RAM DRVR
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2017
- Posts
- 529
- Reaction score
- 670
- Location
- Mid left coast - Oregon
- Ram Year
- 2023
- Engine
- CTD
Where did you get that??
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Amazon. Standby for a link. I got the link from another member here. Super easy install and looks like it came from the factoryWhere did you get that??
Which color is that?Welt cord in all 4 doors...
View attachment 212499
Which color is that?
Amazon. Standby for a link. I got the link from another member here. Super easy install and looks like it came from the factory
https://www.amazon.com/JSTOTRIM-Ste...4FQ5ZZ97ZAN&psc=1&refRID=GTCBQ3MK34FQ5ZZ97ZAN
Literally takes 10 seconds. The way that it is molded you can’t mess it up. It falls right into place.
It’s all one piece and The backside Is trimmed in 3m double sided tape. It really is impossible to install wrong. There is no disassembling of the steering wheel necessary. Cleaning the wheel with alcohol took the most timeIt looks pretty damn cool, does it just pop in over your steering wheel or you have to take apart?
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It’s all one piece and The backside Is trimmed in 3m double sided tape. It really is impossible to install wrong. There is no disassembling of the steering wheel necessary. Cleaning the wheel with alcohol took the most time
Have any pics of this mod taken at night?Custom engine bay lights: $10
Super bright, even total illumination for a night time fix. I like this way better than the OEM light as this puts out way more illumination.
Parts:
- LED light strip, 5050 SMD IP67 cool white, 300 LEDs/5m length off of eBay for $4. The Buy It Now price is higher so I went for the bid.
- Ball bearing switch, which is on when the hood is up, off when you close the hood, $4 at a local shop for a 10 pack.
- Harbor Freight 8” black zip ties for $2
Very easy to do. Simply:
1. Pull down the engine bay liner by pulling the retaining clips out
2. Place the LED strip where you want, cut if desired, then wire the strip in series.
3. Cut small slits on both sides of the LED strip, then use those slits to pass the zip tie through and secure. Personal preference: please the female end of the zip tie on the backside of the lining so it is not visible/cleaner look.
4. I couldn’t find the part number for the male plug for the OEM engine bay light, so I spiced into the harness on the passenger side where the OEM plug is. It is a constant power so that is why a ball bearing or mercury switch is needed.
5. Have enough wire to run down the hood support arm to the plug above the firewall, put the lining up and you’re done!
You can chose any color LED you want, but I recommend IP67 rated for and water that it would be exposed to. If you want to go the extra mile, you can get the RGB LED light strips then you can change to any color you want, then have it flash patterns (DO NOT DO ON THE ROAD). There are kits out there in excess of $20 with a hood switch, but only a short length of an LED strip. I like my method for the price so options are out there. Lastly, you can wire this to a switch instead of a ball bearing/mercury switch.
Enjoy your new illumination!
View attachment 210185
Brother, if you were there, then they're not free. You paid for that. Because you did, we're free. My humble thanks to you!
Thank You means more then you knowBrother, if you were there, then they're not free. You paid for that. Because you did, we're free. My humble thanks to you!
Like your mount set up. I made a similar one for my GPS ! IMO a great location and no vibration !I wasn't happy with my vent mounted cell phone mount. I wanted something up high, closer to my line of sight. I had an A-pillar mount in another vehicle but didn't like how it blocked some of the view through the windshield.
I found this:
View attachment 216048
View attachment 216049
View attachment 216050
The mount is a Proclip 213515 and the phone cradle is made by SlipGrip. The mount uses a 4 hole AMPS pattern so I mounted an Akron AMPS to 17mm ball adapter on it. The SlipGrip uses a 17mm socket which is a common size for GPS mounts. It holds my Note 8 perfectly and DOES NOT VIBRATE (that's a pet peeve of mine).
Proclip 213515 - https://www.proclipusa.com/product/213515-proclip-center-mount
Arkon AMPS to 17mm ball adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9BEQDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SlipGrip - https://www.slipgripcarmounts.com/
Also, since I never listen to AM/FM radio and the antenna base was faded horribly and stuck out like a sore thumb, I deleted the antenna. I used @scott_intx's write up: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-antenna-delete.145681/
The antenna plug was about $11.
Have any pics of this mod taken at night?
Links for what you're using?It’s so bright you can barely see the truck outline. I love this over the OEM because if I need to troubleshoot at night, I bring the sun with me! As for longevity, the have worked without issue for over 10k miles so far.
View attachment 216210 View attachment 216211 View attachment 216213
The last pic is using the same LED strips wired through a relay of my approach (puddle) lights.
View attachment 216212
I do a lot of back country exploring and camping in the mountains. When I don’t want to run my 4 LED light bars to illuminate the campsite, these actually are bright enough to light up the area for a conservative power option.
Links for what you're using?
Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
Custom engine bay lights: $10
Super bright, even total illumination for a night time fix. I like this way better than the OEM light as this puts out way more illumination.
Parts:
- LED light strip, 5050 SMD IP67 cool white, 300 LEDs/5m length off of eBay for $4. The Buy It Now price is higher so I went for the bid.
- Ball bearing switch, which is on when the hood is up, off when you close the hood, $4 at a local shop for a 10 pack.
- Harbor Freight 8” black zip ties for $2
Very easy to do. Simply:
1. Pull down the engine bay liner by pulling the retaining clips out
2. Place the LED strip where you want, cut if desired, then wire the strip in series.
3. Cut small slits on both sides of the LED strip, then use those slits to pass the zip tie through and secure. Personal preference: please the female end of the zip tie on the backside of the lining so it is not visible/cleaner look.
4. I couldn’t find the part number for the male plug for the OEM engine bay light, so I spiced into the harness on the passenger side where the OEM plug is. It is a constant power so that is why a ball bearing or mercury switch is needed.
5. Have enough wire to run down the hood support arm to the plug above the firewall, put the lining up and you’re done!
You can chose any color LED you want, but I recommend IP67 rated for and water that it would be exposed to. If you want to go the extra mile, you can get the RGB LED light strips then you can change to any color you want, then have it flash patterns (DO NOT DO ON THE ROAD). There are kits out there in excess of $20 with a hood switch, but only a short length of an LED strip. I like my method for the price so options are out there. Lastly, you can wire this to a switch instead of a ball bearing/mercury switch.
Enjoy your new illumination!