Anyone doing cab vents needs to watch this video :) Also a note on the rear seat mod ;)

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TJP440

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I have read and watched many different ways to install the new vents. This guy IMO NAILS IT
You can watch the entire video or FF to ~ the 6 minute mark where he shows how easy is it to get them in. gotta love YouTube ;) YOUTUBE LINK

Also, wanted to comment some of the videos I watched on the rear seat mod were erroneous in showing where to trim the hooks. Mine had to be cut significantly shorter just above the plastic retaining tab. I used play dough wadded up and sticking it to the backside of the hook.
I then raised the lower cushion while watching the top of the back cushion rise.
When it was at its highest point, I pushed it against the retaining loops on the cab.
Lowering both down there was a clear impression in the playdough of where the cut was needed.:)

Some used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I used an air saw with an 18-24 tooth blade. A sawzall would work as well. I suggest laying something under the hooks to catch the metal. In my case the retaining loops for the plastic had to be removed so I epoxied the remaining portion of the plastic to the metal and used zip ties to hold them together till the epoxy cured
Then a quick pass with a vacuum, reinstall the seats and it's Miller time :happy160:
 

Hudson

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I just replaced my vents last month, and I can tell you that if you use his method, you will definitely need silicone. Those exposed edges are fairly sharp and will slice and damage the gasket. The easiest way imo is to fish the new vent from the bottom of the truck. I didn't use silicone for fear that it will collect more dirt and debris than the gasket already does.
It has been a month and we had few downpours here in GA and the back seat floor is perfectly dry.
 
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TJP440

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I initially tried pulling them up from the bottom but they kept getting hung up. I wondered if the bed might be closer to the cab or possibly because I was working by myself. I had little to no trouble getting them in doing EXACTLY what he did. I did re-watch the video a few times as initially they didn't seem to want to go. After doing so and putting them in EXACTLY as he did, they almost fell through the opening.
The gaskets were undamaged as once it is in once can easily rotate the entire part and verify no damage. In fact the part would just sit there about 1/4 of the way down almost as though it was on a ledge. The silicone he was referring to was a RTV type sealant that dries, not a lube type that would attract dust etc. :happy160:
 

04fxdwgi

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did the same as in the video, with one change: tied a string to the vents so they wouldn't drop down between the cab and bed (they will get stuck on some trucks).

Also, removed the seats from truck to cut the hooks (used a die grinder).

Everything was super easy.
 

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three questions: would bad vents contribute to road noise? and, what would happen if you eliminated them and made the opening solid? would adding a layer of sound proofing help against road noise? (using that foil faced stuff)
 

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I guess I haven't looked ....do regular cab trucks have the same kind of vents?
 

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three questions: would bad vents contribute to road noise? and, what would happen if you eliminated them and made the opening solid? would adding a layer of sound proofing help against road noise? (using that foil faced stuff)
I sound proofed the rear cab wall when I cleaned and inspected the vents. Adding the foil backed deadner made a huge difference in the road noise , I wish I had done this years earlier.

I would highly recommend insulating the rear cab wall .
Yes the rcsb has them . Mine were from a chassis cab and built different than most I’ve seen o this site.
I searched for replacements that matched but could not find any , so I just washed and reinstalled.
 

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Looks like Ram gave Rodents a nice doggie-flap to freely come and go if they want.
 

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Yes the rcsb has them . Mine were from a chassis cab and built different than most I’ve seen on this site.

Thanks. Have to check mine.
 

Daw14

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68324094aa is the number for the chassis cab vents. This vent is a much stronger than what comes on 1500s .
I finally figured out I needed to look at 3500 series chassis cabs to locate these vents. I recommend these over the stock .

I had both in my hands at the same time and this one wins all the way !

I hope this can help everyone as this is superior to Those flimsy ones.
 
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TJP440

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Interesting, It almost appears as though the AB part number (regular 1500 vent) is part of the AA number.
Does the"hooded" portionof the AA (1st pic) go on the inside or outside of the cab?
I'm guessing outside? If so it would definitely stop the rodents and may be the exact reason for the addition of the "hood"

Are these a direct snap in replacement on the 1500's ?
if so would have been nice to Know a week or so ago :pp: :(:happy160:
 

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Daw14

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Hood goes outside . Yes this is what came on my 2014 RCSB from the factory.

I was going to swap with the 1500 style but when I saw the quality of these I decided to keep them.

I removed them through the cab. First popped them out towards the bed ,then kinda twisted them to work them through their hole and into the cab.

Install was reversed.

I have a new pair of the 1500 that I bought, however won’t use them . Free local pickup in west palm beach to anyone interested.
 

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three questions: would bad vents contribute to road noise? and, what would happen if you eliminated them and made the opening solid? would adding a layer of sound proofing help against road noise? (using that foil faced stuff)

Yes there's more noise when the vents have lost their flaps, I didn't notice it over time but I definitely noticed less noise with the new ones installed.

If you closed the holes I'm pretty sure your fresh air circulation wouldn't work as well (vent setting on HVAC) and if you get into a collision and the airbags all crowd the cabin at the same time I can't imagine that would be good for your health. Might even be unpleasant just closing the door from inside the sealed cabin.

I added sound deadener in mine, both to the rear of the cabin (between & beside the vents) and to the roof panel while I had the headliner out. Headliner was out to inspect for water damage. This is already a quiet truck but it did become slightly quieter. I had already installed deadener in the doors many years ago during a speaker install.

Here's a video on how to remove the purse hooks on a reg cab. https://youtu.be/Br18IJu2O6I
 

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ok...that will be my summer job...remove the rear seats, check the vents, and soundproof the back wall. (and i won't remove them)

for some reason, that rear passenger door always sounds like it's open.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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@markabby, in 2019 they changed the design of the cabin vents to a much better design stronger flaps a better rubber seal on all 4 sides of the vent body.
 

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one more question: when i was running the wire for my rear window cam, i noticed like some pull string thing back there. what does that do?

2020 1500 crew cab
 
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TJP440

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@markabby, in 2019 they changed the design of the cabin vents to a much better design stronger flaps a better rubber seal on all 4 sides of the vent body.
Do they look like the ones in my previous post (#11) or the one pictured here
2014-2020-ram-1500-2500-3500-body-side-aperture-exhauster-28930906423384_1868x1400.jpg
 
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TJP440

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one more question: when i was running the wire for my rear window cam, i noticed like some pull string thing back there. what does that do?

2020 1500 crew cab
maybe a pic would help ;)
 

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Do they look like the ones in my previous post (#11) or the one pictured here
View attachment 561361

The ones that had been in my 2015 had a grid of individual square flaps (9 I think) , most of which had fallen off at some point. The replacements I bought were like this with four full-width flaps.
 
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