Brake controller connector?

[Chris1911]

Got a Tekonsha P3 brake controller to try out, because the oem controller sucks. The instructions and videos i have seen say that the harness i plug into is under the dash, to the right of the steering column, and taped to another harness. I cannot find the thing. Has something changed with the 2018s?

If i have an oem controller, is it using that plug?

 

[Express SN95]

If you have a factory controller, the plugs youre looking for are already plugged in to the black box above and to the right of the accelerator.


Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

 

[aladin_sane]

Got a Tekonsha P3 brake controller to try out, because the oem controller sucks. The instructions and videos i have seen say that the harness i plug into is under the dash, to the right of the steering column, and taped to another harness. I cannot find the thing. Has something changed with the 2018s?

If i have an oem controller, is it using that plug?

So, I sold my P3 with my superduty when I bought my big horn. I have yet to pull a trailer with my new truck. In what way does the oem controller suck?

 

[Chris1911]

If you have a factory controller, the plugs youre looking for are already plugged in to the black box above and to the right of the accelerator.


Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

Yeah, i returned to say i found it. Thanks though.

None of the instructions and videos mentioned disconnecting if you have the factory controller.

 

[Chris1911]

So, I sold my P3 with my superduty when I bought my big horn. I have yet to pull a trailer with my new truck. In what way does the oem controller suck?

If you google it, you can find lots of complaints about it.

The controller on my 2016 1500 was just barely ok, with the gain up to 8 or above. I used it while i had it. My new 2018 2500 is worse. When i squeeze the manual levers, i don't feel it doing much at all. Only get 7 volts to the brakes with max gain. Not sure why it feels so much weaker than the 1500 (same trailer).

If you go through the thread that i linked below, there is a guy that found out that Ram programs it to only put out 70% of its power at low speeds, which may not be enough for heavier trailers to work properly. Makes it impossible to adjust your brakes the way you are supposed to and also makes emergency stops at lower speeds dangerous.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...-controller-aftermarket-brake-controller.html

 

[aladin_sane]

Thanks for the feedback. It won't be long now before I give mine a try. Thankfully, my trailer isn't all that heavy, and that's why I don't have another super duty.

 

[silver surfer]

I tow a 25' trailer with OEM controller. Never had any problems.

 

[Mean Gene]

My OEM brake controller is horrible as well. Unless I set it to 10 it won't work at all. At 10 it's adequate, but certainly not good.

 

[sekaw]

keep getting service trailer brakes on oem controller has never worked programmed by dealer tried putting a tekonsa controller in and it won't work either checked factory 4 prong plug no power on any wires eccept when pushing brake pedal all fuses look good

 

[crash68]

keep getting service trailer brakes on oem controller has never worked programmed by dealer tried putting a tekonsa controller in and it won't work either checked factory 4 prong plug no power on any wires eccept when pushing brake pedal all fuses look good

These are all the fuses(size and type) for the Trailer Tow lights and brakes on your 16:
F53 ATR 20 amp Left Trailer lights
F81 ATR 20 amp Right Trailer lights
F29 FFM 20 amp Trailer Park lights
F28 FFM 20 amp Trailer Back up lights
F30 FFM 30 amp Direct from battery
F11 J Case 30 amp Brake Lever
F87 ATR 10 amp ITBM module
It's the F11 one that feeds the factory or aftermarket brake controller the 12V for the brakes.
The F87 is for the power just for the ITBM.
Does this message pops up when you connect a trailer? Do you have another trailer(friends or neighbor) you could try? or have someone else plug into yours?

 

[sekaw]

no the message pops up after cranking first thing no trailer connected and periodically I installed the oem brake controller and then took it to my dealer for programming they said I would have to go and get trailer to trouble shoot seems to me you could trouble shoot without trailer they charged me 158.00 just to program .Iam not going to pay them 158.00per hr to trouble shoot.I can't believe it took a full hr to program I believe the tech could have used the rest of that hr to trouble shoot last time I will go to that dealer. took me about 5 min to find out had no power at 4 prong connector. thanks for the fuse #s I looked at fuse box cover and found 28.29,and 30 didn't see the others

 

[Damion]

The 4 prong connector does not have trailer brake abilities. The large 7 pin ( round one ) does. The flat 4 is for light duty trailers with no brakes.

 

[Shiva]

I tow a 25' trailer with OEM controller. Never had any problems.

Same here. Kinda like it. Have my P3 sitting in the shop.

 

[crash68]

The 4 prong connector does not have trailer brake abilities. The large 7 pin ( round one ) does. The flat 4 is for light duty trailers with no brakes.

He was referring to the 4 pin connector under the dash that plugs into the ITBM or aftermarket brake controller (with adapter).

 

[sekaw]

Thanks I'll check the other fuses

 

[stevenP]

Well I tow a 15000lb fifth wheel with my 3500. On another fifth wheel which was only 12K pounds in weight. Had ....the stock IBC was working o.k, but not great though. I now have this newer bigger RV, with 8K axles(much bigger brakes) the brake controller is at 10, on heavy electric and the braking while coasting isnt hardly noticeable. The most I could measure out at the back of the truck on the extra 7 pin connector was 7.5Vdc with everything maxed out.
Just installed the tekonsha P3 controller, by passing the stock IBC.... found both of the under dash connections that were needed for the P3 and its adapter wiring harness. So far a world of difference in braking. Took about 25 minutes to do the install.

There are several articles on the NTSB site pertaining to the RAM IBC being kinda finicky as to what it likes to be hooked up to and work properly, especially after the 2014 model year.