Charonblk07's JL Audio build

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charonblk07

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Getting started on my audio build this week. The equipment list is as follows:

Processing:
JBL MS-8

Amps:
2x JL HD 900/5
1x JL HD 600/4

Speakers
2x JL w6v3 woofers - passive crossover via 900/5 amp from bridged rear input from MS-8
1x JL ZR800 midbass in front door pods - active crossover vis the MS-8
1x JL ZR525 component in front door pods - active crossover via the MS-8
1x C5 625 component in rear door - passive crossover via the MS-8

The ZR800s will be bridged from the front channel of the 900/5s, the C5 650s will be bridged from the rear channels of the 900/5s, and the W6v3s will be on the sub output with input from a split channel from the ZR800s which will receive a 20hz-400Hz signal from the MS-8 and the 900/5 will use its built in crossovers to split the signal. The ZR525s will run active crossover through the MS-8 and powered by the 600/4 so each component will be getting 150W, should be pretty sweet.

I had originally planned a rear wall build but I couldn't get the HD amps and the MS-8 all onto the back wall without them preventing the seat from even bolting into place...so I modified slightly. The MS-8 will be on the back wall along with all the wiring plus a few other electronic devices used in the vehicle that can now be out of sight like my RGB LED controller so I don't have to find a hiding spot for it anymore.

Here was the original idea, with only 2 of the amps installed:
IMG_0213_zpsae4f7093.jpg

Made some changes to the layout and it's now the 3 HD amps on the floor angled so I can now play with the crossovers and filters as required without having to pull the seats like I would have had to before.

IMG_0214_zps85fd64ed.jpg

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Now that the test fits are done I'll be starting the fiberglass work to smooth everything out and make it look presentable. That will happen tomorrow.

Started making a place for the MS-8's remote display. I'd already smoothed out the area under the center stack so I just trimmed out a hole big enough for the display and then began fiberglassing the remote into place.

IMG_0221_zps8ceedb29.jpg

IMG_0222_zps3addb726.jpg

That's it for tonight. Tomorrow will be continuing on the center stack that I'm also fabricating in a few gauge pods as well as potentially getting going on the door pods while the truck's in for some exhaust work.
 

Etroze86

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Thats pretty nice. I have a thought about the MS-8 and your ZR800's, it might not cross them as low as you would like, but my understanding of the MS-8 is it picks the frequencies and you can boost those with the eq function and that is about it. It also might cross low enough into the sub frequencies that you could get some cancellation from one or the other.
Work looks pretty damn good btw, I need to try glassing more.
 

BradKnob

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With the ms-8, the user chooses the frequencies for each channel. It looks like hes going to send sub and midbass frequencies through one channel and let the amp split those frequencies to the subs and the 800s.


Also, that sub box...Something you built already or a prefab?
 
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Etroze86

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Ok wasn't exactly positive on the cutoffs with it and I was reading to fast thanks for clearing that up. You guys make me want to get one for my wifes car.
 

WhiteExpress

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Man... I positively love it. I love the idea of active crossing.
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Work looks pretty damn good btw, I need to try glassing more.

I don't work with it nearly enough to be 'good' at it, but I'm a lot better than I used to be. My first attempt at audio 'glassing on my last truck was an unmitigated disaster, actually had to throw the entire door panel out and buy new ones.

With the ms-8, the user chooses the frequencies for each channel. It looks like hes going to send sub and midbass frequencies through one channel and let the amp split those frequencies to the subs and the 800s.


Also, that sub box...Something you built already or a prefab?

Correct, going to try that first, but if I can't get what I'm looking for then I'll just cut out the rear fill and run the subs directly off the MS-8 input and defeat the amps' filtering but from enough of the threads on DIYMA I feel confident that I can get the amp to control the subs the way I want, and I'll probably disconnect them when I do the tuning so the MS-8 doesn't try to attenuate any of the low low frequencies.

It's a Net Audio box, and as much as I'd love to build a box to top yours :roflsquared: I honestly couldn't build one as nice as this thing, and while most people scoff at the price it's a VERY solid piece and I don't have a cab that smells like fiberglass for 4 months. I have to all my work in a condo parking lot so I can't leave windows open to off gas overnight in a garage while it cures and that smell gets into everything!

This is the build plans so far, but watch out if my wife gets the SUV we've been talking about; then the rear space in the truck isn't as important anymore and the truck might get a fully glassed center console right to the back wall and the seats go bye-bye. I've always wanted to do one of those.
 

BradKnob

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Correct, going to try that first, but if I can't get what I'm looking for then I'll just cut out the rear fill and run the subs directly off the MS-8 input and defeat the amps' filtering but from enough of the threads on DIYMA I feel confident that I can get the amp to control the subs the way I want, and I'll probably disconnect them when I do the tuning so the MS-8 doesn't try to attenuate any of the low low frequencies.

I think letting the amp split the signal would actually work out better. One of the main problems I run into is lacking mid and sub bass. I make sure to leave plenty of head room during calibration so after I can crank the midbass gains back up afterwards


Another thing I just realized yesterday about the ms-8 that kinda blew my mind. For the 31 band EQ, U actually make it look like how you want your frequency response to end up and the ms-8 creates that response. No RTA necessary. I just made my EQ look like the JBL target frequency response and it def opened up my stage a little bit. Mainly the depth.

It's a Net Audio box, and as much as I'd love to build a box to top yours :roflsquared: I honestly couldn't build one as nice as this thing, and while most people scoff at the price it's a VERY solid piece and I don't have a cab that smells like fiberglass for 4 months. I have to all my work in a condo parking lot so I can't leave windows open to off gas overnight in a garage while it cures and that smell gets into everything!

Please don't do that! I don't want to have to feel insecure and build myself another one. lol

I actually enjoy the buzz I get on the way to work from the fiberglass. Really gets me going in the morning



This is the build plans so far, but watch out if my wife gets the SUV we've been talking about; then the rear space in the truck isn't as important anymore and the truck might get a fully glassed center console right to the back wall and the seats go bye-bye. I've always wanted to do one of those.

Space is overrated! 4-12's in a full length console console and rear bucket seats. FTW
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Cut the door panels apart today... there's no going back now. Since I know I'll need the room behind the door panel to fit the 8s and 5.25s I've gone ahead and trimmed out the stock speaker pod as well

IMG_0224_zps47d3158b.jpg

IMG_0225_zps5708d00a.jpg

Been working on the center stack for the gauge pods mostly today, lower pod is complete and the upper is wrapped and going to be glassed tomorrow.

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Got the JBL remote squared away.

IMG_0231_zps063f37e7.jpg

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WhiteExpress

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Are you going to narrow the dash opening for the deck, so it doesn't have that wonky 1/2" adapter on either side? (Or are you running a stock deck?)

The work looks very nice, those upper 2 gauges sure stick out... yikes!
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Yes, I'll be narrowing the dash to get rid of the gaps on either side this way I can run any 2-din head unit I want to in the future but I'm not doing it yet because I'm still deciding if I'll be using my old Pioneer deck or if I will go with a 730n or not.

Continued on the door pods today. I now have both door skins trimmed down and the door panels all ready.

Inner door pod mounting plates.
IMG_0235_zps94b01837.jpg

Main door pod
IMG_0237_zps557c68e1.jpg

Potential mounting locations of the 8s and 5.25s.
IMG_0238_zpsa4d417b9.jpg
 
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BradKnob

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Holy crap...


I wanna chop up my door panels now. Lol. This gonna be sick. Can't wait to see it finished.
 

WhiteExpress

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Is there enough room in the door for an 8" there?

It also seems like with the door closed, the 8 would be barking into the side of the seat.
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Is there enough room in the door for an 8" there?

It also seems like with the door closed, the 8 would be barking into the side of the seat.


There's the same space in that location as the factory location and I have 1.5" to go further back before the seat would become an issue. The speakers are also going to be reverse mounted and trim ringed so there's no chance of the seat or people hitting them.

At the same time, that's where I'm planning to put them for now, everything's fluid with these builds as we all know.


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BlkRamRt

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This is going to come out Sick.
 

WhiteExpress

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There's the same space in that location as the factory location and I have 1.5" to go further back before the seat would become an issue. The speakers are also going to be reverse mounted and trim ringed so there's no chance of the seat or people hitting them.

At the same time, that's where I'm planning to put them for now, everything's fluid with these builds as we all know.
Killer! I've just trying to visualize it all, just asking questions, not meaning to be critical. I apologize if that's how I came across.
 
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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Killer! I've just trying to visualize it all, just asking questions, not meaning to be critical. I apologize if that's how I came across.


Didn't come across that way at all, I was just answering the questions you asked and there's nothing wrong with asking questions. It's not like you said I'm an idiot for doing this.

I'll get some pics later today if I have time showing the door/seat clearance.


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charonblk07

charonblk07

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I have been working on this, I swear I have, but progress has just been very slow. I finished up all my templates so now progress can speed up in a big way... except now I have to go back to work for 2 weeks so I only have a day left to work on it and the wifey's getting annoyed I've spent so much time on the truck these days off. *Sigh* I can't win.

I now have the inner door mounting panels in place, bolt heads are counter sunk and are using the factory inner door skin bolt locations so they are 100% secure to the door itself.

IMG_0241_zpsfd414920.jpg


The main door panels will be mounted using standard threaded insert hardware from the local carpentry store so it will all mount up nice a tight. Here's the final look before I do the final mounting and trimming out for the speaker locations.

IMG_0245_zps07c36a9e.jpg


Here's the clearances I was talking about between the speaker mounting box and the seat. It's close to the e-brake pedal but doesn't interfere, the only interference is between the e-brake release handle and the top of the box, so I'll just have to open the door to disengage the e-brake, which is fine since I use it so rarely.

IMG_0242_zps50a206e0.jpg


IMG_0243_zpsd2eb01d6.jpg


IMG_0244_zps037c11c4.jpg
 
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