Bent springs and misaligned rear axle

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ram1500rsm

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I can’t find it on rough countries website maybe it’s just me (I find it on other sites but I’d rather read from the source)
The track bar is the culprit in your situation the control arms are fine. The proper repair would be to change the whole kit out but I doubt you’re interested in spending that and just want to get by with it. The quick and easy fix is an adjustable control arms and pan hard bar to center your axle. (It probably is centered at ride height) I would also get longer sway bar endlinks for the back. Your sway bar is supposed to be parallel not angled up like that
Yeah i think he's got an old kit. The one i saw with the the tubular upper control arm is the RC32932
https://www.americantrucks.com/roug...-suspension-lift-kit-lifted-struts-32932.html

They don't seem to offer rear upper control arms anymore but upper control arms brackets. perhaps cheaper for them to offer
https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/921332000D.pdf

We have a bunch of options on adjustable panhards
upload_2021-1-27_9-9-35.png
 
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Alejandro Strawn

Alejandro Strawn

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There’s a huge storm passing through my area today so I’m not able to get underneath the truck unless I throw a wetsuit on....

Since I’m waiting on Mother Nature to calm down a little, I thought I’d ask what are everyone’s thoughts on what replacement springs I should go with? I want a solid ride day-to-day but be able to carry a load when needed. I’m also thinking of adding airbags for added support when towing.

Thanks, everyone, for your input and suggestions so far... it’s been a very educational experience and I’m greatly appreciative of all your help. ‍
 

ram1500rsm

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BDS or Zone i think will be you best bet. They 3" or 5" springs. The BDS 3" is spring is 15-16% stiffer than stock at 240lbs/inch, at 20.875 free lenght, verified by BDS. Stockers are 18.25"
Their 5" springs will more likely have the same spring rates but 2" longer at 22.875". it takes 480lbs to make them sag 1" so you can do the math with whatever weight you'll be putting back there. I think in your case if you're carrying a trailer the air bag 5000 system will be something you may want to have. I just don't know of what you'll need to get installed in your lifted application assuming it's possible to install them in such application.
Hope it helps.
 
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Alejandro Strawn

Alejandro Strawn

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More pictures of the rear axle. Note the shadow under the driveshaft in the first picture as reference to the ground.

15A80378-35C0-49FA-A0BC-E36B5EECA407.jpeg 95F49036-B95F-4165-B173-02DA1116C7DE.jpeg 61D94103-0F2B-4F29-B747-0AACDAE4A6D1.jpeg 5F237FDE-D6DC-4C65-8379-75DB8B4BC16B.jpeg
 

RedSRT4Me

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Alright... Trackbar added to list with springs, airbags, and sway bar w/links.

I mean let's confirm this though before ordering parts such as if the track bar is removed will the axle reset itself? If not that's where the rear control arms come into place. To fix it right you're going to need to disassemble and inspect.
 

IRSmart

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I mean let's confirm this though before ordering parts such as if the track bar is removed will the axle reset itself? If not that's where the rear control arms come into place. To fix it right you're going to need to disassemble and inspect.
Shh...don’t argue with him, he’s taking the Rough Country garbage off his truck, it’s a win, let him do it lmao
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Just my opinion here that Axle Differential Housings and springs got tweaked by pulling a Toy Hauler with a 6 inch lift over rated its pulling capabilities.
 

Quick_Shifter

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Just my opinion here that Axle Differential Housings and springs got tweaked by pulling a Toy Hauler with a 6 inch lift over rated its pulling capabilities.
That is a possibility the issue wasn’t noticed until OP did his brakes. For all anyone one knows this could have happened anytime
 

Brian2081

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Ok, time for me to throw in my nickles worth.
1, buy new rear springs, get rid of the 6" spacer, much safer for towing.
2, buy adjustable trackbar to center axle from left to right. ( can be used with or without the drop bracket ).
3, buy adjustable upper and lower trailing arms ( there is a know distance between the center of the front drive axle to the center of the rear axle shaft ( which will be those little 1/4" dimples ), this distance needs to kept as close to factory setting as possible. Rear springs need and should be as close to straight up and down as possible. Now you can set pinion angle.
Or you can buy and install 6" trailing arm brackets and use the 2 lower factory arms and 2 upper adjustable arms. ( me I would use all 4 adjustable arms with the bracket ).
4, buy longer sway bar links. I would think 6" lift, you would need links that are 6" longer.
5, for the hell of it buy new and appropriate length shocks.
6, make sure brake line is long enough that at full axle droop it is not stretched tight. Probably 3 or 4" of slack.
7, make sure bump stops are long enough for the lift.
8, if you are unsure how to set up and adjust rear axle, have reputable suspension shop do it and check to make sure drive shaft is proper length for lift.

Again, if this was my truck this is what I would do.
 

Brian2081

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I just went back and looked at the first set of pics you posted. Get rid of that mickey mouse upper brake line mount, replace brake lines with stainless steel braided lines. These will also help keep the feel of the brake pedal firm.
 

VelocityC6Z

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I just had brake lines made from klm, front and rear with 8 additional inches. Just to give a touch extra length. They look very well made, and seem to have came with everything needed for the install
 

Joshua Collins

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So its been touched on a few times but no real look at it i believe. While it does appear to be an older kit with upper arms only replaced that looks like the main issue which has caused a ripple effect for all the other issues seen. OPs rear axle should not be tilted back at ride height what so ever which has caused all the other issues. Doesn't make sense to replace just upper arms and not lower arms assuming thats why they went away from this method(hope the new kit moves/lengthens both arms with the mentioned brackets).

Agreed need to look at replacing the rear arms and panhard as has been suggested and getting a good set of springs as well.
 
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olyelr

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While the trackbar setup may be a bit janky, that is not the cause of the axle being twisted and the springs looking like a slinky.

That supplied upper control arm length must be too long or something. That is horrendous looking lol.
 

boblonben

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I have a 2016 Outdoorsman with a 6” RC spacer lift. I towed my brothers camper last week and, while changing out my breaks, I saw that my springs were bent and my rear axle looks like it’s rotated to the rear too far (see photo).

I’m taking this as an opportunity to swap out the stock springs and RC block with a full-length spring and add airbags to help with towing. I don’t know if the axle is misaligned because of the bent spring or if I should update my LCA/UCAs to adjustable ones to correct the rear axle.

Questions for the forum:
1. What springs should I get so as to be able to forego the RC spacer?

2. Would adjustable LCA/UCAs correct my problem? If adjustable LCAs and/or UCAs would help with my rear axle positioning problem, which ones would you recommend?

3. Since I’m upgrading everything else, I’m looking at new shocks, too. Any suggestions for someone who spends 90% street / 10% off-road?

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 235237
someone messed with this axle and springs. Need to take it back to original set up and you'l be good, with NEW springs thought.
 

Rafael Blanco

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I have a 2014 Tradesman I bought in December. The driver side spring looks like Alejandro's first pic and that makes me wonder if it is a factory defect. My truck is bone stock and I like it that way but I would really like to get that spring straight. Do you guys know of anyone with that same issue that actually fix it replacing that side's arms? I don't really want to start replacing parts just to see if it works.
Thanks
 

Quick_Shifter

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I have a 2014 Tradesman I bought in December. The driver side spring looks like Alejandro's first pic and that makes me wonder if it is a factory defect. My truck is bone stock and I like it that way but I would really like to get that spring straight. Do you guys know of anyone with that same issue that actually fix it replacing that side's arms? I don't really want to start replacing parts just to see if it works.
Thanks
Post a picture
 

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