Any tips on towing a car trailer with a 23 Limited?

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diymirage

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and...just to get the pot going

when you tie the mudstank down, do it in such a way that IF you loose one strap, the other 3 will keep the car in place

(ill let you figure out what that means, but heres a hint dont EVER cross your straps...EVER)
 

Wellcraft

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Tow haul mode changes your shifting points to maximize your drive train. When I tow or haul bed loads of top soil I use it the entire time. I would start off before I towed with a tank of 93 octane, and use 93 while you tow.

The U-haul trailer with that Mustang on it should tow pretty easy.
What's the purpose of using the higher octane rating?
 

crash68

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I'm new to RAM and with my 2010 Tundra there was no need to up the octane when towing.
It all depends on engine type and tuning. The supercharged Tundra requires premium fuel, so do the newer versions that are turbo charged.
The engine conditions while normal driving are vastly different when pulling a grade. Under a heavy load the engine can become more heat soaked, higher temperatures and with forced induction engine higher cylinder pressures, both of those conditions can cause pre-detonation which higher octane fuel resist from happening.
 

Wellcraft

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It is not just the Ram, when ever I tow I always use the highest octane I can find in the tow vehicle. For the reasons stated above.
Is this just something you do or is this called for in the owners manual of other trucks besides RAM? I'm just asking because upping the octane rating when towing is new to me.

I towed a 3000+ lb boat with my 2010 Tundra and never had an issue using 87 octane. I bought the truck in 2010 but I don't recall reading anything in the owners manual about using a higher octane when towing. 3000 lbs isn't a lot considering the truck was rated to tow up to 10000 lbs.

I'll be towing a small motorcycle trailer with 3 motorcycles this summer from PA to Rapid City, SD so I guess I better plan on using 93.
 
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Wellcraft

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It all depends on engine type and tuning. The supercharged Tundra requires premium fuel, so do the newer versions that are turbo charged.
The engine conditions while normal driving are vastly different when pulling a grade. Under a heavy load the engine can become more heat soaked, higher temperatures and with forced induction engine higher cylinder pressures, both of those conditions can cause pre-detonation which higher octane fuel resist from happening.
My 2010 Tundra wasn't supercharged, just had the standard V8 and I always used 87 but I wasn't towing a heavy load just a 21 foot boat weighing over 3000 lbs. Good to learn something new today
 

turkeybird56

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My 2010 Tundra wasn't supercharged, just had the standard V8 and I always used 87 but I wasn't towing a heavy load just a 21 foot boat weighing over 3000 lbs. Good to learn something new today
Read yer owners manual. HD Towing and High temps require 91 Octane on SST motors. HO require 91 Octane always.
 

ts27330

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Bought a 7500 lb ball and checked with GEICO and they said I’m good. My brother already has insurance on the car. I may take some coverage out from U-haul just to be safe.

Thanks for all the input.
Most auto insurance cover the trailer (by default). Call your insurer.
 

DzRide

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Sorry, but when I plug the 7-pin in for our cargo trailer or travel trailer the rear park sensors are turned off automatically. No need to worry about them. 2019 2500.
 

RacerDave

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On an open trailer like that cars tow like nothing is there. At least with my Cummins. Expect a small loss of mpg. My fully enclosed with race car, tools, spares and equipment is around 8,000 lbs and still tows well, but I lose about 6 mpg with that one. As others said, Tow/Haul the whole time, Park Sense off. You'll be fine and happy you bought a RAM.
 

RacerDave

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Sorry, but when I plug the 7-pin in for our cargo trailer or travel trailer the rear park sensors are turned off automatically. No need to worry about them. 2019 2500.
I'm jealous! My '14 freaks out until I turn park sense off.
 
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DanAR

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Severe weather caused a cancelation so trips been delayed until Friday. I elected not to take the insurance.
 

MrFigs

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I'm jealous! My '14 freaks out until I turn park sense off.
Both my '12 and '17 Limited turn the rear park sensors off when you plug into the 7pin, now it could be 'cause both mine have the OEM trailer brake controller, or if your trailer doesn't have electric brakes (the u-hauls use 4 flats and surge brakes).


Now just in general to other posts in this thread..

Trailer ball, I've looked and looked most 2" balls are 6000lbs, but I've seen up to 8000lbs, a 10K 2" is like a Unicorn.. well anytime I look for one. You'd need a 2 5/16" ball for 10K. BUT if your ball mount is only rated for 6K, the ball rating doesn't matter, really for the ease of it they should almost be a matched pair, 8K ball, 8K ball mount. I have a 8K ball on a 10K WD ball mount, but I know that combo is only good to 8K, but the trailer I use it for is absolutely maxed at 8K including the trailer, so 5.5-6K-ish on deck.

Fuel and Tow/haul.. I tow on 87 octane unless it's realllly hot or I'm going to the mountains. Tow/Haul, empty 2K trailer, I don't bother unless it's hilly and I want the extra engine braking. Loaded, in the city sure, flat highway almost no head wind or even a tail wind I turn it off and turn if on before any hills.

Highway and cruise control, I use it... but once again for hills be prepared to cancel and take over otherwise the truck will just downshift and redline it to to try and keep the set speed. It's interesting sometimes going down the highway on cruise, tow haul off with a 7K camper and the truck will actually kick into MDS mode.
 

Cruze418

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I tow my 22' enclosed trailer with a car in it with no issues. Just keep your eyes a little farther down the road, surprises can be bad. 87 gas, your fuel mileage will be cut in half in tow mode. My '21 has 3:22 gear ratio.
 

Daniel Scheppman

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Check your owners manual for the specified octane rating for towing. It will more than likely say to use 89 octane, the only thing 93 octane will do is cost more $$$. I have a '24 2500 6.4L and that's what mine says to use, I only use 89 as it runs more efficiently overall anyway. You're probably already done with this towing job, I just wanted to add my point of view. I hope all worked out well for you. Cap'n Dan
 
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DanAR

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I now have 3 trailer balls and matching hitch mounts - 1-7/8 2000#, 2” 6,000#, 2” 7500#. I can lay the hitch mounts all side by side and I can’t find one iota of difference amongst them, except for one thing. The length of the shaft and the distance of the pin to the ball. Otherwise the thickness of the metal, the assembly/welding, all identical. I did get a 7500 mount with more drop as my RAM sits higher than the mid-sized SUVs and Ford Lightning I used to haul with. So apparently they are primarily reducing the free length and lever length (moment arm) of the amount to up-rate the hitch mounts.

I am surprised there doesn’t seem to be some difference in hitch pins - at least for the 1-7/8 and 2” ball mounts, I even asked the U-haul guys about it and they basically said a pin is a pin. Surprisingly they only require a 2000 lb minimum 2” ball and hitch mounts for this trailer!

Edit: I should have added I have no idea how they are distinguishing a 2” 2000# ball from a 2” 6000# ball or from a 2” 7500# ball. Outwardly they all look indistinguishable except for the load weight stamped on them. Maybe the metallurgy.
 
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dhay13

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U-Haul trailer will have a 4 pin plug, not the 7 pin most car haulers have as they use surge brakes, not electric. I rented one to tow my 2005 Mustang 3 hours home after I bought it. I used to drag race and had my own car trailer for years so was apprehensive about renting a crappy looking U-Haul. Turns out that thing towed great. I'd rent one again in a heartbeat. I was towing it with my 2500 6.4 so different world that you will be in. But yeah I used to 2 wheel straps that came on the trailer and also took 4 of my own so it wasn't going anywhere.
 

rzr6-4

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Edit: I should have added I have no idea how they are distinguishing a 2” 2000# ball from a 2” 6000# ball or from a 2” 7500# ball. Outwardly they all look indistinguishable except for the load weight stamped on them. Maybe the metallurgy.

A practice I have seen at a former employer (not with hitch balls but similar order flow process) they may be ordering all of their balls from the same manufacturer to the same spec. If they need 2000# balls, they test them to 2000# standard and if they pass then they get stamped for 2000# and sold. Then when they need 7500# balls, it's the exact same process but tested to a higher standard. If that particular batch fails the 7500# test but met the 2000# or 6000# spec, they will be stamped for that and another batch ordered in hopes that it will meet the 7500# spec.

There very well may be some difference between the models, but more than once I have been behind the scenes on selling products that are literally the exact same thing, one is just rated higher because that batch was tested and thus legally backed to a higher standard.
 
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