Beltech 2/4 kit popping after (I've already replaced control arms, track bar and reseated torque after 4 months use)

[Geawiel]

It's driving me nuts, and I can't figure out what is causing it.

I did the Beltech kit, but replaced the shocks with QA1 single adjustable. With the softness set at 6 to 8, I get a light popping sound from the rear. I replaced the control arms, did the IHC relocation, replaced track bar, drove for a few months, then check the torque on the bolts again (control arms needed more uggaduggas). I still have the pop. Oh, and I check the pinion angle and everything matched. I can't figure out what else to check or do. I can't figure out what else would cause the pop. Is it just a matter of live with it? Handling is exactly as I would expect. No wag (the control arms were my issue before, if you remember my previous threads). It's just a solid handling and acceleration. The pop does seem to get less, to almost disappear, when I set the firmness higher.

 

[abouttobeglue]

I had a squeak clunk a while back, similar set up to yours, different shocks. Ended up reading about rear spring isolators being worn out, replaced with another set of factory , wish I had tried energy suspension or poly style, but I could find a fit. Replaced them and that fixed it.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I had a squeak clunk a while back, similar set up to yours, different shocks. Ended up reading about rear spring isolators being worn out, replaced with another set of factory , wish I had tried energy suspension or poly style, but I could find a fit. Replaced them and that fixed it.

The above is my first check, my second would be the sway bar standards if you have a sway bar. Third would be the panhard bar and the relocation bracket to level the bar, 4th. I would check the hoop above the diff center to see if you are hitting and last the top of your lower control arm where they bolt to the frame to see if the upper arm is connecting the bottom one.

 

[Rock Crawler]

It's driving me nuts, and I can't figure out what is causing it.

I did the Beltech kit, but replaced the shocks with QA1 single adjustable. With the softness set at 6 to 8, I get a light popping sound from the rear. I replaced the control arms, did the IHC relocation, replaced track bar, drove for a few months, then check the torque on the bolts again (control arms needed more uggaduggas). I still have the pop. Oh, and I check the pinion angle and everything matched. I can't figure out what else to check or do. I can't figure out what else would cause the pop. Is it just a matter of live with it? Handling is exactly as I would expect. No wag (the control arms were my issue before, if you remember my previous threads). It's just a solid handling and acceleration. The pop does seem to get less, to almost disappear, when I set the firmness higher.

When installing the rear control arms, did you tighten the bolts after the weight of the truck was on the suspension, or while the rear axle was hanging?

 

[Geawiel]

When installing the rear control arms, did you tighten the bolts after the weight of the truck was on the suspension, or while the rear axle was hanging?

I couldn't get to them very well on the ground or on a drive on lift. I had it up on a 2 post and used a pole jack (I can't think of the name of what I used) under the pumpkin to lift up the rear axle in hopes of putting weight on the suspension. I used that to lift it just to the below the point that it started to lift the truck off of the 2 post support arm.

 

[6speed4.7]

I couldn't get to them very well on the ground or on a drive on lift. I had it up on a 2 post and used a pole jack (I can't think of the name of what I used) under the pumpkin to lift up the rear axle in hopes of putting weight on the suspension. I used that to lift it just to the below the point that it started to lift the truck off of the 2 post support arm.

I think as long as you torqued everything (control arm front/back bolts, shocks, panhard bolts, sway bar end links) to ride height (19-20” center of hub to top of fender opening) you could eliminate bushing wind-up

 

[Wild one]

I couldn't get to them very well on the ground or on a drive on lift. I had it up on a 2 post and used a pole jack (I can't think of the name of what I used) under the pumpkin to lift up the rear axle in hopes of putting weight on the suspension. I used that to lift it just to the below the point that it started to lift the truck off of the 2 post support arm.

If you're using a 2 post lift,you're better off torquing the arms with the springs removed,as you can use stands under the axle to recreate ride height without lifting the truck off the lift.
Have you tried spraying one bushing at a time with WD40 to see if you can isolate the noise.
I agree the upper spring bushing can drive you nuts trying to find the noise it creates if it's wore out

 

[Geawiel]

If you're using a 2 post lift,you're better off torquing the arms with the springs removed,as you can use stands under the axle to recreate ride height without lifting the truck off the lift.
Have you tried spraying one bushing at a time with WD40 to see if you can isolate the noise.
I agree the upper spring bushing can drive you nuts trying to find the noise it creates if it's wore out

Everything got white lightning as I put it back together. Not dealing with seized **** like I had to when I took it all apart.

Also, used the track bar to gauge suspension load. I got the bar to about 5 deg away from level with the screw jack.

Edit: If I touched it, it got replaced with a new version. Isolators, sway bar links, everything. I didn't want to put back something worn out, or close to it, and have to take everything apart again.

As far as I can see, there is nothing contacting anything else. I can't see any wear or new metal where something is moving any way that it isn't supposed to be.

If anyone has an idea of a place to focus a safety wired gopro under there, I can do that. I've done it before to try and isolate problems.

 

[Rock Crawler]

You might try having the truck on the suspension and then loosen and retorque all of the bolts. You might have some binding issues. I’d recommend building some wheel cribs from 2x4s. This works really well for lowered vehicles. Gives you room to get under it with a load on the suspension. I wish I could afford to have a two post and four post lift, but my two post will have to do. It’s times like this that a 4 post would come in real handy.