Cabin Heater core clogged - Loss of heat

[JW2 Innovations]

Well, at some of the coldest days in my area the heat in my truck stopped working with about 3hrs left to get home. Several other posts you can read, but back flushing the heater core a couple of times did the trick. I bought 10ft of clear hose and some fitting along with hose clamps and went at it. TBH, using just the water from the hose did make it a little better, but it wasn't until the second time a few days later with an air assisted water gun did I get back to normal heat in the cab. I noticed several plastic variations of this same tool, but this one is pretty solid so wanted to share, as well as being cheaper than the recommended OTC plastic one out there for $30 more.

It's a:

Lisle 60800 Heater Core Backflush Tool with Air
Link​

 

[mtnrider]

That is the best method to flush the core, keep it handy you will need it again. I usually have to do it a couple times each winter. I recently put a filter inline to help

 

[JW2 Innovations]

That is the best method to flush the core, keep it handy you will need it again. I usually have to do it a couple times each winter. I recently put a filter inline to help

Agree. I've done the back flush before on previous vehicles and wish I had this tool then.

I've also been looking into a coolant filter. Which one did you go with?

 

[mtnrider]

I did the VE Labs coolant filter. I like that I can see when it is getting full I can clean it. It started catching debris right away. Seems no matter how well I flush the system crap eventually starts coming out again. I almost wondering if it isn't my EGR cooler degrading inside?

 

[JW2 Innovations]

Thanks for sharing this. I saw those, so if you're using they must work. That connection you were able to tie into coming from the block has had some leaking on others from what I've read - and starting to see myself, so I'm getting parts to replace it and not buy the $100 Mishimoto kit to go all metal.

I'm going the below route so I can tie in a coolant filter to it later:

10an x 1/2npt (screws into block replacing OEM) LINK
10an tee (10an female on bottom, 2x 10an male making top of T) LINK
10an cap (for one end for future tap in) LINK
10an x 5/8 straight barb (to go to heater core via hose) LINK

Where to mount has been a challenge so far.