ABS stuck?

[EmberheartParts]

Hey guys I'm trying to figure out why my rear brakes keep locking up.

Recently I went off roading and got it down in the mud pretty good. Since then my rear breaks have been sticking.

I just put on new rear brake pads, shoes, new hardware kits, rotors, and a rear end abs speed sensor. I cleaned everything while it was all apart. The bearing seemed a little worn, but they were not floppy or anything, just a small amount of wiggle.

About a year ago I redid the front end. All new struts, brakes, rotors, bearings, ball joints, a-arms, rims, tires, etc.

All of the parts were in the "pro" section of rock auto or came from summit racing. I didn't use any of the cheapie junk chinese parts.

So pretty much everything is new, but the ABS breaks keep locking up. Its most noticeable when I'm going slow because the rear breaks lock and chirp when they lock up.

I dont think its the e brakes. I loosened the star bolt all the way on both sides when installing and one sides cable is off while I wait for a new one to come in. So they are both set completely off.

I've noticed for a while that it seems like the ABS activates pretty easily when I'm driving around, but I do a fair bit of work related hauling, off roading, and aggressive driving when I'm out in the country away from traffic. I'm not too sure if its activating normally and I'm just driving aggressive, or if its coming on too much. In the past everything I've driven only kicked the ABS on when you stomped it, but it comes on in my truck @ about 2/3 pressed brake pedal and sometimes 1/2 pressed.

Any ideas?

Also I'm new to the Forum. My names Desmond, I own a small welding/fabrication/cnc shop in Arkansas. I make everything from fencing to furniture, and now more recently, I've started making off road equipment.

 

[EmberheartParts]

These forums are kinda dead.

 

[justin13703]

I wish I had something to tell you man but I don’t have any experience with that issue. Hopefully someone with some knowledge with the rear brakes will see this thread soon.

 

[BWL]

The rear slides are too tight and easily get stuck with mud. Have to take the callipers out and clean and lube them. I do this at least once a year sometimes twice. I run in a lot of muddy conditions and as a result of this design flaw I do rear brakes every year. Fronts last me about 80,000 km. My last set or rears only made 18,000

 

[EmberheartParts]

Well I gotta admit I made a dumb mistake. After all that it turned out that I had it in 4x4 and that's why it was popping when I made sharp turns at low speeds. The little module that plugs into the transfer case has a broken wire socket so the 4x4 light wasn't coming on. Switched it back to 2x4 and pulled the module off my old broken transfer case to swap it over. I dont know if this broke when I was installing this new one 6 mo ago and I didn't notice, or if I got something up there when I was offroading and ripped it out.

Either way I'm back on the road with all new brakes that work great. Only thing left is to replace that parking break wire when it comes in later this week and its back to 100%

@BWL what if I pull the small rubber plug that's removed when you want to loosen up the parking brake adjustment, and sprayed a pressure washer in there and around the caliper. Wouldn't that wash all the mud and gunk when I'm offroading out?

And the whole idea that my ABS was coming on more easily wasn't true, its just the noise of the front breaks. I went with Drilled and Slotted front rotors and Centric POWER STOP Z23966 brakes. I've removed the tire and there are no deep scratches in the rotor or anything to indicate that its broken on the front. I think the drilled and slotted rotors just make more noise. I'll have some time late next week to pull the pads off on the front and make sure there isn't sand or something stuck between the pad that could be causing the noise.

So all in all I think I've gotten it figured out. Silly mistake :s

 

[BWL]

Well I gotta admit I made a dumb mistake. After all that it turned out that I had it in 4x4 and that's why it was popping when I made sharp turns at low speeds. The little module that plugs into the transfer case has a broken wire socket so the 4x4 light wasn't coming on. Switched it back to 2x4 and pulled the module off my old broken transfer case to swap it over. I dont know if this broke when I was installing this new one 6 mo ago and I didn't notice, or if I got something up there when I was offroading and ripped it out.

Either way I'm back on the road with all new brakes that work great. Only thing left is to replace that parking break wire when it comes in later this week and its back to 100%

@BWL what if I pull the small rubber plug that's removed when you want to loosen up the parking brake adjustment, and sprayed a pressure washer in there and around the caliper. Wouldn't that wash all the mud and gunk when I'm offroading out?

And the whole idea that my ABS was coming on more easily wasn't true, its just the noise of the front breaks. I went with Drilled and Slotted front rotors and Centric POWER STOP Z23966 brakes. I've removed the tire and there are no deep scratches in the rotor or anything to indicate that its broken on the front. I think the drilled and slotted rotors just make more noise. I'll have some time late next week to pull the pads off on the front and make sure there isn't sand or something stuck between the pad that could be causing the noise.

So all in all I think I've gotten it figured out. Silly mistake :s

Anything you do to clean around the brakes will help. I pressure wash my undercarriage once a month. Seems to have helped a lot since I've only changed 1 tie rod in 250,000 km as far as front end and I find and fix any leaks pretty quick between it always being cleaned and the dust. Back brakes are the only thing that give me issues. I also seem to rot out the e-brake pads pretty quick.