Coolant levels around 230

[bllnonu]

Hey guys just purchased 2019 ram 1500 v8....coolant levels from what I've read online are kind of high expecially while idling...roughly around 230...the fan is loud as hell and just stays on...the temp outside is around 90 degrees...dodge dealership says my radiator and thermostat need to be replaced due to radiator being clogged but I honestly don't trust dealerahips....expecially qith a newer model truck..going on a long road trip this weekend and just want to be safe...when driving the coolant temps fall to around 210 so they seem to be within range...but when sitting or going slow is what scares me....any info will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wild one]

Hey guys just purchased 2019 ram 1500 v8....coolant levels from what I've read online are kind of high expecially while idling...roughly around 230...the fan is loud as hell and just stays on...the temp outside is around 90 degrees...dodge dealership says my radiator and thermostat need to be replaced due to radiator being clogged but I honestly don't trust dealerahips....expecially qith a newer model truck..going on a long road trip this weekend and just want to be safe...when driving the coolant temps fall to around 210 so they seem to be within range...but when sitting or going slow is what scares me....any info will be greatly appreciated.

Pull the grill,drive to your local carwash,spray condensor down with a bug and tar remover,then wash the hell out of it with their high pressure soap setting,followed up with a good rinse job,just don't hold the wand right on the fins,stay back about 18" to 20" from the condensor

 

[bllnonu]

Interesting....

 

[Mojo88]

I also have '19 5.7L, purchased last year. I had very similar issues with ECT (engine coolant temp). I did a fair bit of research and discovered RAM set these engines up to run hot. The stock stat is 203*, plus truck has the AGS (active grille shutters) which will stay closed until the fan kicks on, ensuring the engine stays hot.

With a stock stat at 203*, it means 'normal' ECT will be 205-210*. And my ECT (like yours) would sometimes exceed 230* (even with ambient temp at ~30* F), which bothered the Hell out of me.

I ended up putting in a 180* stat, and that should help you a little, but won't completely solve the issue. You could remove some fins from the AGS, which will allow more air flow, and that will help as well. But you can't easily adjust the PWM fan settings, you need to get into the tune to do that (kindof a big deal, but I did it to get my cruising temps down to 185*).

Anyway, a fairly easy partial solution would be:
1) 180* stat, and,
2) Remove some AGS fins.

I would also try the suggestion from @Wild one , and with the grill off, it'd be easy to remove fins from the AGS (leaving top and bottom fins in place).

 

[Riccochet]

Temps sound normal to me. As long as they aren't over 210-212 while driving then it's doing what it was programmed to do.

 

[bllnonu]

Very good 2 know!...everything seems to be consistent while driving....and I was def. Planning to put that 180 thermostat in. I wonder if a bigger radiator would help also.

 

[crash68]

I wonder if a bigger radiator would help also.

If your think it will help with the 230° temps when idling then most likely not. The temperature climbs that high mostly due to the lack of airflow over the radiator. You would need to tune the ECM or use an external PWM controller for the cooling fan to drop that temperature spike down. Something to keep in mind that the stock ECM programming will throw a code if the engine temperature doesn't warm up fast enough, using a lower spec'd thermostat and oversized radiator could cause this CEL.
There are 4 pass radiators that fit these trucks, you can find them on eBay. They help keep the engine temps cooler if your really working the engine, especially in high ambient temperatures.

 

[Mojo88]

Very good 2 know!...everything seems to be consistent while driving....and I was def. Planning to put that 180 thermostat in. I wonder if a bigger radiator would help also.

Radiator not necessary. As stated above, it's airflow issue, combined with the 203* stat.

You can put the 180* stat in there, but that still won't solve the AGS and PWM fan settings. I resolved the AGS/PWM by purchasing a new PCM from HPTuners, plus I bought their dongle. Then I went into the tune and adjusted the fan settings lower. I watched the AGS/PWM operation carefully a bunch of times to see the exact temps that everything was activating, and it appears to me that the AGS open/close are dependent on the fan settings. That is, the AGS will open up and then within a short time the PWM fan will start to rotate. This makes sense, as it would be useless to have the fan come on when AGS are closed.

Here's a pic showing the HPTuners page on PWM fan settings: I have mine set at 190*. I've observed it to see the AGS open at ~188*, then the PWM fan comes on within 15 seconds. ECT will briefly reach 197*, then quickly lowers back to ~185*. It all seems to function perfectly, and I think the AGS are actually good to have, especially if you live in a colder climate. I've driven this way for a few months now, with no CEL or any problems at all.

 

[Wild one]

Very good 2 know!...everything seems to be consistent while driving....and I was def. Planning to put that 180 thermostat in. I wonder if a bigger radiator would help also.

If you're not planning on tuning it,a 192 thermostat might be a better option to look at.It won't throw any codes,and your stock fan settings will still work.But that won't cure your high temps at idle with-out tuning it for lower fan on/off temps.

 

[stevieb92]

In my truck I noticed high temps when sitting in stopped traffic like the OP observed. At highway speeds the temps come back down to around 210-215 ish. I believe my truck had a 205 thermostat from factory. I put in a 180 thermostat and the temps when sitting in stopped traffic are still up near 220 ish, but when running at highway speeds the temps are down to around 185-190 ish. It also helps to have the A/C on to run the fan more, but the biggest culprit to solve the high temps during sitting in stopped traffic is to change the temp setting when the fan kicks on. From what I've learned can only be done with a tune like others have mentioned.

I also wonder if the higher temps these engines run at have an impact on battery life. As we all know, batteries don't like heat.

 

[Tyler_01]

Just did my oil change on my new to me 2001 Dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9 gas close the hood after adding some oil went around the block wanted to come back to check it because I didn’t like the sound my motor was making lol now my hood won’t open. The latch is just not working at all. I already tried the coat hanger trick. The thing under the hood lifts up, but the hood will not open. What do I do?

 

[Flryder]

Get an infrared temperature gun and check the radiator to ensure it is not clogged.

 

[rayman360]

I had a similar issue and did the same as what most others have suggested. I popped in a 180 thermostat, removed all but the very top and bottom grille shutters, and I had to install the electric fan in mine, since I had the old clutch fan. My temp would constantly fluctuate because of the grille shutters and no air flow. Once I did these three mods it stays at a constant 185 almost all the time. If I'm in slow traffic it might climb to 192 or so before the fan kicks in and pulls it right back down. But since the grille shutters were removed, it doesn't fluctuate like crazy anymore. Doesn't throw any codes due to the temp, or anything else. I did go with a tune though for performance reasons so got the fan to kick on around the 192 range. Been running great. Here are a few videos if interesting. Good luck with yours!

RAM Hemi Electric V-6 Fan conversion - Freeing up Horsepower!

Starting to get into some more horsepower related mods, and decided to tackle the cooling first. Wanted to remove the heavy clutch driven fan from the water...

youtu.be

2009-2018 4th Gen RAM Active Grille Shutter (AGS) Delete/Removal

Part 2 of my cooling upgrade. In a previous video I installed the RAM V-6 electric fan mod and everything is working great. There are a few other things to...

youtu.be

RAM Hemi Mishimoto 180 degree performance thermostat upgrade for the 5.7

Installing the @mishimoto 180 degree performance thermostat in my 2017 RAM Hemi Sport. We did the v-6 electric fan upgrade and felt like we needed to do a f...

youtu.be

 

[Riccochet]

Just know the v6 e-fan conversion is not recommended for towing. It doesn't pull enough air to cool the 5.7 under heavy load for extended periods.

It's fine if all you are doing is chasing performance.

 

[rabbit_season]

I just did the AGS mod - removing all but the top and bottom shutters to preserve the actuator and prevent check engine lights. The coolant temperature stays consistent, and the AC works better too. I used to notice it fade in and out, must have been due to the restricted airflow. I recently flushed my 10 year old original coolant as well, and cleaned the system. Original radiator seems to be hanging in there. The AGS mod made a huge difference in keeping the coolant temp even. I wish there was a summer/winter switch for the grill shutters!

 

[ExpressRules]

I have a C4 Corvette (95) and it is a topic that comes up constantly in the CorvetteForum I'm in by owners that purchased a C4 get scared to death when they see the analog coolant gauge get close to ******* as they sit at a light. Yesterday in 96 degree heat mine stayed between 187 to 190 while cruising and 230 at a light. Once fan turns on slowly drops back down.

They don't realize that the fan(s) don't even turn on until temp gets to 228 - 230. Chevy did that for emissions reasons. But that doesn't mean that issues don't occur. The front of the C4 acts as a scoop that can direct any debris such as dirt and leaves right to the front of the radiator causing overheating problems.

While the Rams don't have the same issue I'd first check the radiator fins for blockage and then see if the coolant needed to be flushed.

 

[Dusty]

I have a C4 Corvette (95) and it is a topic that comes up constantly in the CorvetteForum I'm in by owners that purchased a C4 get scared to death when they see the analog coolant gauge get close to ******* as they sit at a light. Yesterday in 96 degree heat mine stayed between 187 to 190 while cruising and 230 at a light. Once fan turns on slowly drops back down.

They don't realize that the fan(s) don't even turn on until temp gets to 228 - 230. Chevy did that for emissions reasons. But that doesn't mean that issues don't occur. The front of the C4 acts as a scoop that can direct any debris such as dirt and leaves right to the front of the radiator causing overheating problems.

While the Rams don't have the same issue I'd first check the radiator fins for blockage and then see if the coolant needed to be flushed.

...which makes me wonder if there's a set point in the PCM that can be adjusted to have the fans come on at a lower temperature.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 132524 miles.