Adding power outlet to bed

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Tuggr2

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By using the 5th wheel parallel line which on the Ram there is a connector on the frame and you still have the 7 pin on the bumper for the trailer. There is a 40 amp line on booth 7 pin outlets.I used to carry my electronic cooler in the TT and plug into the 12 volt outlet there.. You can also use the 12 volt plug and plug in an inverter if you need 110 volt. Just remember with the source power being 13.8 volt you will only have 552 watts for the inverter not the 1000 or more that is on the label.
That's 4.1 amp for the inverter.. Lots of power to run the cooler..
 
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pjram

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By using the 5th wheel parallel line which on the Ram there is a connector on the frame and you still have the 7 pin on the bumper for the trailer. There is a 40 amp line on booth 7 pin outlets.I used to carry my electronic cooler in the TT and plug into the 12 volt outlet there.. You can also use the 12 volt plug and plug in an inverter if you need 110 volt. Just remember with the source power being 13.8 volt you will only have 552 watts for the inverter not the 1000 or more that is on the label.
That's 4.1 amp for the inverter.. Lots of power to run the cooler..
I’m not quite understanding where this connection can be found?
 

crash68

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I’m not quite understanding where this connection can be found?
See my post #7 above for a kit to add what he's talking about.
 

Different Drummer

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By using the 5th wheel parallel line which on the Ram there is a connector on the frame and you still have the 7 pin on the bumper for the trailer. There is a 40 amp line on booth 7 pin outlets.I used to carry my electronic cooler in the TT and plug into the 12 volt outlet there.. You can also use the 12 volt plug and plug in an inverter if you need 110 volt. Just remember with the source power being 13.8 volt you will only have 552 watts for the inverter not the 1000 or more that is on the label.
That's 4.1 amp for the inverter.. Lots of power to run the cooler..
40 Amps through the 12V line in the seven pin connector??
I also want to run a Dometic freezer in the bed of the truck to bring frozen Cod home from Newfoundland. I would love to be able to plug into the seven pin trailer plug to get the 12V. However, I have never seen a seven pin set up that would carry much amperage through the 12V line. Just looking at the wire size would indicate that not much amperage gets supplied through that line. I have avoided using that source because I was dubious about what it could supply amperage wise. I would be delighted to be incorrect though.
 
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crash68

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40 Amps through the 12V line in the seven pin connector??.
The 13-20 Gen4 1500s 7 pin +12V is fused at 30 amps(fuse F11), I'm not sure if the HD trucks are fused at 40 amps
 

Different Drummer

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The 13-20 Gen4 1500s 7 pin +12V is fused at 30 amps(fuse F11), I'm not sure if the HD trucks are fused at 40 amps
Well, 30 amps would be plenty for what I need. I am happy to hear that. I have been too lazy to build a shunt and test the amperage across that 12V line. I guess I was too quick to Assume ( you know what that means ) that the voltage loss in the length of the wire run from the battery accompanied by the wire gauge was going to supply nothing near 30 amps. I guess the down and quick way to see is make a single wire harness from a seven pin connector lying around and give it a try.
To the OP, sorry for jumping in. If all this is correct I would find a way to tap into the 12V's that are supplied through the seven pin. Perhaps the earlier mentioned harness which would leave your factory 7 pin available for your trailer hook up.
Good luck
 
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pjram

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Well, 30 amps would be plenty for what I need. I am happy to hear that. I have been too lazy to build a shunt and test the amperage across that 12V line. I guess I was too quick to Assume ( you know what that means ) that the voltage loss in the length of the wire run from the battery accompanied by the wire gauge was going to supply nothing near 30 amps. I guess the down and quick way to see is make a single wire harness from a seven pin connector lying around and give it a try.
To the OP, sorry for jumping in. If all this is correct I would find a way to tap into the 12V's that are supplied through the seven pin. Perhaps the earlier mentioned harness which would leave your factory 7 pin available for your trailer hook up.
Good luck
I’m glad you are jumping in. I’m trying to learn by others posts. Looking under the truck where the 7 pin connector makes me anxious about cutting into it. I’m hoping to find an easy way to keep me from screwing it up. Funny thing is I’m willing to pay someone to install one but have failed to find anyone. The dealer said no, my mechanic said no, two places that specialize in aftermarket truck accessories said no. So for now I’m thinking let it go or work up the balls to do it. It’s not that hard, I’m overthinking it. Maybe I need a therapist instead of a mechanic
:)
 

Different Drummer

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I’m glad you are jumping in. I’m trying to learn by others posts. Looking under the truck where the 7 pin connector makes me anxious about cutting into it. I’m hoping to find an easy way to keep me from screwing it up. Funny thing is I’m willing to pay someone to install one but have failed to find anyone. The dealer said no, my mechanic said no, two places that specialize in aftermarket truck accessories said no. So for now I’m thinking let it go or work up the balls to do it. It’s not that hard, I’m overthinking it. Maybe I need a therapist instead of a mechanic
:)
Looks like you and I are trying to accomplish the same thing for the same purpose. Powering a cooler / freezer.
The main difference is you need the seven pin for your trailer and I do not.
I am still rather dubious as to how much amperage can honestly flow through that 12V supply line. I have not investigated the wire size yet. It is a long run to carry 12V from the voltage source to that trailer plug and then you need to consider the additional run from the trailer plug / harness to your cooler. I have installed solar systems on my RV's in the past and always tried to keep the voltage as high as my controller would handle and the wire runs a short as possible while using the largest gauge wire as practicable. All in an effort to reduce loss. Think of the power coming to your house. It is not at household voltage on its route to get to your residence. It is higher voltage. 12V is pretty low voltage to carry any appreciable about of current over long runs through small wire.

I never liked using inverters. Just does not make sense to me. If your appliance will run on 12V I would stay with 12V. If you have to go with the inverter I would place the inverter as close to the battery as possible and use the 120V from the inverter to make the long run to your appliance. ( reference what I said above in regards to voltage loss )

An option I am considering is using a lithium iron phosphate ( LifePO4 ) battery dedicated to run the freezer with a B2B ( battery to battery ) charger to maintain the LifePO4 battery. This would eliminate the worry of drawing off your starting battery and the LifePO4 system is a far superior way for powering your appliance. LifePO4 batteries are pretty amazing and have their
own protection circuits built into them. They are also expensive compared to lead acid type batteries. Dometic makes a self contained battery / charger that might be the way for you to go. It is portable and totally self contained. It will charge from 110-120V as well as 12V. It will charge from solar as well though this probably does not interest you. It can be charged from 12V simultaneously while in use to power your cooler. It has a built in B2B charger that will function from typical 12V outlet power. ( cigarette lighter ) None of the lithium stuff is inexpensive so you would have to weigh the cost with how often you would use it.
You might want to check it out. It is a model PLB 400 made by Dometic.
I was going to build my own B2B / LifePO4 system using a battery from Battleborn and a stand alone B2B charger but the PLB 400 is catching my attention as it is quite portable and everything is self contained in one package.
Hope this did not add confusion to what you are considering.
Good luck.
DD
 
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pjram

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You’re being helpful thanks. I’m thinking the best thing for me to do is just get the heaviest gauge wire with a fuse and go directly to the battery. I’m thinking even if I did tap into the 7 pin I’d be robbing amps from the trailer while towing. Or maybe better to tap into a fuse so I don’t forget about the cooler and run my battery down.
 

Different Drummer

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You’re being helpful thanks. I’m thinking the best thing for me to do is just get the heaviest gauge wire with a fuse and go directly to the battery. I’m thinking even if I did tap into the 7 pin I’d be robbing amps from the trailer while towing. Or maybe better to tap into a fuse so I don’t forget about the cooler and run my battery down.
If running a dedicated 12V heavy gauge wire to the bed you could easily add a one way diode to prevent unwanted battery discharge. There are many choices available. Like this:
https://invertersrus.com/product/vi...QkINHUUxRRVrHOHMXlrCFozwE0l7luSgaAv0eEALw_wcB
 

retired

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I have run an ARB 50 on my jeeps for several years and they run way more efficient on 10g wire. I have had buddies who try and run them on lighter wire and the fridges run more and harder on the battery when parked. ARB makes a nice harness you run straight from your battery. I read a post on the forum expedition portal and someone heated up his lighter wiring enough to melt the plastic.
 

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Well let's bring this old thread back to life;
I just got a 12V fridge/freezer for keeping things cold or frozen mainly for summer grocery shopping or any trips.
So to get power in the bed I added a 5th wheel wireing harness and then got a fancy adapter from Amazon.
1753303414457.png

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The install went well, I did pop the factory 7 pin out of the bumper so I could get the wire connector apart.
the tee installed..............................................................it's along reach up to mate the plug and connector
1 Tee connector installed.jpg 2 long way up.jpg
a close up of the rear install and connector...........................the installed 7 pin trailer connector
3 close up back side.jpg4 completed truck side in bed.jpg
 
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04fxdwgi

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A friend of mine tackled it differently. He installed a #27 deep cycle battery in the bed to specifically feed an inverter so he wouldn't kill the main battery. He simply ran a #6 wire for power back to the battery for isolated charging supply through a DC to DC charger. System was pretty foolproof, supplied a ton of power and never killed the main battery.
 

LouM

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A friend of mine tackled it differently. He installed a #27 deep cycle battery in the bed to specifically feed an inverter so he wouldn't kill the main battery. He simply ran a #6 wire for power back to the battery for isolated charging supply through a DC to DC charger. System was pretty foolproof, supplied a ton of power and never killed the main battery.
I had considered doing just that but decided to go this way instead. Also the new fridge/freezer has it's own voltage cutoff system and will shut it's self down before drawing the battery down below a selectable set point.
 

cooltsi

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Here’s something cool, just googled 7 pin to 12v cigarette lighter, then I guess you could plug in an inverter and maybe run a few things. But for your cooler I think this would be the way to go?

View attachment 226723
Worked great inflating bike tires this weekend! Truck didn't need to be on to run the compressor.
 

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