Can someone help me figure out why in the hell this would happen?

[indept]

Ok boomers how many of you have ever used a cross tire iron no torque control on those. Or the lame little thing you get from the manufacturer. I use a breaker bar because I am not as young as I used to be. The guy s are right a cheap torque wrench is a good thing to carry in your truck. And different sizes of sockets too you never know what you might need. Jacks recovery gear etc

Last time I used either of those was back in the '70s when 99% of wheels were steel. And in shops we used our impact guns to tighten them, never a torque wrench back then.

 

[4xdad]

And solid steel lugs could take the strain of a good torque. The lame stock ones with the thin crome cover gotta go.

 

[jejb]

A 'breaker Bar' is NOT the same as a "Torque wrench"

It is when removing the lugs, not when Tightening.

Not really. Most (all?) torque wrenches say not to use them to loosen fasteners.

 

[jejb]

Ok boomers how many of you have ever used a cross tire iron no torque control on those. Or the lame little thing you get from the manufacturer.

Sure, side of the road emergency repair, you do your best. Then check it back home once you have time to do it right.

 

[1 MEAN66]

The Harbor freight ones, that I have, will click in both directions of rotation. After you tighten with any other tool, just put it on and gradually raise the setting, while turning in the loosening direction (some older Mopars turn left or right to remove) when it no longer clicks and actually turns the nut, that is what it was torqued to. It is not recommended to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, it will affect the accuracy of the tool.

 

[BigWhiteSnake]

If it happened over Haloween, that explains a lot. There were reports of gobblins coming to life for the night and going around and reeking havoc on people's wheels. LOL.

Seriously, while I generally trust Napa's products, I see they list two replacement hubs. The "best" hub is priced at $327 (list) "Manufactured by: Dorman" ...and that right there would keep me from buying it. I doubt Dorman 'makes' it. It's probably one they import. It could be good, like AAM..or another OEM quality mfgr. Be nice to know?? What's with all the secrecy NAPA???!. Then they have an 'economy line' which is $215. I'd bet is an asian import.

Why not buy Genuine Mopar for $201 (plus shipping) ...about the price of Napa's 'economy line'?? Your last one lasted almost 100k mi. I've bought import hubs which were good, but a lot were awful and one the flange was pre-warped. I would stick to SKF, Moog -Their better line, SK, etc. But Mopar would be my first choice at the going price.

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Note, you could also press out the studs and put in new if the hubs were still good and you have access to a press. There's a small chance they might pound out easy too. If you can wedge a small section of pipe behind the stud to pound directly to the knuckle. Or you know a shop which has a hydraulic stud removal/install tool, which most aren't going to have. But some might. Maybe the dealer would???

These are SKF, Napa called me back and is helping me file a claim.