Amsoil, but which one?

[audio1der]

this is what ive heard.


not sure on what filter to run. When I did the first oil change myself I used the matching Mobile 1 filter.

I've heard some get the Mopar filter from the dealer, thoughts on that?

I, and others (Google it) have had problems with Mopar filters letting go of the o-ring as you unscrew it from the base plate. If you don't notice, you end up with 2 o-rings which won't seal and will puke out a lot of the new oil you just put in at startup; a HUGE mess and PITA if the truck is up on ramps and you don't have more oil

I'm not being pro-Amsoil but more anti-Mopar oil filter. even before I became a dealer I stopped using the Mopar filters.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

Any Amsoil part# beginning with "EA" is designed for the extended drain intervals and Signature oil. The Wix filters are good for the O.E. and XL oils.

-Also a dealer

That's another thing, my truck is set up for 10k mile oil change intervals. With the signature oil I think is for 15k right? Should I still change it at 10k or if I were to use XL oil, should it be changed at about 8k?

 

[Mega-Hemi]

Royal Purple recently took out an additive package and is not the same oil it used to be.

Do you have a link to this info? Just curious because I recently ordered a case of RP as I planned to switch back from M1 this summer..

 

[hemihustlin]

I, and others (Google it) have had problems with Mopar filters letting go of the o-ring as you unscrew it from the base plate. If you don't notice, you end up with 2 o-rings which won't seal and will puke out a lot of the new oil you just put in at startup; a HUGE mess and PITA if the truck is up on ramps and you don't have more oil

I'm not being pro-Amsoil but more anti-Mopar oil filter. even before I became a dealer I stopped using the Mopar filters.

I beg to differ. 99% of the time that the gasket sticks to the mating surface its because it was not properly lubed before install.
100% of the time i clean the mating surface with a rag before installing the new filter ensuring that i will never have a double gasket embarrasment/maybe cost $$$

Anything less is carelessness.

Agreed the moper filters are not great, a decent amount of cardbord inside, a good solid baseplate and good crimping ( as should be expected on OEM products lol no filter blowouts) but definatly not an extended interval filter
Also l mention im talking about the old big mopar filter, i understand the new ones come with smaller filters but if im not mistaken you can use the old big style.

 

[audio1der]

I beg to differ. 99% of the time that the gasket sticks to the mating surface its because it was not properly lubed before install.
100% of the time i clean the mating surface with a rag before installing the new filter ensuring that i will never have a double gasket embarrasment/maybe cost $$$

Anything less is carelessness.

Agreed the moper filters are not great, a decent amount of cardbord inside, a good solid baseplate and good crimping ( as should be expected on OEM products lol no filter blowouts) but definatly not an extended interval filter
Also l mention im talking about the old big mopar filter, i understand the new ones come with smaller filters but if im not mistaken you can use the old big style.

Which is it- not lubed o-ring, or poorly cleaned mating surface?
I lube the o-ring every time. It's just part of the oil change.
I have changed the oil in my '01 Sentra every 5k for the last 285,000Km doing so without issue. Also GFs cars, the wife's cars, friends cars, all done the same. The only time I've experienced an o-ring issue was a Mopar filter (purchased at the dealer myself) on our '08 Caravan.
I'm not perfect by any stretch, but every o-ring has been lubed. I've never cleaned the base plate more than maybe to catch any residual drips before screwing on the new filter. Maybe it's a good idea, but I've never heard of this before.

 

[Burla]

Do you have a link to this info? Just curious because I recently ordered a case of RP as I planned to switch back from M1 this summer..

So they used to be group 4 and high Moly, 185ppm on average. It is in all of the old VOA's at around that number. A couple years ago the Moly was no longer in the VOA's or the UOA's of Royal Purple. You can see PQIA's VOA of Royal Purple here, note the Molybdenum level. It is also common knowledge that they are not 100% group 4, but that does not come up in analysis's, you need a very special type of test for that. You can look at the average PPM of Moly in most of the top oils here. This is not elemental Moly, but rather organic oil soluble Moly in all of these oils and is very beneficial to metal to metal wear, especially before the oil rotates on a cold engine. Most of us oil guys were pretty disappointed when RP took it out. The wear numbers are also all over the board. I'm not saying it is bad oil, but these are facts.

 

[hemihustlin]

I clean the base to
A: make sure the old gasket is no longer there
B: make sure any debris i could have brushed onto it is gone
C: clean off all the old oil so when i install the new filter it doesnt get all dirty

I have had more stuck gaskets then i can count (job) and they were all napa or equivilant run-of-the-mill filters. Now one could assume its only cheap filters that does this and ill agree they do have a tendancy but dry apply any filter and watch it stick after
I have personally dry applied a few filters just to see if it was ******** and sure enough they were stuck like hell.
Now see personally ive never had a problem with my dodge filters but ive only done 2 oil changes on it and the next time its not going to be a dodge and its not becuase of the gasket

 

[Lhemi]

Alright Burla I'm going to try some Amsol... You've talked me into it. 12 months I've been reading your data, it sound like pretty good stuff, and I'm a die hard RP guy.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

I also have a question about the change intervals as they are mentioned on the Amsoil website. It says up to:

25k miles - normal service
15k miles - severe service

Severe service is described as
- Turbo/supercharged engines, commercial or fleet vehicles, excessive idling, vehicles with more than 100,000 miles without prior continuous use of AMSOIL motor oil, daily short-trip driving less than 10 miles (16 km), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving.

Wondering why "short-trip" driving is considered Severe Duty and how that decreases the life/oil change interval?

I live about 12 miles from work so it gets about 24 miles of driving daily (unless I use my motorcycle) is that severe?

 

[Etroze86]

It is due to fuel/air mix is pretty fat meaning there is more fuel before the engine is warm and this seaps past the rings in a motor. This ends up in the oil and starts breaking it down. I personally would throw in under severe conditions if you live in a climate that gets severely cold or severely hot on a regular basis.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

So...

Texas = Severe

lol

 

[Bully's Performance]

Very good info in this thread, I too am a die hard Amsoil guy

 

[Etroze86]

yes absolutely, I live in North Dakota and obious reason for us to be considered severe is because of the cold conditions in the winter, but what most people don't realize is we can also reach over 100 degrees in the summer to. Plus with all the farming that goes on in the state it get pretty damn dusty. If its worth anything I will be doing the 15k mile once a year change cause my truck drives a mile to work and a mile back home.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

I see that the service interval for "severe" condition reduces it to 15k miles from the regular 25k miles according to the Signature series. That's a big difference by the way.

How is it that we can run 10k miles between oil changes on OEM oil (according to dealer) ?

If it recommends 15k miles I think ill stick to 10k miles changes, because isn't the computer set to 10k miles to call for an oil change? I don't think id like driving around showing 0% oil life left for 5k miles beyond the recommended service.

 

[Etroze86]

10k is absolutely acceptable and when you do that first change make sure you get an oil analysis done to find out how much life you have left in it. Oh and the change in milage intervals from 25k to 15k comes down to how much that the filter can handle. If you aren't using the EO filter from Amsoil for sure stick to the 10k changes.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

I will be using the Amsoil filter as well. but im mentioning it would be weird to go beyond 10k miles when the trucks computer says 0% oil life. Which is what it is set for with OEM oil.

I doubt it knows that you are running amsoil and a high life oil, right?

I did my first oil change on it when it had about 4k miles or so and went straight to mobile 1.

 

[Etroze86]

It depends on how the oil monitor works, mine works on milage so every 3500 miles i have to reset it. If the new trucks actually anylize oil if might show you have life after 10k miles. I don't mind reseting the computer but thats me and I keep a log of when I do maintanence so keeps my mind at ease with stuff like that.

 

[Arctic-Rodz]

It depends on how the oil monitor works, mine works on milage so every 3500 miles i have to reset it. If the new trucks actually anylize oil if might show you have life after 10k miles. I don't mind reseting the computer but thats me and I keep a log of when I do maintanence so keeps my mind at ease with stuff like that.

I doubt it, every 1k miles my engine life monitor goes down by 1% so I think its set to the 10k mile oil change interval.

don't think our trucks are THAT smart lol

 

[Etroze86]

Most vehicles aren't since putting an actual analysis system would be really really expensive.

 

[Mega-Hemi]

So they used to be group 4 and high Moly, 185ppm on average. It is in all of the old VOA's at around that number. A couple years ago the Moly was no longer in the VOA's or the UOA's of Royal Purple. You can see PQIA's VOA of Royal Purple here, note the Molybdenum level. It is also common knowledge that they are not 100% group 4, but that does not come up in analysis's, you need a very special type of test for that. You can look at the average PPM of Moly in most of the top oils here. This is not elemental Moly, but rather organic oil soluble Moly in all of these oils and is very beneficial to metal to metal wear, especially before the oil rotates on a cold engine. Most of us oil guys were pretty disappointed when RP took it out. The wear numbers are also all over the board. I'm not saying it is bad oil, but these are facts.

I see. Guess I'll be switching to Red Line after this case is gone.

Another question for ya, I've been changing my oil every 5k miles (5w-30 Mobile 1 or RP). I see some people are going 10k between changes. With synthetic oils what's your take on that? I don't think I meet the "severe" category. Only tow once and a while and my commute to work is an hour one-way, bout 6x a month. Basically, I've put 33k miles on my truck in the last 4yrs. So, 10k mile changes would put me just under a change a year.

2006 5.7 non-MDS Auto.