Cool this baby down!

[ramffml]

Absolutely install a 180 tstat. It doesn't prevent any lower peak temps, but you have a longer runway before hitting those temps. And as soon as you get over the grade and hit the straights again your temps will cool down further again, giving you that longer runway for the next hill.

Think about it logically; if you're always towing on the straights at 50F (just humour me), you have much longer time before hitting 250F on a grade, than if you are always towing on the straights at 200F. Right? Lower tstat = lower coolant = lower oil. Give yourself another 20 degrees of buffer, it does help!

If you have AGS, rip out all but 2 rows of slats. Just put your hand in and pull them out.

These 2 changes were enough for me, but you can also install an oil cooler with a thermostat, but I'd do that only if needed since it's yet more parts and stuff that can fail.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Easy fix Get a new 180 high flow T-Stat and Tune your truck to have the fans kick in sooner. Problem solved.

 

[Wild one]

Changing to a lower-rated T-stat is poor advice. It introduces new parameters unrelated to the problem, and other engine sensors and systems will not be operating at design specs.
In other words…. Modifying the design….is not a proper repair despite that it may mask the defect.

Hope this helps.

If you buy the Mopar performance kits,the first step in the kits was swapping to a 180 thermostat.
Even Ma Mopar knows the benefit of dropping the coolant temp

 

[gcrook57]

Hey Frank I had the same problem with my 2021 Warlock. I put a 192 thermostat and hd clutch fan (which howls like crazy when cold) and that has helped. Also changed and flushed cooling system and washed the radiator externally the best I could. I still see 225 up Horseshoe Bend hill in the summer temps but I thinks that is safe. Greg in Idaho

 

[Wild one]

With dual remote oil filters/clean as a whistle rad/majority of shutters removed/180 thermostat,i can run up to highwood pass which is a 7.1% grade,with some sections approaching 12%,and 7200ft elevation,as fast as i want and never exceed 200 degrees coolant temp and might touch 210 degrees oil temp if i'm really pushing it.That was in my little regular cab shortbox with the 8 speed and 3.55 gears in 6th gear,using 5W-30 Redline and big ole dual 30-8A Royal Purple filters.
I'd be more worried about your oil temps and keeping them under control,then coolant temps.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

With dual remote oil filters/clean as a whistle rad/majority of shutters removed/180 thermostat,i can run up to highwood pass which is a 7.1% grade,with some sections approaching 12%,and 7200ft elevation,as fast as i want and never exceed 200 degrees coolant temp and might touch 210 degrees oil temp if i'm really pushing it.That was in my little regular cab shortbox with the 8 speed and 3.55 gears in 6th gear,using 5W-30 Redline and big ole dual 30-8A Royal Purple filters.
I'd be more worried about your oil temps and keeping them under control,then coolant temps.

What is a safe range for oil temperature? And when should we get concerned? My ZR1 didn’t have a number to go with, just C to the left and H to the right

 

[Wild one]

What is a safe range for oil temperature? And when should we get concerned? My ZR1 didn’t have a number to go with, just C to the left and H to the right

I'd start slowing down once they get close to 235 and if they get above 240,i'd be looking for a place to pull over and let it cool down.The Hemi has a $h!tty oiling system as it is,and i'm not a firm believer in thinning the oil out with high oil temperatures and compounding it's lack luster oiling issues

 

[EdGs]

@Wild one: Hey Rick, what is your oil capacity after adding the dual filter setup?

 

[Wild one]

@Wild one: Hey Rick, what is your oil capacity after adding the dual filter setup?

Right around 9 quarts puts it just a hair over full on the dipstick Ed. It's probably between a 1/4 and 1/2 quart over full with 9 quarts . My ass used to pucker doing an oil change on it,with 2 Royal Purple filters and 9 quarts of 5W-30 Redline,the upside was the fact the filters were easy to change and were vertical,so i could fill each full and not worry about spilling any gold plated Redline

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

@Wild one turned me on to the 30-8A filter. I now run it on my single remote filter set up on my RCSB 14 RT. Well worth changing to this filter, it's bigger for sure. However it's not 22mm it's a 9/16 I think.

My RT is 8 quarts when changed and I'm about a pint over full.

 

[EdGs]

Right around 9 quarts puts it just a hair over full on the dipstick Ed. It's probably between a 1/4 and 1/2 quart over full with 9 quarts . My ass used to pucker doing an oil change on it,with 2 Royal Purple filters and 9 quarts of 5W-30 Redline,the upside was the fact the filters were easy to change and were vertical,so i could fill each full and not worry about spilling any gold plated Redline

@Wild one turned me on to the 30-8A filter. I now run it on my single remote filter set up on my RCSB 14 RT. Well worth changing to this filter, it's bigger for sure. However it's not 22mm it's a 9/16 I think.

My RT is 8 quarts when changed and I'm about a pint over full.

I'd imagine the extra oil capacity helps some for cooling.

 

[Wild one]

@Wild one turned me on to the 30-8A filter. I now run it on my single remote filter set up on my RCSB 14 RT. Well worth changing to this filter, it's bigger for sure. However it's not 22mm it's a 9/16 I think.

My RT is 8 quarts when changed and I'm about a pint over full.

3/4 - 16 is the thread pitch on them,which was what Ford and Chrysler used for many many years before switching over to the 22mm X 1.5 thread pitch filters.They're 3/4" Big

 

[Wild one]

I'd imagine the extra oil capacity helps some for cooling.

Having the filters out where airflow can get at them does make a differance,probably more then the extra oil volumn does Ed. 2 filters can get rid of alot heat when there's a decent amount of airflow over them

 

[EdGs]

@Wild one turned me on to the 30-8A filter. I now run it on my single remote filter set up on my RCSB 14 RT. Well worth changing to this filter, it's bigger for sure. However it's not 22mm it's a 9/16 I think.

My RT is 8 quarts when changed and I'm about a pint over full.

Do you by chance have a link for your setup?

 

[EdGs]

Any danger of the setup getting hit and damaged by road debris?

FL sucks for crap in the road. Tire treads, ladders, you name it. I was in heavy traffic on the interstate doing about 65 when a 30 gallon Brute garbage can came careening through the traffic.

Of course, I hit it dead-center, but fortunately it wedged under the bumper. The top of the can collapsed and went under the bumper first, and the bottom wedged under the radiator support.

Made one hell of a racket for the 30 seconds or so it took me to get over two lanes of traffic to the shoulder, and was a royal PITA to remove.

You wouldn't believe the amount of crap in the roads down here. Over by where I live, there was a 5/8 or 3/4 galvanized bolt for a power pole crossarm just laying in the middle of the road. A 12" + long bolt, no sh*t. Brand new bolt, too.

Crazy.

 

[Wild one]

Any danger of the setup getting hit and damaged by road debris?

FL sucks for crap in the road. Tire treads, ladders, you name it. I was in heavy traffic on the interstate doing about 65 when a 30 gallon Brute garbage can came careening through the traffic.

Of course, I hit it dead-center, but fortunately it wedged under the bumper. The top of the can collapsed and went under the bumper first, and the bottom wedged under the radiator support.

Made one hell of a racket for the 30 seconds or so it took me to get over two lanes of traffic to the shoulder, and was a royal PITA to remove.

You wouldn't believe the amount of crap in the roads down here. Over by where I live, there was a 5/8 or 3/4 galvanized bolt for a power pole crossarm just laying in the middle of the road. A 12" + long bolt, no sh*t. Brand new bolt, too.

Crazy.

Mine are located above the bottom of the tow hooks,so if i was worried about road debris,i could easily run a piece of steel across the tow hooks , that bolts to the bottom holes in the tow hook mounts,but i don't really worry to much about road debris here.Something like a mini skidplate could be easily fabbed up

 

[Big_Bill]

I am not trying to blaze up a mountain... Just a reasonable speed and not crawling. I do not expect to keep the speeds they have set like 50 to 65 mph. I have to slow down to 35 to 40 on a good grade.. ~3/4% grade. the temps it climbs to is beyond what I am willing to endure. The temp gauge doesn't have accurate numbers for any given temp, so it's difficult to determine the exact temps it is rising to. A couple years ago the temp got so high, my screen gave me a warning a couple times. And that was not pushing it at all. And a few months later I noticed a ticking when I started it and it was cold. That became increasingly louder resulting in having to replace my exhaust manifolds due to, I believe warpage. So I am a bit gun shy now when I see the temp rise. Anytime I pull my trailer I use the TOW/HAUL accessory. This is rated for 10k pounds and the trailer etc.. is well under that. Maybe I am expecting too much. I wasn't aware of any type of shutter system until today when I popped the hood and took a good close look at the front of the radiator. I assume that shutter system opens up at a particular temp? Honestly not familiar with it. I could use a good tutorial with that. Remove it? Crank it open full time?

Havent tried a lower temp thermostat... Guess it couldn't hurt huh? But it seems the temps rise and the thermostat is open by then... Am I wrong?

You put a motorcycle in front of me and I'm at home but haven't dug into this truck much at all. Yes I did post this a couple years ago but didn't encounter any real problematic grades last year after replacing the fan/fan clutch, just 1 that I needed to really keep my eye on the gauges. I guess a good flush is in order 1st... Then take it from there.

Not familiar with an AGS motor....?

Thanks for all your time people! I really appreciate it.

OK just watched a couple videos on the AGS and how it functions. Is that even an option to try and get this truck cooled down a bit? But it also sounds like removal will flash me a code, correct? So evidently it is operating ok since I am not seeing any unusual codes.

About the thermostat: No, a thermostat that opens earlier won't solve your problem. It's open long before it gets too hot. However,a new thermostat may not be a bad idea,since if the present one is clogged, it can restrict flow. If it's not holding pressure, it can raise temps, but you'll notice a loss of coolant, which you didn't mention.

 

[grizzstang]

I have the same truck and tow about the same weight.

I am running the stock thermostat.

IMO you should remove all the top and bottom slats in your active grill shutters.

It is easy, free and doesn't take too long. Your AGS will still work the same and it won't set off any codes. Many threads here on how to do it.

IMO opinion the shutters spend a lot of time closed when at speed and it drives the temps up until the PCM triggers them to open.

My truck runs a little cooler overall with less fluctuation and temp comes down quicker after I have it revving hard to climb hills.

I would start with this.

 

[ramffml]

About the thermostat: No, a thermostat that opens earlier won't solve your problem. It's open long before it gets too hot. However,a new thermostat may not be a bad idea,since if the present one is clogged, it can restrict flow. If it's not holding pressure, it can raise temps, but you'll notice a loss of coolant, which you didn't mention.

Yes, a thermostat WILL help. Already described why/how it works in this thread.

 

[Wild one]

About the thermostat: No, a thermostat that opens earlier won't solve your problem. It's open long before it gets too hot. However,a new thermostat may not be a bad idea,since if the present one is clogged, it can restrict flow. If it's not holding pressure, it can raise temps, but you'll notice a loss of coolant, which you didn't mention.

I've changed a $h!tload of thermostats in my 65 years,and have "Never" seen one "Clogged" as you're stating.They also don't hold pressure either,there's a bleed hole in pretty well every thermostat manufactured in the last 30 years or more.
These days if you have a thermostat that's functioning properly,you're better off leaving it alone,unless you're changing it for a lower temp thermostat,as the majority of replacement thermostats these days aren't worth a pot to p!$$ in.
BTW you should check every replacement thermostat in a pot of water on a stove before installing it,and don't be surprised if it goes south in a couple months