Cool this baby down!

[frogwash]

I have a 2017 Ram 1500 5.7L 4WD 80k miles.. with a short bed. I haul a 26' travel trailer that weighs in at 5800 pounds dry. We don't load this up with much, maybe an extra 2 to 300 pounds... no water storage while we travel. This hauls pretty nice but when I am climbing up a pass, it tends to heat up. I have to drop down to 35/40 mph to get it to cool down! I put a new fan clutch/fan (non OEM) in it last year, but it didn't seem to make a big difference. I am considering going with an electric fan (leaving the engine driven fan) and possibly a larger radiator? Anyone have experience with this issue? Should I get a forward mounted electric fan? Over-size radiator? I'm going for a good flush of the cooling system also. I'm to the point of throwing the kitchen sink at this to try to get this temp down.

Thoughts?

Thanks much.. Frank in Idaho

 

[62Blazer]

If you are at highway speeds the cooling fan really doesn't do much. The primary purpose of the fan is to provide airflow over the radiator when the truck is stopped or going slow. Think about it.........what happens if you stick your head out the window going 70 mph down the freeway versus idling through town? Just the speed of the truck on the highway forces a lot of air movement. Putting a different fan or installing an additional electric fan isn't the answer to this problem.

 

[rzr6-4]

Define "heats up". 220-230, ya that's a problem. A little over the line at 210-215, its fine as is.

A coolant flush may be in order, but spending days/weeks redesigning and replacing your coolant system --seems-- like a little more effort than if you just slow it down for a few miles once in a while.

 

[RamCares]

Hi, @frogwash! Just a little heads up, but if you elect to visit your dealership on this then please let us know via private message! We're here to be of assistance to you.

Hannah
Ram Cares

 

[crash68]

possibly a larger radiator?

There are 4-pass radiators available for these trucks on eBay.
As mentioned above, how much are you heating up and how fast are you trying to climb a grade? Might be just a matter of limiting your speed before you start to climb grades.

 

[joesstripclub]

Numbers are helpful as others mentioned. I assume you are asking about coolant? How are oil temps?

When I lived in CO, pulling my cargo trailer loaded up with SxS in my 1500 up I70 over the contintental divide (Ike Gaunlet if you watch TFL) I had oil temps hit 255 to 260 if I kept the cruise at 60, was able to slow down to keep temps from climbing higher.

 

[pgoodwin79]

Im thinking your truck may have Active Grille Shutters....have you ever thought of removing the shutters and bypassing the AGS motor? That would be full on airflow thru the grille and might solve the issue....just a suggestion i did it on my 2018 i had a while back

 

[Racer9]

It seems that this was recently discussed, but I went back 8 pages and couldn't find it.
One of the possible fixes was a lower temp thermostat.
Also making sure the radiator isn't plugged with crap both internally and externally.
I would hit tow/haul mode on those grades, raising the rpms will move more coolant and hopefully cool better.

 

[caulk04]

You're towing, temps will be above normal driving. What temps are you seeing?

 

[frogwash]

I am not trying to blaze up a mountain... Just a reasonable speed and not crawling. I do not expect to keep the speeds they have set like 50 to 65 mph. I have to slow down to 35 to 40 on a good grade.. ~3/4% grade. the temps it climbs to is beyond what I am willing to endure. The temp gauge doesn't have accurate numbers for any given temp, so it's difficult to determine the exact temps it is rising to. A couple years ago the temp got so high, my screen gave me a warning a couple times. And that was not pushing it at all. And a few months later I noticed a ticking when I started it and it was cold. That became increasingly louder resulting in having to replace my exhaust manifolds due to, I believe warpage. So I am a bit gun shy now when I see the temp rise. Anytime I pull my trailer I use the TOW/HAUL accessory. This is rated for 10k pounds and the trailer etc.. is well under that. Maybe I am expecting too much. I wasn't aware of any type of shutter system until today when I popped the hood and took a good close look at the front of the radiator. I assume that shutter system opens up at a particular temp? Honestly not familiar with it. I could use a good tutorial with that. Remove it? Crank it open full time?

Havent tried a lower temp thermostat... Guess it couldn't hurt huh? But it seems the temps rise and the thermostat is open by then... Am I wrong?

You put a motorcycle in front of me and I'm at home but haven't dug into this truck much at all. Yes I did post this a couple years ago but didn't encounter any real problematic grades last year after replacing the fan/fan clutch, just 1 that I needed to really keep my eye on the gauges. I guess a good flush is in order 1st... Then take it from there.

Not familiar with an AGS motor....?

Thanks for all your time people! I really appreciate it.

OK just watched a couple videos on the AGS and how it functions. Is that even an option to try and get this truck cooled down a bit? But it also sounds like removal will flash me a code, correct? So evidently it is operating ok since I am not seeing any unusual codes.

 

[crash68]

The temp gauge doesn't have accurate numbers for any given temp, so it's difficult to determine the exact temps it is rising to.

Even the standard EVIC in these trucks has a page to see the actual coolant, trans and oil temperatures. Use the arrow buttons on the left side of the steering wheel to change pages.

 

[Johnny Paycheck]

Define "heats up". 220-230, ya that's a problem. A little over the line at 210-215, its fine as is.

A coolant flush may be in order, but spending days/weeks redesigning and replacing your coolant system --seems-- like a little more effort than if you just slow it down for a few miles once in a while.

220-230 isn’t even a problem. It’s not like OP has pure water in his cooling system. A 50-50 coolant-water mix is good to 265F if I recall.

It seems that this was recently discussed, but I went back 8 pages and couldn't find it.
One of the possible fixes was a lower temp thermostat.
Also making sure the radiator isn't plugged with crap both internally and externally.
I would hit tow/haul mode on those grades, raising the rpms will move more coolant and hopefully cool better.

Lower temp thermostat won’t help at all. Once that t-stat opens, all bets are off. OP hasn’t mentioned how hot is hot here, but pulling at altitude with a load heavier than the truck itself may mean he has to readjust his thoughts here.

 

[ExpressRules]

Havent tried a lower temp thermostat... Guess it couldn't hurt huh? But it seems the temps rise and the thermostat is open by then... Am I wrong?

Installing a lower thermostat is not going to affect the max coolant temp you'll while driving. I see this often in the Corvette Forum I'm a member in. The C4's run "hot" (229) before the fan turns on. This was done purposely by GM and new C4 owners get scared when they see the analog gauge get close to being pegged. If they pulled up the digital gauge up in the display which shows actual temp they'd realize all is good.

The same thing can be said about your RAM. The analog gauge isn't accurate enough to use as your basis of concern. What is the actual temp that you are getting to during your climb??

 

[G-Ride990]

Installing a lower thermostat is not going to affect the max coolant temp you'll while driving. I see this often in the Corvette Forum I'm a member in. The C4's run "hot" (229) before the fan turns on. This was done purposely by GM and new C4 owners get scared when they see the analog gauge get close to being pegged. If they pulled up the digital gauge up in the display which shows actual temp they'd realize all is good.

The same thing can be said about your RAM. The analog gauge isn't accurate enough to use as your basis of concern. What is the actual temp that you are getting to during your climb??

Put a 180* Tstat in your truck and tell me it doesn't lower the max temp.

IT DOES

I understand that it shouldn't in theory but I have installed 180s in 5 trucks over the last few years. All the same. My current truck went from 220* average to high 180's low 190's average. My truck has never even seen 200 degrees after swapping the Tstat. Maybe the aftermarket ones just flow more? IDK. But it does lower the max operating temp.

Hell, for Christmas I got my dad a 180* tstat for his 2020 and we put it in a few weeks ago. Same deal there.

As for temps, just scroll down to the info page on the EVIC if you want to see exact temp numbers.

 

[Burla]

Before anyone even drives a RAM in these years you should remove grill shudders and more importantly remove thermo bypass valve (for trans), and then use a 180 t stat yes they help. Then if you have an issue, lets talk. After that you might try a water wetter, that will lower that further. Then you could consider a flush or hardware like a larger rad etc. In an immediate thing, just on trips you can lower the coolant % will also lower temps, there are a couple things to do to protect metal. Idle that down especially this time of year just like a diesel, I would be concerned about my heads if it cools too quickly.

@Hemi395 has done a lot of experimenting with towing heavy and t stat, what say you Corey?

 

[Mojo88]

I would try three simple things:
1) Lower temp stat
2) Remove some (not all) AGS shutters
3) Make sure your radiator is SQUEAKY CLEAN

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Installing a lower thermostat is not going to affect the max coolant temp you'll while driving. I see this often in the Corvette Forum I'm a member in. The C4's run "hot" (229) before the fan turns on. This was done purposely by GM and new C4 owners get scared when they see the analog gauge get close to being pegged. If they pulled up the digital gauge up in the display which shows actual temp they'd realize all is good.

The same thing can be said about your RAM. The analog gauge isn't accurate enough to use as your basis of concern. What is the actual temp that you are getting to during your climb??

My 1990 ZR1 would do that. Any small length of time not moving, and you could see the temperature gauge shoot to 3/4. Made my you know what pucker. Most vehicles have a grille while the corvette has none. It is a bottom feeder with a spoiler that directs air to the radiator. You have to be moving for any airflow at all.

 

[Racer9]

OEM t-stat is what 195-200? So when it opens as the temp is passing 200 just 30 more is pretty warm around 230.
Lower temp stat means it opens and starts cooling 10-15 cooler so 30 more isn't that bad, only 215.
I'd still start with cleaning the radiator fins first. NO PRESSURE WASHER!!!! Use a good cleaner like simple green and a low pressure garden hose, flush it good.
If it doesn't seem too dirty then try a t-stat. Also verify fan and water pump are good.

 

[Grams]

There seems to be a shot-gun approach to some of these suggestions.

New parts, especially non-OEM parts, can be failed right out-of-the-box. I.E., that fan-clutch which was replaced in post #1 “that didn’t make a difference”…. may not be operating as intended.
Viscous fan clutches engage at specified temps….and free-wheel at other times. Replacing the OEM with aftermarket is fine….but the “new” clutch should be tested (as the original should have been, instead of just an arbitrary replacement.)
How? When the engine reaches the prescribed temp and the clutch appears to be engaged….use a rag or heavy glove to protect your hands and attempt to “grab” the fan to confirm that the clutch is truly-engaged. Otherwise the new clutch/fan is not performing any “real” work.
(This sort of thing happened to me. Pulling a 5K lb travel-trailer up Guadelupe Pass the truck overheated. I pulled-over and let it cool down.
When the viscous clutch movement was restricted by my holding onto the fan blades… I could easily hold the fan stationary while the engine ran.
Replaced the clutch with a known good clutch fixed the problem for years. (But don’t assume that new parts are always good parts.)

The pre’13 model truck MAY have had the improper coolant installed. Pre ‘13 Rams used HOAT coolant, while Post ‘12 Rams used OAT. Mixing the two can create a “Gel” which can block radiator and heater-core passages. The system will have to be flushed and the proper coolant installed.

Changing to a lower-rated T-stat is poor advice. It introduces new parameters unrelated to the problem, and other engine sensors and systems will not be operating at design specs.
In other words…. Modifying the design….is not a proper repair despite that it may mask the defect.

Hope this helps.

 

[mopar68]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. I have a 2014 1500 5.7 Outdoorsman and ended up taking out both the electric fan and the clutch fan out and replacing them with the larger V6 electric fan. I also replaced the 220F Thermostat with a 180F. [Might as well flush out the cooling system] Also check to make sure there is no debris clogging on the radiator.

https://a.co/d/dqmgGf6 --- Fan
https://a.co/d/iWeKnoJ -- Thermostat