Best single sub box set up

[ramportin1]

I have a 10” kicker in mine. It’s just in a ported truck box, looking to put in a small box under the seat. If you can’t get a 12” to fit very well, I think 10” is plenty for inside a truck cab

i completely agree. i was thinking 12 because i originally planned on sealed box and fox didnt have a 10 sealed. but now i may do the 10 ported as ive always found 10's to sound a hair cleaner... could be a kinda placebo affect idk lol. what kicker do you have? i was eying the kicker compVX also

 

[chrisp2493]

It’s just a Kicker CompC, nothing fancy. Bought it used off Facebook for $50, only running like 125 Watts. I had a 12” Kicker CompR in my old car, never hooked it up in the truck because of the size but it was a good sub. I’ve used almost all Kicker and always have been happy with it.

 

[justin13703]

I have the single 10” ported fox box. It’s a really well built box. The whole thing is coated with a bedliner type coating and it has the ram logo engraved into it. I have 0 complaints about it. I’ve had it for around 3 years. A friend of mine has the sealed 10” fox box and I just don’t think it sounds as good.

I have a 7+ year old type R in it and that thing has the response of a sealed setup with the sound level of a ported one. I have a 500w rms amp running it and that thing can slam if I want it to but still has awesome response and sound quality when it’s turned way back. I’m like you and I used to have the load ass sound systems but now I just want them to be balanced and sound good and I’m 100% happy with that box/sub setup.

 

[ramportin1]

I have the single 10” ported fox box. It’s a really well built box. The whole thing is coated with a bedliner type coating and it has the ram logo engraved into it. I have 0 complaints about it. I’ve had it for around 3 years. A friend of mine has the sealed 10” fox box and I just don’t think it sounds as good.

I have a 7+ year old type R in it and that thing has the response of a sealed setup with the sound level of a ported one. I have a 500w rms amp running it and that thing can slam if I want it to but still has awesome response and sound quality when it’s turned way back. I’m like you and I used to have the load ass sound systems but now I just want them to be balanced and sound good and I’m 100% happy with that box/sub setup.

I don't think I coulda got a more satisfying response, thanks brotha! Ok so type R it is lol that's what I was really leaning towards from the get go, then I'll throw it in the ported fox.

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[ramportin1]

Thanks everyone for your responses!

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[justin13703]

I don't think I coulda got a more satisfying response, thanks brotha! Ok so type R it is lol that's what I was really leaning towards from the get go, then I'll throw it in the ported fox.

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The only problem with the new type r is they upped the power handling of them so much that you need to have a bigger amp/heavier wiring to run them lol. But I think you said that you had an amp to use anyway so that may not be a problem.

The new type r 10’s are 1000w rms. My old one is only 500w rms.

 

[ramportin1]

The only problem with the new type r is they upped the power handling of them so much that you need to have a bigger amp/heavier wiring to run them lol. But I think you said that you had an amp to use anyway so that may not be a problem.

The new type r 10’s are 1000w rms. My old one is only 500w rms.

Yeah I have a 2,000 watt peak (1,000 true) watt amp and also a 1500 watt MTX. Probably end up upgrading batteries now, o God that's how it starts lol next thing you know it's high output alt. With multiple deep cycles [emoji23]

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[justin13703]

Yeah I have a 2,000 watt peak (1,000 true) watt amp and also a 1500 watt MTX. Probably end up upgrading batteries now, o God that's how it starts lol next thing you know it's high output alt. With multiple deep cycles [emoji23]

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I can tell you this much the “smart” charging system used in the 06 and up 3rd gens does not like high power amps lol. So be prepared for that.

 

[ramportin1]

I can tell you this much the “smart” charging system used in the 06 and up 3rd gens does not like high power amps lol. So be prepared for that.

I'm already getting carried away lol ok I gotta re think this. 1,000 watt sub is to damn much power. I'll look into that kicker I was talking about I think they have 500 watt 10's. That way I can run my amp lower and not worry about my truck freaking out

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[alpinewil81]

I'm already getting carried away lol ok I gotta re think this. 1,000 watt sub is to damn much power. I'll look into that kicker I was talking about I think they have 500 watt 10's. That way I can run my amp lower and not worry about my truck freaking out

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Our air space sucks under the rear seats. I run the Kicker DXA500.1 with a pair of 10" Comp R 2ohm DVC wired at 2 ohm load. It took some adjustments with poly fill in the box, it's only about 1.5 c.f. total, but it eventually put out a good clean hard beat. It's no big 12" beat, it's not the deep hit my old Silverado system had, but it definitely sounds good. We do not have an optimal set up for paired subs, a solo has more potential with a vent.

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[justin13703]

I'm already getting carried away lol ok I gotta re think this. 1,000 watt sub is to damn much power. I'll look into that kicker I was talking about I think they have 500 watt 10's. That way I can run my amp lower and not worry about my truck freaking out

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The alpine type s I believe is 500w rms so that may be another choice for you. It’s basically equivalent to my old type r.

 

[Dirtyblackhoe]

I can tell you this much the “smart” charging system used in the 06 and up 3rd gens does not like high power amps lol. So be prepared for that.

Can you please elaborate?

 

[justin13703]

Can you please elaborate?

Basically the alternator output is regulated by the computer, which makes adjustments take a short time. So when you have a big power draw, such as a subwoofer, when the sub hits, the voltage drops. Which makes any lights dim for a split second. The computer sees this, and bumps up the output, which causes an even higher than normal voltage, which causes lights to brighten to more than normal level. By this time, if the draw is gone, the voltage will level back out to normal. The whole process takes less than a second, but if you’re driving at night, with a lot of quick sub hits, it can look like you’re driving a moving strobe light lol.

I haven’t experimented with different/additional batteries or capacitors. Possibly having a much higher power battery or a second battery, or a capacitor, can help prevent that initial voltage drop that sets the whole process in motion, but I’ve never tried it. I just deal with the strobing lights at night. It doesn’t really produce any noticeable effects in the daytime.

 

[ramportin1]

Basically the alternator output is regulated by the computer, which makes adjustments take a short time. So when you have a big power draw, such as a subwoofer, when the sub hits, the voltage drops. Which makes any lights dim for a split second. The computer sees this, and bumps up the output, which causes an even higher than normal voltage, which causes lights to brighten to more than normal level. By this time, if the draw is gone, the voltage will level back out to normal. The whole process takes less than a second, but if you’re driving at night, with a lot of quick sub hits, it can look like you’re driving a moving strobe light lol.

I haven’t experimented with different/additional batteries or capacitors. Possibly having a much higher power battery or a second battery, or a capacitor, can help prevent that initial voltage drop that sets the whole process in motion, but I’ve never tried it. I just deal with the strobing lights at night. It doesn’t really produce any noticeable effects in the daytime.

lol! a rolling rave

 

[Dirtyblackhoe]

Basically the alternator output is regulated by the computer, which makes adjustments take a short time. So when you have a big power draw, such as a subwoofer, when the sub hits, the voltage drops. Which makes any lights dim for a split second. The computer sees this, and bumps up the output, which causes an even higher than normal voltage, which causes lights to brighten to more than normal level. By this time, if the draw is gone, the voltage will level back out to normal. The whole process takes less than a second, but if you’re driving at night, with a lot of quick sub hits, it can look like you’re driving a moving strobe light lol.

I haven’t experimented with different/additional batteries or capacitors. Possibly having a much higher power battery or a second battery, or a capacitor, can help prevent that initial voltage drop that sets the whole process in motion, but I’ve never tried it. I just deal with the strobing lights at night. It doesn’t really produce any noticeable effects in the daytime.

Dude that sucks so bad...I never really thought about it...maybe there is a fix because I can't stand the dimming.

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[justin13703]

lol! a rolling rave

When you put it that way it doesn’t sound so bad lol

 

[justin13703]

Dude that sucks so bad...I never really thought about it...maybe there is a fix because I can't stand the dimming.

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Your profile says you have a 2011, do the 4th gens do it too?

 

[Dirtyblackhoe]

Your profile says you have a 2011, do the 4th gens do it too?

Dude I read 06 and up AND didn't even think about it...I will have to do some research now.

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[justin13703]

Dude I read 06 and up AND didn't even think about it...I will have to do some research now.

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Yeah I put 06 and up 3rd gens because I know they all work the same as far as that charging system. I have no experience with a 4th gen so I can’t say whether they do it or not.

 

[ramportin1]

Just ordered the 10" vented fox box. It's on a little sale at the moment, I think like 15 bucks or something off. I think before I order a sub I'm gunna hook up a Orion I have at home (not my comp orions lol but some other ones I had in my camaro) see what it sounds like in the box

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