I did relocate the batt the the rear, I also used that kit.
The kit puts the Battery between the rear fender and frame, just behind the passanger tire, and in front of the bumper.
The kit did not fit my RAM, my bed supports, where the kit bolts to, wore different then the SRT's. I had to put the tray more towards the center, in side the frame, where the SRT was out side the frame.
The way I mounted it is SUPER Strong.
I had Issue with the supplied wire, too small if you ask me. I picked up some "00" Welding wire. Its multi strand, very flexible, & has a very thick covering. Its not cheap. I made sure to secure it as often as often as I could, every 12" or less. to insure it does not "flex" or rub through.
The kit uses the factory mounting method, a block that holds the batt down at the bottom. I have found that during flying, this is not so secure.
I have modified the tray to use the "old skhool" J hook and top plate to lock the batt down. no issues sense.
Currently the "Main" 00 Power cable is feed to the old Batt tray under the hood. It looks good, but not great.
I'm going to move the main feed from the rear battery and connect it directly to the starter. from the starter, I'll run a new line to the terminal at the fuse block. From there I'll Run a much smaller line to 2 after market fuse blocks, I mounted in the old battery tray. one fuse block is constant 12V, the other fuse block, feed by a relay, is "KEY ON" 12V. All my "non factory" wiring feeds from ether of these 2 fuse centers. Each Fuse Center is protected by a HD 100AMP circuit breaker, with a manual lever to switch it off. Many "Fuses" have been replaced by auto reseting circuit breakers. Items, such as, Electric Water Pump, and Fans are run from auto resetting circuit breakers.
The Alt line (factory connects to fuse box terminal), will now be run all the way to the rear of the truck. This is done with 0/1 Fine thread multi strand welding wire.
That Alt line will connect to the BATT side of a Battery kill switch..
the one with the "rod"
crappy cell phone picture.
Boots are not tied down, with out the boots it looks real clean, I swear
All Power feeds through this switch, the Alt connects to the side that the Batt is on.
Note the Fuse holder, that holds a 40AMP fuse. This is for the clown that asks, "Hey, Whats this lever do?" and pushes it. Normally this would disconnect the whole electrical system, but if the truck is "OFF" the fuse will keep all the 12V computer crap feed. Now, try to start, or be running when this happens, then it'll shut down.
The Rod for the Batt kill will be on the driver side, above the bumper. push the lever and the truck will shut down.
I never really thought about the Batt Temp sensor. I may relocate that to the rear too. I use hi-end GM weather pack fittings, so I can move it, and make it look factory.
For me, the loss of ~40# off the front was worth it. As I race in sand, the lighter the front the better. It helped seat the rear too. As far as going "Wider" tires, I can't go much wider.
