Bolt Ons VS Blower

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theviking

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35 rwhp from a tune, and 20-25 rwhp from headers??? I got to see these dyno charts! Also different dynos and elevations fluctuate numbers. The mustang dyno is the most reliable and realistic. If you have dyno photos, please post them.

I don't have a stock dyno for comparison but he's a chart with the mods in my signature. FYI, it was about the worst possible day for a dyno run and I running 34" AT's on stock 20" rims. Basically a 100lb+ wheel and tire combo, so driveline loss is probably pretty significant.

Ram64Dyno_zps41awv0bv.jpg
 

Gary's Hemi

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Whats the deal with the pedal commander? Does it just change the % of throttle input/tip in? The same input that you can change with the trinity also??

Reminds me of a sprint booster back in the day. Everybody raved about it when they came out for the jeep srt8 back in 07...lol

Same thing as the Sprint Booster. Changes the throttle %. It does take alot of lag out the throttle which is what I like about it.
 

theviking

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SRT 6.4 motors I see for sale seem to be the better part of 8k and up. So after you figure in labor and all the usual incidentals the bill would easily run over 10k. Assuming you change the cam while the motor is out then probably add another 1k to the bill (cam, springs, labor). So you are easily at 11k for I would guess is 425-450whp factoring in a typical driveline loss on these trucks.

Compare that to a 7.5k blower which will easily provide around the same HP with a significantly better torque curve. Plus you get that Mad Max blower whine. I know everyone says the pistons won't take it, but in my experience much of that comes down to tuning and ACT's, along with sane boost levels for the fuel used. Obviously the 6 speed trans won't like the blower torque, thought the 8 speed was coping much better.

I don't think you can easily pick a right or wrong answer here, just a matter of preference and money.
 

charonblk07

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Ok, I have been following a lot of bolt on parts for the 5.7 on our rams that are popular.
Pedal commander $300.
Long tubes $1,500.
Cold air intake $300.
Trinity T2 $630.
Unlocked pcm $600.
Moes 87mm TB $380.
Total $3,710.

Pro charger supercharger kit $5,750.

Used 40,000 mile 6.4 hemi $5,000.

So question is...why would you spend all of that money on bolt ons that produce a small amount of power, when you can have a supercharger for another $2,000?

For another $1290. you can have a low mileage 6.4

It's a lot easier to start with the bolt-on mods when people are getting into mods for the first time. When people ask me how to proceed, I always say get your big ticket items first because the sticker shock wears off and lower cost items aren't as painful then, but if you've dropped $5K on mods and then want to add another $7-8K for a supercharger on top of that it tends to stop most people but if you drop that $7-8K first then you can pick away at the other stuff over time. Of course, not everyone can afford to drop $8K all at once, so the bolt-on list is their reality and the they can spring for a nitrous kit for a lot less money.

For your procharger kit you have left out some very important information; that is the base price for the kit and doesn't include the required handheld programmer and PCM which tacks on another $1400 if you get it as part of the complete HO procharger kit. This also doesn't include any other upgrades like a D-1SC of D1X upgrade. When I price out a black D1X kit it's $8600 to bolt it onto a bone stock truck.

There's also something to be said for the reliability of a 'simple bolt-on' truck, adding boost brings a different set of potential issues. All these prices assume just purchase price for parts and don't include installation and that the vehicle owner doesn't care about warranty.

When people contact me about builds I push them to be realistic with their goals, set a realistic budget, and find out what their end game is for the truck. You'd be amazed at how little people realize the cost creeps up when you start factoring in the required supporting mods, it's never JUST about the major parts cost.
 
OP
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2010 Infantry Vet

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I was looking at dyno charts feom guys with cold air intakes and tuners last night. Charts i saw said stock ram 5.7 makes 285-300 rwhp, tuner, cold air intake, and cat ba k exhaust only gave an additional 10 RWHP. That sounds more logical
 

chrisp2493

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I was looking at dyno charts feom guys with cold air intakes and tuners last night. Charts i saw said stock ram 5.7 makes 285-300 rwhp, tuner, cold air intake, and cat ba k exhaust only gave an additional 10 RWHP. That sounds more logical

A simple muffler swap isn’t going to add much power, same as an intake. But a custom tune is pretty close to 25 hp, and longtubes are always considered an easy 25-30 hp. Don’t get too caught up in just the peak hp gain, it’s the gains across the board that are important too. The comp 260 cam I had before had an advertised gain of 30 hp/20 tq but that was just the peak to peak gain. If you see a dyno chart is was gaining close to 50 hp in the lower rpm ranges
 

charonblk07

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I was looking at dyno charts feom guys with cold air intakes and tuners last night. Charts i saw said stock ram 5.7 makes 285-300 rwhp, tuner, cold air intake, and cat ba k exhaust only gave an additional 10 RWHP. That sounds more logical

Were they 8-speed trucks? Most baseline dynos I've seen for 8-speed trucks are between 320-340
 

boomstick

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my 6.4 from modern muscle with they'er nsr cam instaled was 8100 plus a few other things tuning ,fluids etc was about 9000 after it was complete ive seen dyno numbers with that same set up in a car shoe 461 to the wheels. ive seen full bolt on 5.7 trucks with a procharger go 478 to the wheels . dyno's read different so they just give you an idea plus the 8 speed shows more than the 6 speed tire hieght can show different too.

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Wild one

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My 14 with 295/45/20's / 8sp / 3.21 gears / JBA 1.75 headers and midpipe / ( home ported/polished/knife edged /throttle shaft thinned ) stock original throttle body / Magnaflow catback with 22" muffler / clutch fan delete / 180 T-stat / Moroso catch can / custom HP dyno tune made 355hp and 376 lb-ft to the tires ,with a Zex 75 shot of nitrous it made 435 hp and 455 lb-ft at 3000ft on a Mustang dyno.

My buddy with a modded custom Diablo dyno tuned 6.4 2013 Superbee has put down 510 hp and 490 lb-ft on a different Dyno-jet dyno,and my truck consistently outruns his Bee by a full tenth at the local track.Truck weighes a good 600lbs more then his Bee. Dyno numbers can't be compared,all a dyno is ,is a tuning tool. Guys who believe dyno's are the gospel truth should realize they're only another tool in a tuners arsenal of tuning tools,nothing more/nothing less.Besides I've never yet seen 2 dynos race at the dragstrip,when you find a couple racing,make sure you get a video,for us,lol.
 
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mondo

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Same thing as the Sprint Booster. Changes the throttle %. It does take alot of lag out the throttle which is what I like about it.
With the Trinity, you can change the % correct? Or isnt that option available for the Ram?
 

Gary's Hemi

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With the Trinity, you can change the % correct? Or isnt that option available for the Ram?

Yes. The Trinity, I2 & I3 goes up to 20%. The PC has much more adjustment. Wont give you anymore hp or make you anymore faster. Just fun for the throttle response side of it.
 
OP
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2010 Infantry Vet

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my 6.4 from modern muscle with they'er nsr cam instaled was 8100 plus a few other things tuning ,fluids etc was about 9000 after it was complete ive seen dyno numbers with that same set up in a car shoe 461 to the wheels. ive seen full bolt on 5.7 trucks with a procharger go 478 to the wheels . dyno's read different so they just give you an idea plus the 8 speed shows more than the 6 speed tire hieght can show different too.

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Mustang dynos have proven to be the most accurate. As long as correction factors are used properly, and elevation adjustments are used, mustang dynos are very accurate.
 
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