8HP75 Fluid Change and PPE Pan experience

[AlexC2350]

Hey All, I wanted to post my experience with doing a fluid and filter change with PPE pan.

My truck is a 2020 2500 6.4. I bought it in the spring of 21 with 600 miles on it. I have 86300 on it as of today. Probably 10K or more is towing either my 9k TT or car trailer with various weights on it. The rest is commuting miles all over New England.

The transmission has been awesome to date and I wanted to keep it that way for as long as possible. I decided to use OEM fluid and have a local performance shop do the work. He also insisted on using the OEM fluid and was fine with the PPE pan. The $250 it cost to have them do it was worth it to me as they have done this a few times before. I found a kit that had the pan 10 quarts of fluid and gasket for $650.

My confirmation bias says the trans feels much better now than before the change. I’m very happy with the way it went. The mechanic got me a sample of the old fluid and said it was worth doing from the look of the fluid and I would agree.

The transmission temp always stays at 168 degrees once up to temp under normal conditions and would get there in around 20 miles. While towing I’ve seen it at 173 or so at its highest but would drop right back to 168.

Today was the first trip with new fluid and pan. On my way in normally it would reach 168 about half way to work. This morning it got to 150 by the end of the 40 mile drive. On my way home this afternoon it reached 165 at 3/4 of the way home and danced between 165 and 167 the rest of the way. So definitely running bit cooler and taking longer to warm up.

I beat myself up on wether I should do this or not because it isn’t cheap and they say it’s lifetime fluid and all that. There are cheaper ways to do it but I like the piece of mind this gave me. I plan to do it again at 120k mile or so.

Also the pan was for ZF 8hp 70 and fit the 75 no problem.

 

[Wild one]

Hey All, I wanted to post my experience with doing a fluid and filter change with PPE pan.

My truck is a 2020 2500 6.4. I bought it in the spring of 21 with 600 miles on it. I have 86300 on it as of today. Probably 10K or more is towing either my 9k TT or car trailer with various weights on it. The rest is commuting miles all over New England.

The transmission has been awesome to date and I wanted to keep it that way for as long as possible. I decided to use OEM fluid and have a local performance shop do the work. He also insisted on using the OEM fluid and was fine with the PPE pan. The $250 it cost to have them do it was worth it to me as they have done this a few times before. I found a kit that had the pan 10 quarts of fluid and gasket for $650.

My confirmation bias says the trans feels much better now than before the change. I’m very happy with the way it went. The mechanic got me a sample of the old fluid and said it was worth doing from the look of the fluid and I would agree. View attachment 530430

The transmission temp always stays at 168 degrees once up to temp under normal conditions and would get there in around 20 miles. While towing I’ve seen it at 173 or so at its highest but would drop right back to 168.

Today was the first trip with new fluid and pan. On my way in normally it would reach 168 about half way to work. This morning it got to 150 by the end of the 40 mile drive. On my way home this afternoon it reached 165 at 3/4 of the way home and danced between 165 and 167 the rest of the way. So definitely running bit cooler and taking longer to warm up. View attachment 530431

I beat myself up on wether I should do this or not because it isn’t cheap and they say it’s lifetime fluid and all that. There are cheaper ways to do it but I like the piece of mind this gave me. I plan to do it again at 120k mile or so.

Also the pan was for ZF 8hp 70 and fit the 75 no problem.

Did they level the transmissions pan rail when they filled it back up? It's a fairly important step on the 8 speed ZF transmissions,which alot of shops don't do.
For the guys who think 185+ temps are good for the 8 speeds in the 1500's,i beg to differ,as Ma Mopar runs the 8 speeds in the heavy duties way cooler then they do in the 1500's.
Here's the instructions for checking the fluid level in the 8HP70,and the same first highlighted paragraph applies to the 8HP75 in your truck.

 

[AlexC2350]

I sure hope they did, I asked if they knew the procedure and wanted to know if they understood it’s not a typical transmission service. I was planning to do this myself so I had done a bunch of research prior. That procedure list was something I saved a while back from here. They said they’ve done a few BMWs and Rams with ZF transmissions before. I left it at that.

I didn’t sleep good the night I dropped it off to be honest haha

 

[Wild one]

I sure hope they did, I asked if they knew the procedure and wanted to know if they understood it’s not a typical transmission service. I was planning to do this myself so I had done a bunch of research prior. That procedure list was something I saved a while back from here. They said they’ve done a few BMWs and Rams with ZF transmissions before. I left it at that.

I didn’t sleep good the night I dropped it off to be honest haha

Just for peace of mind,i'd jack it up till the pan rail is level and recheck it,easier and cheaper then having to replace the transmission,because it's down on fluid,lol

 

[SniperDroid]

Thank You for posting your experience. I have been considering having a local shop do a flush and fill with Amsoil Transmission Fluid, but have not found a shop that has done it on the RAM before. Maybe this would be an substitute arrangement for me.

 

[NETim]

As a veteran of two DNF's on my '14, I consider the procedure fairly easy. I was apprehensive at first but I found that it's not nearly as difficult to do as it appears.

The biggest obstacle is getting the hind end of the truck off the ground high enough to level out the tranny. It takes two very tall jack stands or the equivalent.

And Valvoline MV MaxLife ATF works fine in the ZF.

 

[Wild one]

Thank You for posting your experience. I have been considering having a local shop do a flush and fill with Amsoil Transmission Fluid, but have not found a shop that has done it on the RAM before. Maybe this would be an substitute arrangement for me.

I wouldn't run either Amzoil or Redline fluid in the 8 speed,both don't have the greatest of reps when used in the 8 speeds,stick with either the OEM fluid or Valvolene Maxlife.
Supposedly Audi's OEM 8 speed fluid is cheaper then Chryslers OEM fluid,if you wanted to explore other OEM fluid options.
Just do a pan drop with a drain and fill,avoid doing a flush,if you want,you can disconnect the cooler lines by the radiator,and carefully blow the cooler out,with no more then 30 psi of air pressure.
I used my old syphon wash gun stuck in a couple bottles of OEM fluid to flush the cooler when i had to replace my 8 speed,as you're not supposed to use any of the standard transmission flushes with the 8 speed.Whether that's true,i wasn't really willing to chance with a brand new 8 speed,as the transmissions aren't cheap

 

[AlexC2350]

I will end up

Just for peace of mind,i'd jack it up till the pan rail is level and recheck it,easier and cheaper then having to replace the transmission,because it's down on fluid,lol

I don’t think that’s a bad idea at all and i think i will this weekend. I just feel like I paid the money for professional service and I shouldn’t have to check their work. I’m a master Electrician and decent wrench. I could have done this myself but believe in hiring the right man for the job. Maybe part of larger problem.

 

[AlexC2350]

I wouldn't run either Amzoil or Redline fluid in the 8 speed,both don't have the greatest of reps when used in the 8 speeds,stick with either the OEM fluid or Valvolene Maxlife.
Supposedly Audi's OEM 8 speed fluid is cheaper then Chryslers OEM fluid,if you wanted to explore other OEM fluid options.
Just do a pan drop with a drain and fill,avoid doing a flush,if you want,you can disconnect the cooler lines by the radiator,and carefully blow the cooler out,with no more then 30 psi of air pressure.
I used my old syphon wash gun stuck in a couple bottles of OEM fluid to flush the cooler when i had to replace my 8 speed,as you're not supposed to use any of the standard transmission flushes with the 8 speed.Whether that's true,i wasn't really willing to chance with a brand new 8 speed,as the transmissions aren't cheap

I wanted to use Amsoil for this but did see a few posts in places that said it was too slippery or something and didn’t want to chance it. I’ve been using Amsoil for all oil changes to date. I was thinking about doing the axles with amsoil severe gear and the t case at some point.

Also to another point I did do about 100 more miles yesterday for a total of 200 since the fluid change. Temps are staying 1 to 2 degrees cooler than usual and the shifts both firm and smooth. Do you think I should still need to worry about the fill level?

 

[Redfisher1974]

I used amsoil in my 8 speed 3.6 v6
Tranny. Have not noticed any issues yet. Knock on wood.

 

[Wild one]

I used amsoil in my 8 speed 3.6 v6
Tranny. Have not noticed any issues yet. Knock on wood.

Your 3.6 doesn't create anywhere near the torque as the OPs 6.4 does.

 

[Wild one]

I wanted to use Amsoil for this but did see a few posts in places that said it was too slippery or something and didn’t want to chance it. I’ve been using Amsoil for all oil changes to date. I was thinking about doing the axles with amsoil severe gear and the t case at some point.

Also to another point I did do about 100 more miles yesterday for a total of 200 since the fluid change. Temps are staying 1 to 2 degrees cooler than usual and the shifts both firm and smooth. Do you think I should still need to worry about the fill level?

It's your call,but if it was my truck,i'd be double checking their work,lol

 

[AlexC2350]

It's your call,but if it was my truck,i'd be double checking their work,lol

Fair enough, trust but verify I guess

 

[jh90731]

Another fluid option is the Pentosin ATF 8 available from Rock Auto. I've been using it in my 1500 with the 8HP70 with good results.

 

[greg mayrhofer]

Hey All, I wanted to post my experience with doing a fluid and filter change with PPE pan.

My truck is a 2020 2500 6.4. I bought it in the spring of 21 with 600 miles on it. I have 86300 on it as of today. Probably 10K or more is towing either my 9k TT or car trailer with various weights on it. The rest is commuting miles all over New England.

The transmission has been awesome to date and I wanted to keep it that way for as long as possible. I decided to use OEM fluid and have a local performance shop do the work. He also insisted on using the OEM fluid and was fine with the PPE pan. The $250 it cost to have them do it was worth it to me as they have done this a few times before. I found a kit that had the pan 10 quarts of fluid and gasket for $650.

My confirmation bias says the trans feels much better now than before the change. I’m very happy with the way it went. The mechanic got me a sample of the old fluid and said it was worth doing from the look of the fluid and I would agree. View attachment 530430

The transmission temp always stays at 168 degrees once up to temp under normal conditions and would get there in around 20 miles. While towing I’ve seen it at 173 or so at its highest but would drop right back to 168.

Today was the first trip with new fluid and pan. On my way in normally it would reach 168 about half way to work. This morning it got to 150 by the end of the 40 mile drive. On my way home this afternoon it reached 165 at 3/4 of the way home and danced between 165 and 167 the rest of the way. So definitely running bit cooler and taking longer to warm up. View attachment 530431

I beat myself up on wether I should do this or not because it isn’t cheap and they say it’s lifetime fluid and all that. There are cheaper ways to do it but I like the piece of mind this gave me. I plan to do it again at 120k mile or so.

Also the pan was for ZF 8hp 70 and fit the 75 no problem.

i did mine on 2014 dodge ram,it was not the hard, the key is to be sure on the right proceed on refilling and follow it to the T, here is one for dodge ram 1500 8HP70 tran attach

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=...usg=AOvVaw03FD83ysN3yFEkDwZA10mF&opi=89978449​

 

[MarineBSP]

8HP70 transmission service -

This was the most recent web site post I found on 8HP70 and 8HP75 transmissions. I don't have a heavy duty, but some of this may apply anyway. If my post is in the wrong place, please have a moderator message me or move it.

Just did my first 8HP70 transmission service, and I'm a little embarrassed that I waited until 90K miles. I'm posting to share what I found and help others evaluate what they choose to do. This is long, so for a speed read, jump to my COMMENTS.

Before began, I levelled the transmission. For my truck, that entailed chocking the front wheels, and jacking up the rear of the truck with a 3-ton floor jack, supporting it with a pair of 6-ton jack stands. I chose to place my jack stands under the rear axle sway bar brackets, reasoning that the load would be static and these are considerably closer to the ground than the axle itself. I used a quality bubble level on the transmission pan rail to check level, and with the pan levelled, the distance from bottom of the sway bar mounts to the floor was 21 3/4 inches. My jack stands still had over 1/3 of their shafts in the bases, so it was solid.

I spread my job over three days because of my schedule, but also because it helped me with temperature management, giving me a “cold” start when refilling the transmission. First, I cracked the Fill Plug. I removed the drain plug above the cross-over pipe using a shortened 10mm hex key, and I caught the ATF in a flat plastic catch-pan (about 32" long X 16" wide X 6" deep). Many manufacturers beside FCA-RAM use ZF 8HPxx transmissions, usually with unique pans for different models - so if FCA had chosen different pans for V6’s and V8’s, the drain plug would not HAVE to be over the exhaust. But at least when cold, it is only awkward. After draining for over an hour, I reinstalled the drain plug and removed the bolts. I was OCD and collected the ATF remaining in the transmission pan in my plastic catch-pan as well. I weighed the combined ATF (volume changes with temp, weight doesn’t). I recorded dry weight for my new Mopar pan and filter as well as the “wet” pan I just removed. I recorded the difference as ATF weight. I weighed a quart of Mopar 8 & 9 Speed fluid – and the weight per quart matched the label on the bottles: 907 g per Liter, or 857 g per quart. All together I removed about 4008 grams, or 4.68 quarts. This was less than I expected from what I had seen from other people’s experiences.

I cleaned the transmission flange and installed the new pan and screws, and I used the prescribed pattern to torque the screws to 10Nm each. I used a modified sprayer to fill ATF into the cold transmission before the fill port dripped (about 2.25 quarts). At this point I started the truck in Park and went back under it to add fluid while still well under 86 deg F. I added to a total of about 5.15 quarts before I got a drizzle coming out of the cold-but-pumping transmission.

I installed the Fill Plug, and I got back up into the truck, disabled traction control, and shifted between P R N D as prescribed, holding each for 5 seconds. I ran the engine up to 2000 RPM in Neutral for ten seconds, and then I shifted back to Park and let the engine run until the transmission temperature was about 91 degF (Spec temp range is 86 to 122 degF). I went back under the truck and removed the Fill Plug to allow ATF to drizzled out until it reached drop-by-drop. Only about 2 to 3 ounces came back out. I installed the Fill plug again, and went back up into the cab. The transmission temperature was now at 96 degF. After torquing the Fill plug to 25 lb-ft, I lowered the truck and took it for a test drive - shifting seemed good.

After > 300 miles, with transmission temps > 176 degF multiple times to allow the ATF bypass valve to allow full mixing, it was time for a second, follow-up drain-and-fill. I used the pan drain plug, let drain an hour, and reinstalled the plug. It has an O‑ring seal, so the 8Nm torque is very low. With engine on, but cold, I added back just a bit more than what drained out from pan drain plug (about 4 quarts). I performed the same transmission cycling as before: draining excess to steady drip with temp in range, then installing the Fill plug (at 95 degF). With this second drain-and-fill I calculate that I’m less than 25% ‘old’ fluid. I’ll change again about 150K-160K miles. I should have gotten a PPE pan (will likely get one in the future), mostly because the drain plug is so much better positioned to do a drain-and-fill. And using more fluid, the percent old fluid remaining will be lower.

COMMENTS:

1) I used a homemade 8mm hex driver with ball end (photo1) to help remove and replace the Fill Plug when adjusting the ATF level. The hot exhaust for the 5.7L (and 6.4L) so close to the Fill Plug makes it hard to get the plug started square into the trans while doing it quickly and avoiding burns. I tried wet rags on the exhaust, but they got in my way. An 8mm hex driver with a ball end allowed me to better align the plug in the trans threaded port (photo2) so that I could quickly start the plug, although I still used my fingers to screw it in more quickly. The ball end 8mm hex driver needs to be about seven or eight inches long. I ground the ball end by hand, using the fit into my old Fill Plug as a guide, and it allows more wobble than commercial ball ends when fully inserted into the Fill Plug.

My homemade tool could be improved: I cut down an L-shaped key to make it, and it was not perfectly straight. It would have been better to have a round shaft too, because the flats bind a little on the exhaust pipes. This technique depends a lot on the exact alignment of the truck’s exhaust, and it might work better on some trucks and hardly at all on others.

2) Leveling transmission versus leveling the truck. I changed out my 8HP70 ATF at the same time a friend changed his. He took his truck to a friend with a lift, used Mopar 8&9 speed ATF, used an OE Mopar pan, and used the same temp range and shift protocol. They did not level the transmission, only the truck. His result so far seems fine.

My thoughts are: a) the temp range from 86 degF to 122 degF is pretty broad, and the ATF expands as it gets hot, so the ZF engineers built in some wiggle room, b) ZF warns about over-filling, and the level truck with angled RAM trans installation should result in an under-fill instead, and c) with the transmission pumping the fluid while filling and adjusting, the bulk of the fluid is in the torque converter, valve body, and rest of the case, so the amount of under-fill with the truck level is probably not too extreme. This would be consistent with many thinking level truck is fine, while a few find their trans is too low on fluid (from how much fluid I got out of my truck, it may have been on the low side from the factory fill).

Hope this helps those doing the same or similar job in the future.

 

[Wild one]

8HP70 transmission service -

This was the most recent web site post I found on 8HP70 and 8HP75 transmissions. I don't have a heavy duty, but some of this may apply anyway. If my post is in the wrong place, please have a moderator message me or move it.

Just did my first 8HP70 transmission service, and I'm a little embarrassed that I waited until 90K miles. I'm posting to share what I found and help others evaluate what they choose to do. This is long, so for a speed read, jump to my COMMENTS.

Before began, I levelled the transmission. For my truck, that entailed chocking the front wheels, and jacking up the rear of the truck with a 3-ton floor jack, supporting it with a pair of 6-ton jack stands. I chose to place my jack stands under the rear axle sway bar brackets, reasoning that the load would be static and these are considerably closer to the ground than the axle itself. I used a quality bubble level on the transmission pan rail to check level, and with the pan levelled, the distance from bottom of the sway bar mounts to the floor was 21 3/4 inches. My jack stands still had over 1/3 of their shafts in the bases, so it was solid.

I spread my job over three days because of my schedule, but also because it helped me with temperature management, giving me a “cold” start when refilling the transmission. First, I cracked the Fill Plug. I removed the drain plug above the cross-over pipe using a shortened 10mm hex key, and I caught the ATF in a flat plastic catch-pan (about 32" long X 16" wide X 6" deep). Many manufacturers beside FCA-RAM use ZF 8HPxx transmissions, usually with unique pans for different models - so if FCA had chosen different pans for V6’s and V8’s, the drain plug would not HAVE to be over the exhaust. But at least when cold, it is only awkward. After draining for over an hour, I reinstalled the drain plug and removed the bolts. I was OCD and collected the ATF remaining in the transmission pan in my plastic catch-pan as well. I weighed the combined ATF (volume changes with temp, weight doesn’t). I recorded dry weight for my new Mopar pan and filter as well as the “wet” pan I just removed. I recorded the difference as ATF weight. I weighed a quart of Mopar 8 & 9 Speed fluid – and the weight per quart matched the label on the bottles: 907 g per Liter, or 857 g per quart. All together I removed about 4008 grams, or 4.68 quarts. This was less than I expected from what I had seen from other people’s experiences.

I cleaned the transmission flange and installed the new pan and screws, and I used the prescribed pattern to torque the screws to 10Nm each. I used a modified sprayer to fill ATF into the cold transmission before the fill port dripped (about 2.25 quarts). At this point I started the truck in Park and went back under it to add fluid while still well under 86 deg F. I added to a total of about 5.15 quarts before I got a drizzle coming out of the cold-but-pumping transmission.

I installed the Fill Plug, and I got back up into the truck, disabled traction control, and shifted between P R N D as prescribed, holding each for 5 seconds. I ran the engine up to 2000 RPM in Neutral for ten seconds, and then I shifted back to Park and let the engine run until the transmission temperature was about 91 degF (Spec temp range is 86 to 122 degF). I went back under the truck and removed the Fill Plug to allow ATF to drizzled out until it reached drop-by-drop. Only about 2 to 3 ounces came back out. I installed the Fill plug again, and went back up into the cab. The transmission temperature was now at 96 degF. After torquing the Fill plug to 25 lb-ft, I lowered the truck and took it for a test drive - shifting seemed good.

After > 300 miles, with transmission temps > 176 degF multiple times to allow the ATF bypass valve to allow full mixing, it was time for a second, follow-up drain-and-fill. I used the pan drain plug, let drain an hour, and reinstalled the plug. It has an O‑ring seal, so the 8Nm torque is very low. With engine on, but cold, I added back just a bit more than what drained out from pan drain plug (about 4 quarts). I performed the same transmission cycling as before: draining excess to steady drip with temp in range, then installing the Fill plug (at 95 degF). With this second drain-and-fill I calculate that I’m less than 25% ‘old’ fluid. I’ll change again about 150K-160K miles. I should have gotten a PPE pan (will likely get one in the future), mostly because the drain plug is so much better positioned to do a drain-and-fill. And using more fluid, the percent old fluid remaining will be lower.

COMMENTS:

1) I used a homemade 8mm hex driver with ball end (photo1) to help remove and replace the Fill Plug when adjusting the ATF level. The hot exhaust for the 5.7L (and 6.4L) so close to the Fill Plug makes it hard to get the plug started square into the trans while doing it quickly and avoiding burns. I tried wet rags on the exhaust, but they got in my way. An 8mm hex driver with a ball end allowed me to better align the plug in the trans threaded port (photo2) so that I could quickly start the plug, although I still used my fingers to screw it in more quickly. The ball end 8mm hex driver needs to be about seven or eight inches long. I ground the ball end by hand, using the fit into my old Fill Plug as a guide, and it allows more wobble than commercial ball ends when fully inserted into the Fill Plug.

My homemade tool could be improved: I cut down an L-shaped key to make it, and it was not perfectly straight. It would have been better to have a round shaft too, because the flats bind a little on the exhaust pipes. This technique depends a lot on the exact alignment of the truck’s exhaust, and it might work better on some trucks and hardly at all on others.

2) Leveling transmission versus leveling the truck. I changed out my 8HP70 ATF at the same time a friend changed his. He took his truck to a friend with a lift, used Mopar 8&9 speed ATF, used an OE Mopar pan, and used the same temp range and shift protocol. They did not level the transmission, only the truck. His result so far seems fine.

My thoughts are: a) the temp range from 86 degF to 122 degF is pretty broad, and the ATF expands as it gets hot, so the ZF engineers built in some wiggle room, b) ZF warns about over-filling, and the level truck with angled RAM trans installation should result in an under-fill instead, and c) with the transmission pumping the fluid while filling and adjusting, the bulk of the fluid is in the torque converter, valve body, and rest of the case, so the amount of under-fill with the truck level is probably not too extreme. This would be consistent with many thinking level truck is fine, while a few find their trans is too low on fluid (from how much fluid I got out of my truck, it may have been on the low side from the factory fill).

Hope this helps those doing the same or similar job in the future.

A 6" flexible extension in 1/4" or 3/8" drive might be the better way to go,or a wobble extension ,would let you use a shorter allen key.Good write up though Marine

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J4765-4-Inch-Flexible-Extension/dp/B001HWE7WW

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00239A-Flexible-Extension-Piece/dp/B001223OF8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29TRKM7HFFWJ&keywords=6%22%2Bflexible%2Bdrive%2B3%2F8%22%2Bextension&qid=1698510222&sprefix=6%2Bflexible%2Bdrive%2B3%2F8%2Bextension%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-4&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81201-8-Inch-Wobble-Extension/dp/B000NI93AW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=33IKZ9EV43MLC&keywords=6+inch+wobble+extension+3%2F8+drive&qid=1698510443&sprefix=6%22+wobble+drive+3%2F8%22+extension%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Drive-Wobble-Extension-Set/dp/B000NI938Y/ref=sr_1_4?crid=23DUDY2QIY733&keywords=6+inch+wobble+extension+1%2F4%22+drive&qid=1698510513&sprefix=6+inch+wobble+extension+1%2F4+drive%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4

 

[NETim]

I just wore a long cuff leather welding glove when it came time to replace the fill plug. A little cumbersome but I didn't get burned either.

 

[AlexC2350]

Hey quick update on this. I did end up double checking the fill level on my own I was a little over half a quart low. Likely chance they didn’t level the trans when filling it back up as they said they did. Wild one was right on double checking. Or I just over filled it haha. Time will tell.

When I do this again I’ll do it myself, it wasn’t hard at all, as many have said. Just jacking the back up a mile was interesting. Im also a bit slow burned my hand a few time despite being fully aware that were ways around that.

 

[Wild one]

Hey quick update on this. I did end up double checking the fill level on my own I was a little over half a quart low. Likely chance they didn’t level the trans when filling it back up as they said they did. Wild one was right on double checking. Or I just over filled it haha. Time will tell.

When I do this again I’ll do it myself, it wasn’t hard at all, as many have said. Just jacking the back up a mile was interesting. Im also a bit slow burned my hand a few time despite being fully aware that were ways around that.

You'd basically have to hang the truck straight up and down by the back bumper to overfill the 8 speed,lol. I think you're good to go now