Camshaft failure 2017 Hemi?

[Crosby231]

Loud knocking with a P0300 code showing. After I changed the plugs and the coils for two cylinders I haven’t seen the code again but it’s not been driven much due to the knocking. So….. does this sound like a camshaft / lifter failure? I am a complete ******* when it comes to engines. I know absolutely nothing about them. I have a video but I’m unsure how to attach it. Only have the option to attach pictures.

 

[BadHemi2014]

You can upload a video to you tube then link to it here.

 

[Crosby231]

It’s pretty loud. I don’t have a YouTube account but I replaced the plugs and coils in the misfiring cylinders yesterday and they are back. It’s knocking like hell and can’t clear these codes

 

[Jeepwalker]

Can you isolate which side it's coming from? Remove that valve cover. If you don't know anything about engines, probably best to take it to some shop and have them remove the valve covers and check rocker arm movement. Or you could do it yourself. There's no shortage of Hemi Cam Failure videos. Watch a few and they show you how to check. Shouldn't cost much to have it 'checked' out.

That's going to be a bummer if it is. Sorry to hear it. How many miles?

 

[CanuckRam1313]

One of the best in the business right here!
https://frptuning.com/en-ca
Pick your kit and have a great experience.

They have complete kits that don't require tunes or upgraded TQ converters.
Or, go more aggressive and get a HP Tuners set up, and then an upgraded stall TQ converter as well.

If you're going to upgrade and not worry again about stock parts failing; FRP is something to check out.

Also, as I was recently educated by those on here smarter than I, do stick with the OEM lifters, and perhaps go with solid lifters vs hydraulic lifters, especially if going the MDS delete route.

My $0.02.

 

[Wild one]

One of the best in the business right here!
https://frptuning.com/en-ca
Pick your kit and have a great experience.

They have complete kits that don't require tunes or upgraded TQ converters.
Or, go more aggressive and get a HP Tuners set up, and then an upgraded stall TQ converter as well.

If you're going to upgrade and not worry again about stock parts failing; FRP is something to check out.

Also, as I was recently educated by those on here smarter than I, do stick with the OEM lifters, and perhaps go with solid lifters vs hydraulic lifters, especially if going the MDS delete route.

My $0.02.

You don't want "solid" lifters on a late model hemi with the stock rocker arms,they're non adjustable,and you need to adjust the lash with a solid lifter.I think you meant non-MDS lifters,but they're still a hydraulic lifter

 

[CanuckRam1313]

You don't want "solid" lifters on a late model hemi with the stock rocker arms,they're non adjustable,and you need to adjust the lash with a solid lifter.I think you meant non-MDS lifters,but they're still a hydraulic lifter

I did, and thank you for the clarification, too!

Always a great support system here to help everyone!

 

[Crosby231]

Can you isolate which side it's coming from? Remove that valve cover. If you don't know anything about engines, probably best to take it to some shop and have them remove the valve covers and check rocker arm movement. Or you could do it yourself. There's no shortage of Hemi Cam Failure videos. Watch a few and they show you how to check. Shouldn't cost much to have it 'checked' out.

That's going to be a bummer if it is. Sorry to hear it. How many miles?

160k. I got a lot of good use out of it but I’m in no position to buy a new motor or a new truck. Luckily I have a back up car as I like to keep 2 at all times. Crappy part is that back up is my midlife crisis purchase M6. Don’t exactly want to put a lot of miles on that monster.

 

[Jeepwalker]

First zero in that that's the problem. ...There's always a cheaper way to do things. Buddy do the work ....Used engine, etc

 

[jws123]

Cant really help you unelss you upload a vid of it running could be something simple.

 

[Crosby231]

Cant really help you unelss you upload a vid of it running could be something simple.

I just got word from the shop. It’s the cam and lifters. 3500 to replace. Do y’all recommend OEM or are there better quality aftermarket?

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I just got word from the shop. It’s the cam and lifters. 3500 to replace. Do y’all recommend OEM or are there better quality aftermarket?

Better quality aftermarket if you're going to keep your rig!
You have the FRP info...go that route of you're keeping her...IMHO.

Spend a tad extra and get the benefit of high quality, tried, tested, and true results.

My $0.02

 

[Crosby231]

Better quality aftermarket if you're going to keep your rig!
You have the FRP info...go that route of you're keeping her...IMHO.

Spend a tad extra and get the benefit of high quality, tried, tested, and true results.

My $0.02

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking too. Do you recommend any of the aftermarket providers?

 

[Jeepwalker]

Sorry to hear that.

Does the dealer give any kind of warranty on the work? 60 days, 90 days? That would be one reason to go with the Mopar stuff. I thought I read they improved the lifter rollers (larger bearings)?? If those two are the case, I'd consider going Mopar. Having a dealer warranty their work, could be a big deal.

Worth asking the questions.

 

[Crosby231]

Sorry to hear that.

Does the dealer give any kind of warranty on the work? 60 days, 90 days? That would be one reason to go with the Mopar stuff. I thought I read they improved the lifter rollers (larger bearings)?? If those two are the case, I'd consider going Mopar. Having a dealer warranty their work, could be a big deal.

Worth asking the questions.

Good point that I hadn’t thought of. Thank you

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking too. Do you recommend any of the aftermarket providers?

Yes, post #5 has the link to FRP.
Call them up and discuss your needs, and let them know you need a full kit with a cam that doesn't require tuning for and using the stock tq converter.
They'll set you up right.

 

[Burla]

3500 is a good deal, metallurgies have been done on oem lifters and cams, that is not the issue with hemi tick and failures. Even not having mds lifters is not the issue here. It is beneficial to have post 2016- lifters and opposed to pre 2016 lifters as they beefed up the roller bearings. Once it is back together, look up lubrication strategies in my sig, that is the issue here. Perhaps a two headed monster, poor oil quality as in lack of additives, and lack of oiling. You can fix one of those the other is structural, most of the time using a hearty strategy will work backed with absent of hemi tick and verified with uoa's, too many to count. Bottom line since the cam lasted 2017 til today, the poor oil system is likely putting "decent" oil on the cam, so in theory beefing up the oil will help you like it has done for 100's of us. 5w30 should be the minimum weight you use here on in, 0w30 in cold states. Dont over look filtration either, see sig.

 

[Burla]

Not saying using aftermarket lifters would be a bad thing, I have no info on that. We know using an aftermarket cam can be a great upgrade, just in performance alone.

 

[Sherman Bird]

First zero in that that's the problem. ...There's always a cheaper way to do things. Buddy do the work ....Used engine, etc

I've had several customers requesting quotes for HEMI engine replacement. The prices I've been quoted as my cost for used, high mileage engines are other-worldly exorbitant, IMHO. At those rates, I counsel my customers to replace their engines with reman unit or repair the existing engine. There doesn't appear to be any very budget-friendly ways to address these problems.

 

[Crosby231]

3500 is a good deal, metallurgies have been done on oem lifters and cams, that is not the issue with hemi tick and failures. Even not having mds lifters is not the issue here. It is beneficial to have post 2016- lifters and opposed to pre 2016 lifters as they beefed up the roller bearings. Once it is back together, look up lubrication strategies in my sig, that is the issue here. Perhaps a two headed monster, poor oil quality as in lack of additives, and lack of oiling. You can fix one of those the other is structural, most of the time using a hearty strategy will work backed with absent of hemi tick and verified with uoa's, too many to count. Bottom line since the cam lasted 2017 til today, the poor oil system is likely putting "decent" oil on the cam, so in theory beefing up the oil will help you like it has done for 100's of us. 5w30 should be the minimum weight you use here on in, 0w30 in cold states. Dont over look filtration either, see sig.

Yeah you are right. Unfortunately I always went with what the documentation stated. No longer.