971 2WD & 4x4 Dodge & Fargo trucks is available in print & online! Includes tech tips, vehicle identification information & parts for 1941-1945 WWII WC, 1946-1978 Flat Fender Power Wagons (WDX to WM300), US & Canadian M37/M43 and 1957-1971 D100, W100, D200...

www.vintagepowerwagons.com

 

[Fabman]

I posted a bunch of links to places that specialise in parts, conversions etc for the old power wagon

Search this. You will find everything you need

1950 power wagon conversion to 5.7 and conversions

1956 Dodge Power Wagon with a 5.7 L Hemi V8

This 1956 Dodge Power Wagon (C3-PW6) visited Trackside Auto Custom & Restoration in Warren Ohio to have a 5.7 L Hemi V8 crate engine installed. Behind the swapped motor is a 545RFE five-speed automatic transmission and dual-range transfer case. The Power Wagon has drum brakes front and rear...

engineswapdepot.com

Traditional Parts Catalog - Online & Print

Our catalog specializing in 1939-1971 2WD & 4x4 Dodge & Fargo trucks is available in print & online! Includes tech tips, vehicle identification information & parts for 1941-1945 WWII WC, 1946-1978 Flat Fender Power Wagons (WDX to WM300), US & Canadian M37/M43 and 1957-1971 D100, W100, D200...

www.vintagepowerwagons.com

Thank Dean ! Ill check those sites out !

 

[BlownGP]

This is a GREAT thread! - I have an oddball request...I am building a 1955 Power Wagon- and installing a 5.7 w/ 8hp trans....and SPACE is extremely tight as these have very small Cabs. Hopefully - someone has the info I need. I want to eliminate this entire heat exchanger and somehow replum the trans fluid to a trans cooler. I need to eliminate this BIG hump I would have in the drivers floor. The existing trans fluid lines stick up too far into the 1955 PW floor.

You can delete it. I believe @Wild one on here has.

 

[Wild one]

This is a GREAT thread! - I have an oddball request...I am building a 1955 Power Wagon- and installing a 5.7 w/ 8hp trans....and SPACE is extremely tight as these have very small Cabs. Hopefully - someone has the info I need. I want to eliminate this entire heat exchanger and somehow replum the trans fluid to a trans cooler. I need to eliminate this BIG hump I would have in the drivers floor. The existing trans fluid lines stick up too far into the 1955 PW floor.

I forget the name of the guy,but if you google 8HP70 heater delete kits it should pop up,or ask on a few of the ZF swap pages on facebook,you should be able to track him down.He builds a aluminium block,that allows you to completely get rid of the thermal management unit off the side of the truck 8 speed,and lets you use a normal NPT fitting to plumb cooler lines for the transmission.I'd also run an inline Improved Racing either a 145 of 165 degree thermostat with it,so the transmission will get some heat into the fluid.Google ZF Swap pages on facebook,you'll find several pages dedicated just to swapping the 8 speed into oddball configurations.It's not uncommon for guys to grind all the tabs off the case to fit the transmission into tight tranny tunnels.

High-Flow Engine & Transmission Oil Cooler Thermostat

Improved Racing's Flow Series Motor Sport (FSM) oil thermostat is a universal solution that can be used with any oil cooler on any vehicle or industrial application flowing up to 20 GPM (75.71 LPM). Trusted by professional race teams, OEM's, and military contractors. Accelerates fluid warmup...

www.improvedracing.com

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[Fabman]

Thanks W - I will look into this !

 

[usuallyram]

Hey all

My transmission temps are acting up and theres an associated whirring noise when the temperatures climb high. I've spent some time thinking about it and something that makes sense is a partially stuck or faulty thermostat. On some of my commutes (same highway, same weather) the trans will stay around 195, but on most other days it'll climb to 230. If the thermostat is in some way stuck or preventing flow, could it be causing fluid cavitation via partially restricted flow, resulting in a whirring noise?

Anyways, long story short, bypassing the trans heater seems like a decent first (cheap) step to figure out this problem.

My question: what's the functional difference between going with the Caulk kit versus doing the Revmax blocking plate thing?

For that matter, what does this do?

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Hey all

My transmission temps are acting up and theres an associated whirring noise when the temperatures climb high. I've spent some time thinking about it and something that makes sense is a partially stuck or faulty thermostat. On some of my commutes (same highway, same weather) the trans will stay around 195, but on most other days it'll climb to 230. If the thermostat is in some way stuck or preventing flow, could it be causing fluid cavitation via partially restricted flow, resulting in a whirring noise?

Anyways, long story short, bypassing the trans heater seems like a decent first (cheap) step to figure out this problem.

My question: what's the functional difference between going with the Caulk kit versus doing the Revmax blocking plate thing?

For that matter, what does this do?

View attachment 582066

Reach out to @caulk04 for guidance on next steps!!!

 

[RamDiver]

Hey all

My transmission temps are acting up and theres an associated whirring noise when the temperatures climb high. I've spent some time thinking about it and something that makes sense is a partially stuck or faulty thermostat. On some of my commutes (same highway, same weather) the trans will stay around 195, but on most other days it'll climb to 230. If the thermostat is in some way stuck or preventing flow, could it be causing fluid cavitation via partially restricted flow, resulting in a whirring noise?

Anyways, long story short, bypassing the trans heater seems like a decent first (cheap) step to figure out this problem.

My question: what's the functional difference between going with the Caulk kit versus doing the Revmax blocking plate thing?

For that matter, what does this do?

View attachment 582066

I read a detailed explanation today from Rick @Wild one on why the RevMax was junk compared to Jesse Cauilk's solution.

Rick, could you kindly repeat that story of your experience?

.

 

[caulk04]

Hey all

My transmission temps are acting up and theres an associated whirring noise when the temperatures climb high. I've spent some time thinking about it and something that makes sense is a partially stuck or faulty thermostat. On some of my commutes (same highway, same weather) the trans will stay around 195, but on most other days it'll climb to 230. If the thermostat is in some way stuck or preventing flow, could it be causing fluid cavitation via partially restricted flow, resulting in a whirring noise?

Anyways, long story short, bypassing the trans heater seems like a decent first (cheap) step to figure out this problem.

My question: what's the functional difference between going with the Caulk kit versus doing the Revmax blocking plate thing?

For that matter, what does this do?

View attachment 582066

The part you've pictured there looks like the thermostat bypasses available for RFE transmissions. They have a thermostat inline with the cooler lines and no separate heater.

My part will accomplish the same end goal as the revmax kit IF you install their kit fully. They give partial install options that don't make any sense. The benefit to my part is lower cost, easier install, and it's externally invisible which is helpful if you have a warranty in place and are worried about that.

I don't have any input on the whirring noise. There shouldn't be any fluid restriction even if it's stuck since it just transfers from one fluid circuit to another.

 

[usuallyram]

It's affordable enough to be worth a try anyway! Thanks for the info, will be ordering it shortly.

 

[RamDiver]

It's affordable enough to be worth a try anyway! Thanks for the info, will be ordering it shortly.

I plan to buy the bundle offer and junk the OE plastic cap.

The aluminum cap from Jesse's kit just makes more sense to me, especially given the price.

There are many testimonials from other members who have added this kit: I'm sold.


And, to Ram Forum.

.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I plan to buy the bundle offer and junk the OE plastic cap.

The aluminum cap from Jesse's kit just makes more sense to me, especially given the price.

There are many testimonials from other members who have added this kit: I'm sold.


And, View attachment 582092 to Ram Forum.

.